my new to me 1995 192 with 1995 150 Yamaha was running good but last part of the day sunday it started like it was starving for fuel, never cut off and the bulb was sucked flat. previous had the fuel line from the new spin on filter housing to motor replaced. I checked the anti siphon valve and it seem to be ok. there is old fuel line between the tank and the filter housing. it comes out of the tank a few feet and passes threw the bilge compartment. when it goes threw the made sort of a loop in the fuel line. look original from the factory because you cant hardly get to it and it is secured with straps. anyone know why the would do this?
grady white 192 fuel line
- Thread starter b-dog
- Start date
Sounds like your vent may have gotten plugged. If it happens again, loosen the fuel fill, and see if you hear air rush in, and if the problem is solved.
I agree that it does sound like the vent. I did not try loosening the cap while it was acting up but I did take it loose at the tank last night and blew threw it and it seemed
Clear.
Clear.
journeyman
GreatGrady Captain
A friend of mine told me a story the other day. It may be useful, may not. He was running his new to him Wellcraft and one of his motors stalled at low idle. It restarted fine but when he went to fuel up, the gas cap was very hard to open. When he finally got it, he heard air suck into the tank. He thought the vent was clogged and it turned out it wasn't. He suspected the cap as it vented through it and bought a new one to replace it. When he was changing caps he noticed the old one had a gasket above the O-ring that wasn't on the new one. Turns out that the previous owner added this little feature and it was partially blocking the vents built into the cap.
Could be blocked vent or collapsed hose as you suggested. Other less common but possible reasons are bad anti-siphon valve ( tough to test it) or blockage of the pickup tube. Sometimes something gets in the tank like a liner from an additive bottle cap or a leaf. Eventually it may get sucked up against the pickup tube.b-dog said:
The first test as mentioned is to remove the fuel cap to see if the problem goes away.
Easiest next step is to replace the fuel line from the tank to the filter assuming the line from the filter to the motor is good. The hoses should be rated for ethanol fuel. If not, they can decompose inside.
Good luck
I had exactly the same symptons on my 192 with an Evinrude 150 and flattened bulb. After checking the hoses, fuel pickup, replace bulb ect. the problem was clogged vent. Mud wasp had plugged up the vent.
Update: seems that the sceen in the 90 deg fitting in the top if the tank was clogged
Now the 1995 yamaha 150. It will not turn but about 4600 rpm. Does not seem to be ruining very rough. But it think that it may not be firing on 1 cylinder. Just an idea. Should the v6 150. Still mostly run decent if it was not firing on 1 cylinder? Any other ideas?
Now the 1995 yamaha 150. It will not turn but about 4600 rpm. Does not seem to be ruining very rough. But it think that it may not be firing on 1 cylinder. Just an idea. Should the v6 150. Still mostly run decent if it was not firing on 1 cylinder? Any other ideas?
This "It will not turn but about 4600 rpm" seems to state that it ONLY turns at 4,600, nothing else? Or, would I be correct in assuming that you mean it won't turn OVER 4,600? Going on that assumption...
First, and most logical thought, is that during fixing the other issue, you didn't put everything back together properly (connectors, etc) or caused an electrical connector break (possibly just partially). I would start by double checking everything.
You can hold the spark plug next to the block to see if it sparks (or use a spark checker). Or remove the plug wire while the engine is running to see if it causes a difference in running attitude. If it does, obviously it's normally firing. If it doesn't change, then double check for spark and find out why it's not firing.
Pull all plugs and check condition. Post pics if you want.
First, and most logical thought, is that during fixing the other issue, you didn't put everything back together properly (connectors, etc) or caused an electrical connector break (possibly just partially). I would start by double checking everything.
You can hold the spark plug next to the block to see if it sparks (or use a spark checker). Or remove the plug wire while the engine is running to see if it causes a difference in running attitude. If it does, obviously it's normally firing. If it doesn't change, then double check for spark and find out why it's not firing.
Pull all plugs and check condition. Post pics if you want.
Although I used to do the 'put the plug wire with a screwdriver next to metal to see if there is an arc ' method, Yamaha warns against that practice. Apparently if the plug wire fires into no load like when the wire is not close enough to a ground, the coil can be damaged. It is safer and easier to but a spark checker. You can get a inexpensive one at Harbor Freight and it woks fine for the occasional use type of mechanic.DennisG01 said:
In general It is not a good idea to rev a motor not in gear to high revs but in this case, trying that to see if more revs can be reached may help eliminate a few things, mostly sensor or spark.
The method I was referring to, in regards to checking for spark, is to keep the spark plug in the boot, and touch the plug base directly to metal - much harder to mess that up. But, I don't disagree with you that what Yamaha said has a "chance" of happening.
The same general rule applies when doing a compression test - you're supposed to disable the ignition. However, in real life, I know of plenty of guys who have never disabled the ignition for a comp test and had no issues. BUT, I've been quoted many times saying "Just because it hasn't happened, doesn't mean it can't". So I will apply my own words of advice here and say the same thing - just because those guys didn't have an issue, doesn't mean it can't happen.
The same general rule applies when doing a compression test - you're supposed to disable the ignition. However, in real life, I know of plenty of guys who have never disabled the ignition for a comp test and had no issues. BUT, I've been quoted many times saying "Just because it hasn't happened, doesn't mean it can't". So I will apply my own words of advice here and say the same thing - just because those guys didn't have an issue, doesn't mean it can't happen.
yesterday I hook the hose up and removed 1 wire a time and could not tell any difference in the way it ran. took it to the lake and ran and removed 1 plug wire at a time and found that the middle cylinder on the right side made no difference when I removed it. I then swapped spark plugs and it did not follow the plug so it should not be the plug. they are also new. when I remove and install the plug wire while idling I can hear it sparking. could it be the coil breaking down under a load? maybe the carb. not sure if it is working. when I take the plug out it is oily. last night I also checked compression on all cylinders and got 90 psi give or take a few but was very consistant.
yes I did mean that the max RPM was 4600
yes I did mean that the max RPM was 4600
Re: grady white 192 fuel lineasv
Today I swapped the coil from the cylinder that was not working to another and the same thing. Same cylider. Sound like it was to be the carb
Today I swapped the coil from the cylinder that was not working to another and the same thing. Same cylider. Sound like it was to be the carb