92 Yamaha 130 alarm problems

Tatt00z · Mar 16, 2017

I'm looking at a 1992 Mako 20 to crab the bay with.
"The motor has a problem I believe is minor, but have not figured out yet. will run around all day idle 1000 1500 rpm but when I open it up the alarm sounds and it goes into limp mode. Thermostats and coolant sensors have been replaced, so it is either the impeller (less than 20 hours on) or oil tank sensor"

That's the owners description. Is this worth pursuing? I asked which alarm flashed on gauge, and he said neither oil or overheat.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Glen

seasick · Mar 17, 2017

Tatt00z said:
I'm looking at a 1992 Mako 20 to crab the bay with.
"The motor has a problem I believe is minor, but have not figured out yet. will run around all day idle 1000 1500 rpm but when I open it up the alarm sounds and it goes into limp mode. Thermostats and coolant sensors have been replaced, so it is either the impeller (less than 20 hours on) or oil tank sensor"

That's the owners description. Is this worth pursuing? I asked which alarm flashed on gauge, and he said neither oil or overheat.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Glen

An oil issue is the first place to look . That should be easy to do, just run the motor with the cowling off until it goes into limp mode and then take a look at the main oil tank (the one on the motor). If the oil level is low you have an issue most likely with the remote oil pump, filter or plumbing. I doubt it is a sensor.

The impeller could be shot and not pumping enough water but that is not all that easy to check. A look at the pee stream at speed may help assuming there is one at idle.
Unfortunately there are other things more serious: The worst case is an exhaust leak into the cooling system. Perhaps there is a flow restriction due to salt buildup. The t-stats even though replaced may be bad or installed backwards.
If it turns out that the oil pumping is the issue, that's fixable but if that isn't the problem, I personally would stay away from the deal unless the seller has and show proof that the problem was identified and repaired

It is relatively easy to disable an alarm ( that's my NY skepticism talking) and mask a problem.

Harpoon · Mar 17, 2017

Check compression..... Then

You should be able to determine whether its an overheat or an oil by you gauges... no ?

There is a poppet valve that allows water flow into the system at the back/lower section of the power head. That little ball valve can get dirty, corroded etc. and obstruct water flow. Pull that out and clean it and replace. This is a common source of overheating problems that even some dealers overlook. I had the issue on a 99 OX66 Yam, as did many others.

The other possibility with an older motor too, is your water jacket is loaded with scale and oxidation, preventing good transfer of heat into the cooling water. If this is suspected you can run your motor in a barrel filled with a descaling solution for a while.

seasick · Mar 18, 2017

Harpoon said:
Check compression..... Then

You should be able to determine whether its an overheat or an oil by you gauges... no ?

There is a poppet valve that allows water flow into the system at the back/lower section of the power head. That little ball valve can get dirty, corroded etc. and obstruct water flow. Pull that out and clean it and replace. This is a common source of overheating problems that even some dealers overlook. I had the issue on a 99 OX66 Yam, as did many others.

The other possibility with an older motor too, is your water jacket is loaded with scale and oxidation, preventing good transfer of heat into the cooling water. If this is suspected you can run your motor in a barrel filled with a descaling solution for a while.

I am not sure that a clogged poppet valve will cause overheating . The valve normally opens under higher water pressure/volume. Often the valve gets stuck open. What that does is cause low water flow at low speeds and resulting overheating. If the valve is stuck open at high speed, it makes no difference.

Tatt00z · Mar 18, 2017

Thanks for all your excellent advice, Went down today with my mechanic, he did compression, 115 on all cylinders, Boat was very clean and kept on a lift, Motor started right up, stream was good and strong, mechanic had him run it for approx., 25 minutes, heat gun showed no hot spots, and he liked what he saw, and is convinced it is an easy fix. So we bought the boat today, just need to owner to get it on the trailer, then we are golden. The owner claimed that the problem started after a friend adjusted the linkage for the oil injection system, so my mechanic will start there, and hopefully solve the problem. Thanks again friends.

seasick · Mar 19, 2017

Tatt00z said:
Thanks for all your excellent advice, Went down today with my mechanic, he did compression, 115 on all cylinders, Boat was very clean and kept on a lift, Motor started right up, stream was good and strong, mechanic had him run it for approx., 25 minutes, heat gun showed no hot spots, and he liked what he saw, and is convinced it is an easy fix. So we bought the boat today, just need to owner to get it on the trailer, then we are golden. The owner claimed that the problem started after a friend adjusted the linkage for the oil injection system, so my mechanic will start there, and hopefully solve the problem. Thanks again friends.

Good luck, Let us know how it goes

Tatt00z · Mar 26, 2017

Good afternoon folks, I got the boat home Friday night, trailer problems delayed it, but that a different subject. Anyways, when I took the cowling off Saturday moring I noticed the oil bottle was a little below halfway between the lines. I took the feed hose off from the main oil tank and used the manual pump switch on motor and oil took a while to come out and when it did it was only dripping sporadically, so I hoped up a spare I had and it really came out like a garden hose. So I figured I was onto something. Took the boat out of the creek approximately a mile no problems. Once we hit the jetty mashed the throttle boat got up on plane quickly, ran out to 83a at 4700 rpm, motor never skipped a beat, no alarms at all. Came back in at 2300 rpm motor ran great. Called the previous owner and he said within minutes of running at cruise speed it would sound an alarm and go into limp mode. So it seems maybe the oil pump or the filter was to blame. I just switched out the tanks and everything looks great. My only concern is that when I start motor, on the gauges you have a red yellow and a green, The triangle pointer stay at the yellow, which has a pic of oil can. Both the remote and the main oil tanks are full. Could the float on the main oil tank be stuck? When I pull the float out of tank, the alarm sounds , but does it stay at yellow if it is close to empty, then go into limp mode once it drops below half? Thanks for any and all advice. What else could make the oil light stay on?

