Getting ready to install my new fuel tank

ekalb · Apr 9, 2013

I ordered a 93 gallon tank from FMT (GW customer service told me to use them) which arrived a few months ago. I am going to take the shrinkwrap off the boat in the next few days and try and tackle the replacement myself.

I have searched and found a few thread on here about this procedure, but nothing with my specific boat (1984 24' tournament). I'm sure its a similar setup to some others out there though, so I have a general idea.

Any tips, tricks, or prep materials that I should know about ahead of time? I'm just looking for some helpful hints from anyone who has done this job. I'm feeling a little overwhelmed just thinking about the project and am trying to ease my mind a bit

thanks!

Pez Vela · Apr 9, 2013

The tank should be easy (with two people), it's replacing the fuel fill line that may be problematic. If it appears difficult to remove once you open the fuel compartment, post a picture of what you're dealing with. Some cutting may be required.

ekalb · Apr 9, 2013

Thanks,Pez

Are there 2x4's that need to be replaced that hold the tank in place? I read some threads that say there are an others that don't mention a thing about it. If so, what type of lumber do I need to use as a replacement? I have read using PT lumber is a no no.

Pez Vela · Apr 9, 2013

If you scroll down a ways on this old thread viewtopic.php?t=8357&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0, you should be able to see some pics of my fuel tank replacement. That should be worth a few thousand words I suppose. We mostly used 2x2's I believe, but be ready to make a trip to Home Depot. What you can't see too well is how the lumber braces the tank all the way around by slipping a thin piece of wood down along all sides. Most of this was done by my tank fabricator as I watched. I painted the wood and added the rubber strips to create a nice snug fit with the hatch.

Action_Jackson · Apr 9, 2013

Why would PT 2x4 be a problem? I don't know what else you would use because i'd certainly want some kind of waterproof coating on waterever wood goes under deck it is going to be susceptible to moisture.

family affair · Apr 9, 2013

Pt lumber eats aluminum. Been there, done that.

ekalb · Apr 9, 2013

Pez Vela said:
If you scroll down a ways on this old thread viewtopic.php?t=8357&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0, you should be able to see some pics of my fuel tank replacement. That should be worth a few thousand words I suppose. We mostly used 2x2's I believe, but be ready to make a trip to Home Depot. What you can't see too well is how the lumber braces the tank all the way around by slipping a thin piece of wood down along all sides. Most of this was done by my tank fabricator as I watched. I painted the wood and added the rubber strips to create a nice snug fit with the hatch.

Awesome!

Thats the one thread I seem to have missed!

Thank You!

ekalb · Apr 10, 2013

Question on the stern side of my tank connections.

What is the screw/nut for? I can't figure out what would screw into that spot, if anything? Possibly a drain if I were trying to drain it?

Lower left

E09E7DD0-6425-4FA2-B474-5E4C9E5718F0-1170-000001A054160DBD_zpse8650e48.jpg

Pez Vela · Apr 10, 2013

Maybe for a pressure test? http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl ... KmcN75445w

ekalb · Apr 10, 2013

Or possibly if I had two outboards as opposed to the single one I have?

gw204 · Apr 11, 2013

ekalb said:
Or possibly if I had two outboards as opposed to the single one I have?

That's exactly what it's for.

Tim67580 · Apr 11, 2013

I have my floor covers pulled up as on my 1984 Grady White Tournament 22 as I type. I have 2x4's galore under my floor hatches, and some homemade bracing which tells me next winter I will be learning to fiberglass and re-coring both covers. I am curious if you don't/cant use PT (which I now know better), what coating would be best for a standard 2x4 to keep rot at bay as it is an inherently moist area no matter how well you caulk the floor and how often you replace the deck plate O-rings.

Also I would like to say I spent the better part of last weekend trying every which way I could to replace the fuel fill and vent lines and I am convinced that it cannot be done without cutting into the floor under the helm area. I have the scrapes and bruises on my upper arms to prove it. However if someone can prove me wrong, I will gladly admit defeat if they document how to do this on these boats.

I will be glad to help in anyway I can. If you need specific pictures you can email me twn8587@gmail.com

This boat has been in my family for 10+ years and I have taken ownership on it about a year ago. So I have spent quite a bit of time becoming aquinted with it. Recent projects were full rewire, fuel line replacement, new motor, teak restoration.

Future projects include gas tank cover re-core, and eventually new transom. The transom is sold in its current state, and scuppers are still above waterline however is known to be wet inside.

Tim67580 · Apr 11, 2013

I have my floor covers pulled up as on my 1984 Grady White Tournament 22 as I type. I have 2x4's galore under my floor hatches, and some homemade bracing which tells me next winter I will be learning to fiberglass and re-coring both covers. I am curious if you don't/cant use PT (which I now know better), what coating would be best for a standard 2x4 to keep rot at bay as it is an inherently moist area no matter how well you caulk the floor and how often you replace the deck plate O-rings.

Also I would like to say I spent the better part of last weekend trying every which way I could to replace the fuel fill and vent lines and I am convinced that it cannot be done without cutting into the floor under the helm area. I have the scrapes and bruises on my upper arms to prove it. However if someone can prove me wrong, I will gladly admit defeat if they document how to do this on these boats.

