slow pee stream coming from motor

cool change

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thank u guys i really apprciate ur help .. I am going to purchase that id meter, and give it a try , and check the upper hose leading past the pee hole.. Im really trying at any cost not to pull the lower unit again , because the marina charges 150 buck for a pull out being i dont have a trailor.. I am just hoping it is not anything MAJOR !! I will diff keep u updated
 

seasick

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cool change said:
thank u guys i really apprciate ur help .. I am going to purchase that id meter, and give it a try , and check the upper hose leading past the pee hole.. Im really trying at any cost not to pull the lower unit again , because the marina charges 150 buck for a pull out being i dont have a trailor.. I am just hoping it is not anything MAJOR !! I will diff keep u updated

Good luck. Let us know how it goes
 

DennisG01

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Good luck, Cool.

Food for thought... Can you beach the boat at high tide and then drop the lower as the tide goes out? Should give you plenty of time.
 

cool change

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alright guys here is the verdict. Decided to pull my boat out of the water, [borrowed a friends trailor]. pulled lower unit and retraced my steps when i changed the water pump.. believe it or not the little metal key, I forgot the name of it, was not pushed down all the way. i tapped it down all the way slide the impeller over it put it all back together and boom STRONG STREAM AGAIN.. Now i dont know if that was it, or maybe when i put it all back together something else was not sitting right but its strong again
 

seasick

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cool change said:
alright guys here is the verdict. Decided to pull my boat out of the water, [borrowed a friends trailor]. pulled lower unit and retraced my steps when i changed the water pump.. believe it or not the little metal key, I forgot the name of it, was not pushed down all the way. i tapped it down all the way slide the impeller over it put it all back together and boom STRONG STREAM AGAIN.. Now i dont know if that was it, or maybe when i put it all back together something else was not sitting right but its strong again

I don't see how that was possible. The key is oval on one side and the groove on the driveshaft is cut as an oval. The key can only seat one way. If not seated correctly the impeller wont slide over the key.

So if you could actually slide the key into the groove in the impeller, something is very wrong.
 

DennisG01

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I'm glad you got it peeing well, again. But I agree with Seasick. I can't imagine how you would get the impeller back down the shaft and fully seated unless (1) the key (woodruff) was in the proper position or it was (2) totally out of position. But, if #2 was the reason, then it would have been VERY obvious that it wasn't in the right position since it would be extending past the impeller housing. And then, when the shaft started spinning, the key would have been totally launched away from the shaft.

You removed the housing to get at the key/impeller, right? I can't imagine any other way of doing it. I suspect that you may have had the impeller spun the wrong way inside the housing.
 

Fishtales

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Muffs always seem to have less pressure. Run her and watch the temp indicator. Run her up and observe the stream.
 

cool change

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The woodruff key can only go so far and it stops. also it sits alittle higher than the shaft.. when i installed the key i guess i didnt tap it down all the way. when i looked at it the key was still in the grove of the shaft but not all the way down , so i tap it back down until it stopped and was sitting alittle higher than the shaft if that makes sence
 

seasick

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cool change said:
The woodruff key can only go so far and it stops. also it sits alittle higher than the shaft.. when i installed the key i guess i didnt tap it down all the way. when i looked at it the key was still in the grove of the shaft but not all the way down , so i tap it back down until it stopped and was sitting alittle higher than the shaft if that makes sence

Tapping it down makes sense but what doesn't is if it weren't seated all the way into the groove, you should not have been able to slide the impeller over it. It may be possible ( although I don't see clearly how) that the impeller didn't slip over the key at all but that would make the impeller sit too high and the housing should not have fit over it.
Whatever it was, hopefully all is OK now.
 

cool change

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I agree with u seasick... I was really thinking about it. could it be possible that the shaft is worn were the key slides ,and the key does not fit tight and works its way out when the pump is operating
 

DennisG01

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You mentioned "it's sits a little higher than the shaft", as if you weren't sure that was a good thing. On the contrary, that is exactly what it is supposed to be like. That's how it "keys" into that groove in the impeller. I'm still not sure if you removed the impeller or not to "tap" the key into position. I can't see how you can do it any other way, though. But I'm coming back to, again, that most likely the impeller was installed in the wrong direction the first time. As I mentioned above, if the key WASN'T making contact with the impeller (if it was vertically higher than the impeller)... for one, you definitely would have noticed (or should have). And, two, as soon as you started the engine up, the key would have flung away.

I HIGHLY doubt the slot that the key fits into is worn like you're thinking. Like above, you would have noticed something like that. Besides, the IMPELLER "center" would have to be the one that was extremely worn for the key to slide out. But even that, that's pretty much something that will never happen.
 

Ky Grady

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DennisG01 said:
As I mentioned above, if the key WASN'T making contact with the impeller (if it was vertically higher than the impeller)... for one, you definitely would have noticed (or should have). And, two, as soon as you started the engine up, the key would have flung away.