seasick · Mar 26, 2017

Tatt00z said:
Good afternoon folks, I got the boat home Friday night, trailer problems delayed it, but that a different subject. Anyways, when I took the cowling off Saturday moring I noticed the oil bottle was a little below halfway between the lines. I took the feed hose off from the main oil tank and used the manual pump switch on motor and oil took a while to come out and when it did it was only dripping sporadically, so I hoped up a spare I had and it really came out like a garden hose. So I figured I was onto something. Took the boat out of the creek approximately a mile no problems. Once we hit the jetty mashed the throttle boat got up on plane quickly, ran out to 83a at 4700 rpm, motor never skipped a beat, no alarms at all. Came back in at 2300 rpm motor ran great. Called the previous owner and he said within minutes of running at cruise speed it would sound an alarm and go into limp mode. So it seems maybe the oil pump or the filter was to blame. I just switched out the tanks and everything looks great. My only concern is that when I start motor, on the gauges you have a red yellow and a green, The triangle pointer stay at the yellow, which has a pic of oil can. Both the remote and the main oil tanks are full. Could the float on the main oil tank be stuck? When I pull the float out of tank, the alarm sounds , but does it stay at yellow if it is close to empty, then go into limp mode once it drops below half? Thanks for any and all advice. What else could make the oil light stay on?

I dont remember the colors, I have digital gauges but in either case the plumbing and sensors are the same. The remote oil tank (the big one) has one sensor position, low.. The main tank on the motor has three sensor positions: Full, about half full and full. The alarm and limp mode only happens when the main tank signals LOW. The remote tank pump activates when the main half full sensor triggers and it stops when the full sensor triggers.In your case, I suspect that under load and at speed, the oil got consumed faster than the tank could be filled due to a clogged tank, clogged filter or bad pump.
The oil synchronization adjustment can cause excessive oil usage but when all things are working, the remote oil feed can keep up. a bad adjustment will not cause an alarm or limp mode.
It looks like your new tank and plumbing has solved your issues.
Enjoy!

Tatt00z · Apr 10, 2017

Seems like what I thought fixed the problem actually didn't. I finally got it to fail after running it for a while a 3/4 throttle. As soon as alarm went off, I stopped, pulled the cowling off, and the main oil tank was at the bottom line, yet the remote tank is full. I am able to use the emergency pump on the motor to fill the main tank up. The yellow bar stays constantly lit. I suspect a short somewhere. The wiring under the center console amazed me. Someone instead of wiring to the fuse panel, spliced in to the 10 pin wiring harness. Some wires changed colors 3 or 4 times in a 2 ft section, with plenty of butt connectors. Does anyone know the schematic colors I need to check for a ground for the remote oil sensor. Thanks for all your help, it is greatly appreciated.

seasick · Apr 11, 2017

Tatt00z said:
Seems like what I thought fixed the problem actually didn't. I finally got it to fail after running it for a while a 3/4 throttle. As soon as alarm went off, I stopped, pulled the cowling off, and the main oil tank was at the bottom line, yet the remote tank is full. I am able to use the emergency pump on the motor to fill the main tank up. The yellow bar stays constantly lit. I suspect a short somewhere. The wiring under the center console amazed me. Someone instead of wiring to the fuse panel, spliced in to the 10 pin wiring harness. Some wires changed colors 3 or 4 times in a 2 ft section, with plenty of butt connectors. Does anyone know the schematic colors I need to check for a ground for the remote oil sensor. Thanks for all your help, it is greatly appreciated.

You are close to solving the problem.
You need to check how fast the oil is pumping when you use the override mode. It has to pump fast enough to be greater than the consumption rate which is higher at speed and under load. Of course the first question is when the oil on the main tank gets near the low mark, is oil pumping into the tank? If so there is a flow problem and if not there is an electrical signalling issue.
The sensor in the main tank (motor can easily be checked by pulling it out of the tank and with the ignition on, slide the 'float' up and down. All the way up, pump should be off. All the way down is alarm mode and in between those levels, the pump should be running. If that doesn't happen the sensor can be tested with an ohmeter to verify that all three switches are working. Since you get an alarm, we know that the lowest switch (and common lead) are good.
Note that in some cases a wire in the harness between the motor and the remote oil tank can break especially where the wires pass through grommets. Of course it could simply be a bad connector somewhere.
The answer to the question about whether the pump runs at all ( other than using the override) is crucial.

Tatt00z · Apr 13, 2017

After reading some post , and checking a few connections, I followed advice from Rodbolt, and jumped the black and black/red wire coming off the remote tank float, the yellow light went to green, and the pump started automatically filled to top line on main tank, cut itself off, and seems to be working properly. I just need to find the bad wire and replace that harness. Thanks for all your help, it's greatly appreciated. Glen

seasick · Apr 13, 2017

Tatt00z said:
After reading some post , and checking a few connections, I followed advice from Rodbolt, and jumped the black and black/red wire coming off the remote tank float, the yellow light went to green, and the pump started automatically filled to top line on main tank, cut itself off, and seems to be working properly. I just need to find the bad wire and replace that harness. Thanks for all your help, it's greatly appreciated. Glen

If you crossed those wires at the sensor end of the remote tank and everything worked, than the problem is either the sensor itself of the short wire from the sensor to the connector. The sensor only signals one condition and that is low oil (basically empty). If there is a low oil state, the pump will not be activated by the ecu when oil is needed in the main tank

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92 Yamaha 130 alarm problems

Tatt00z

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seasick

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Harpoon

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seasick

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Tatt00z

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seasick

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Tatt00z

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seasick

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Tatt00z

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seasick

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Tatt00z

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seasick

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