I will be glad to help in anyway I can. If you need specific pictures you can email me twn8587@gmail.com

This boat has been in my family for 10+ years and I have taken ownership on it about a year ago. So I have spent quite a bit of time becoming aquinted with it. Recent projects were full rewire, fuel line replacement, new motor, teak restoration.

Future projects include gas tank cover re-core, and eventually new transom. The transom is sold in its current state, and scuppers are still above waterline however is known to be wet inside.

ekalb · Apr 11, 2013

Thanks Tim!

I think I am going to get going with this project on monday, so I am sure plenty of questions will pop up on my end.

I read a few threads where some cutting was required to get the fill line out. I never saw pictures of what was actually cut, but I know its not completely unusual to have to go that route.

That link that Pex posted shows someone using Azek trim boards for bracing and support, which seems like a decent idea to me and probably the route I will go. I don't know how to fiberglass 2x'4's and dont really want this to be the area where I teach myself, so I think Azek is a good option (unless someone has strong feelings to the contrary).

ekalb · Apr 11, 2013

While I am up to my neck taking the boat apart, should I put a fuel flow meter in? Better question, can I put it in with my motor setup or is it too old?

thoughts or brands worth looking at?

family affair · Apr 11, 2013

As for 2x4' s, composite deck boards could be an option that will be close.

Aftermarket flow meters exist that are a fraction of the outrageously priced oem units.

ROBERTH · Apr 12, 2013

I used PVC board instead of wood. No rot and easy to work with. Can even glue up pieces together with PVC glue to make it thicker and I also used SS deck screws to ensure the glue did not fail down the road as well as used these screws to secure to stringers.

Take some time to read Dale Pescoe's article on how to coat your tank and use pvc strips on the bottom. Never use rubber strips against the aluminum as the carbon will deteriorate the aluminium, etc.

Lots of articles on coating tank with Coal tar Epoxy to keep aluminum safe long term. I have some posts on THT and here I think as well. Just don't have the time now to go retrieve the links for you but should be easy enough to find searching for Coal Tar Epoxy.

ekalb · Apr 12, 2013

ROBERTH said:
I used PVC board instead of wood. No rot and easy to work with. Can even glue up pieces together with PVC glue to make it thicker and I also used SS deck screws to ensure the glue did not fail down the road as well as used these screws to secure to stringers.

Take some time to read Dale Pescoe's article on how to coat your tank and use pvc strips on the bottom. Never use rubber strips against the aluminum as the carbon will deteriorate the aluminium, etc.

Lots of articles on coating tank with Coal tar Epoxy to keep aluminum safe long term. I have some posts on THT and here I think as well. Just don't have the time now to go retrieve the links for you but should be easy enough to find searching for Coal Tar Epoxy.

Thanks Robert

When I ordered the tank from FMT (OEM Grady Manufacturer that GW told me to go with), they said to skip coating it. They themselves didnt charge all that much to do it, so I was actually really gung ho about having them coat it before they shipped it to me and they seemed to hard sell me on avoiding it. I'm not fully sure as to why, but they made it sound unnecessary.

It certainly feels like something I should do, but that advice from them has me pretty torn on the topic.

ROBERTH · Apr 12, 2013

My 20' 1986 Renken I had to restore rotten stringers. When I pulled the tank in 2004ish, it had some deep pitting, but only in the areas where the rubber supports were touching the aluminum surface.
I pulled my tanks on the Grady last year and after 20 years, same thing on them. But, there were other spots overall, but basically from dirt buildup that could not be cleaned off. The aluminum could not breath as it needs to do to naturally protect itself from what I have learned about aluminum.

I found the link and sorry, but had the surveryor's name wrong. It is David Pascoe. Here is his link in regards to tanks and many others have said the same as he does. http://www.yachtsurvey.com/fueltank.htm.

Installation of the PVC on the bottom using 5200 was easy enough and made a lot of sense to seal out the air and not allow any rubber to touch the aluminum.
Coating the tank outside of this is probably good for 15 years or so is my guess, so you can make the call from there.

ekalb · Apr 15, 2013

Ok, the deck plate is off, 3 sections of supports are off, and I hand pumped 25 gallons of gas out.

Now how the heck do I remove this thing? It's wedged in really tightly. I think I either need to trim some fiberglass up front or remove the two 2x4 supports towards the stern. I'm leaning towards removing the supports because even with the fiberglass trimmed its still wedged in so tight.

Any suggestions?

55065CFD-970F-4374-B2AF-80DB94D50C5B-1691-0000020652318356_zpsb183de71.jpg

Fiberglass that may need to be trimmed

1717B151-2CB7-44B5-8AA1-4C1C77528181-1691-0000020673EF03C1_zps9c0e70c7.jpg

Supports that I think should be removed but I'm not sure how that's going to happen

F3FA4736-1AA4-47BF-A2C7-DE98783F10EF-1691-00000206889A4397_zpsf0a009fd.jpg

Getting ready to install my new fuel tank

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