I HIGHLY doubt the slot that the key fits into is worn like you're thinking. Like above, you would have noticed something like that. Besides, the IMPELLER "center" would have to be the one that was extremely worn for the key to slide out. But even that, that's pretty much something that will never happen.

Do the older OX motors not have the nylon/metal collar that sits right above the impeller? No way the key could come up vertically higher than impeller. Again, the older motors might not have that collar. I did notice OP said he tapped the key back in to place, so must not have the collar.

I doubt the impeller center was worn as it was a new impeller, and if the shaft was worn that bad, it should have been noticeable.

My thoughts are with improper install, i.e.: fins going in wrong direction. To seat the WP housing, the shaft needs to be rotated clockwise while pushing down on housing to have fins going in proper direction to pump water.

Anyway, you have it pumping again so all is good.
 

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I know this sounds a little crazy, but i have found that when you intend to run on the muffs, you have to "prime" the cooling system first. This works like a charm on my F225s. Put the hose on the flushout connection and let it run until it starts peeing (keep the motor vertical). Then as quickly as possible, transfer the hose to the muffs. Then start her up. My mechanic didn't believe me on this and ended up scorching the water pump at his expense!
 

cool change

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thank you.. I dont think you could install the impeller wrong, it has a slot and could only go on one way
 

DennisG01

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cool change said:
thank you.. I dont think you could install the impeller wrong, it has a slot and could only go on one way

By "the wrong way", we're referring to the direction you rotate/bend the blades as it's installed in the cup.
 

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New Yamaha deluxe kit installed April after twenty trips out OH alarm ,towed in by Boat US ran the boat at the dock no OH at idle 30 minutes 2000 rpms no OH ,back to idle OH ,I was convinced it was the Poppet valve . Replaced started engine idle five minutes OH ,towed to ramp trailered home .
This was my second WP install 98 175 hp Yamaha saltwater first was three years old and in perfect shape,went extremely easy easier than the first . AT Home ran on ears 25 minutes no OH ,removed lower unit turned the shaft and felt a clunk each turn ,removed the impeller found it had some how was jumping in and out of the keyway I guess sometimes it caught the pump would work once it was out the shaft was spinning around and the pump was not working causing the overheat ,I found a split at the base of the impeller at the grove is why it jumped out or was it caused by spinning around a few thousand times .Replacing the impeller today .
 

seasick

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steveditt said:
New Yamaha deluxe kit installed April after twenty trips out OH alarm ,towed in by Boat US ran the boat at the dock no OH at idle 30 minutes 2000 rpms no OH ,back to idle OH ,I was convinced it was the Poppet valve . Replaced started engine idle five minutes OH ,towed to ramp trailered home .
This was my second WP install 98 175 hp Yamaha saltwater first was three years old and in perfect shape,went extremely easy easier than the first . AT Home ran on ears 25 minutes no OH ,removed lower unit turned the shaft and felt a clunk each turn ,removed the impeller found it had some how was jumping in and out of the keyway I guess sometimes it caught the pump would work once it was out the shaft was spinning around and the pump was not working causing the overheat ,I found a split at the base of the impeller at the grove is why it jumped out or was it caused by spinning around a few thousand times .Replacing the impeller today .
What is being said about the curve of the impeller is that you have to bend the vanes or push and rotate the drive shaft to get the vanes to bend. You have to rotate in the correct direction or the vanes will bend backwards and can bind or break.
To determine the correct direction take the cowling off and looking down at the flywheel, kick the starter and note the direction that the flywheel turns. At the moment, I cant remember which way it turns (CW maybe) but whatever it is, you need to rotate the drive shaft the same direction while looking down at the LU. As you rotate, you can may need to bend the vanes to make sure they go in the correct direction. It may take a bit of an effort to get all the vanes fitted correctly but this step is critical. Some folks swear that if you bend the vanes the wrong direction, they will flip when you run the motor. I don't buy that theory. I believe that the impeller can get mangled.
I assume you also have the collar and nylon bushing installed on the shaft. If you didn't replace it, you should since it is often difficult to remove it without damaging it. Same goes for the spring washers.
 

steveditt

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clockwise is the direction I've seen ,watched a youtube video today by Marine tech tools before starting the replacement two things he emphasized ,centering and setting of the woodruff key and he uses a special tool to set the spacer and retaining collar both things I don't remember doing . April installation went very easy woodruff key ,impeller slide right down no hammering ,set the veins clockwise turning the shaft . It lasted twenty trips then the impeller would catch the grove and the water pump worked fine a few minutes later slip and the shaft would spin around jumping in and out of the grove .

My woodfuff key was on a slight angle and the retaining collar slide right off completely different then the one I had removed in April which I installed three years ago .

Was the split on the bottom of the impelled the cause ,I did the work and thought I did everything correct until todays video ,If centering and setting the key and setting the retainer is critical then its on me ,
 

Ky Grady

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Clockwise is correct for shaft rotation while seating the WP housing.
 

cool change

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that is what I'm saying. the woodruff key was not seated properly when I looked at it.. since I secured it pee stream has been strong again.. go figure !!