Can’t find a “dry” used Marlin 30

The thing is, ALL boats will show moisture. The big question is how much is acceptable/normal. I think I may have mentioned this in another reply to you, but this is why it's important to have a KNOWLEDGEABLE surveyor doing the reading. It needs to be someone that is experienced in hull moisture readings/issues, not just any old mechanical surveyor wielding a moisture meter. I obviously won't speak for your knowledge, but even though I've worked in the industry for 30 years and do mechanical surveys, I would still hire someone to do a moisture reading if I thought it necessary.

Now, the second part to this... let's say that the moisture reading is indeed too high. The next step could be to come to an agreement on price based on getting the issue area fixed. This could be via you getting a competent estimate for work and then deducting that from the agreed upon value, or making the sale contingent on the issue being fixed and a secondary survey. The secondary survey should be done on your dime - you want the guy working for you (although it's possible you may be able to deduct that from the sale). Money talks when it comes to things like this, especially if an owner knows there's a problem. Meaning, draw up a contract with your terms and write them a sizable deposit to show them you're interested... then stop talking.

I was actually about to reply on your other post, but this new one seems like the better forum for what I wanted to contribute. I was in your same shoes when I was looking for my 265, the moisture topic was driving me insane and I was 1-step from buying a moisture meter, and so on; I thought i would never find a dry 265. Here is what i learned: a) In the model years you are looking at, 'moisture in the hull' is not uncommon. You have to understand what is an acceptable level of moisture and in which area of the hull. While a moisture meter may be indicating moisture now, it may not in the spring time after the boat has properly dried out (assuming properly stored for the winter). b) Delamination is not the end of the world or necessarily a deal breaker and moisture does not mean that delam will occur. In the case of delamination, the source has to be identified, as the cause is from water intrusion i.e. water coming through seams around the cleat. Was the source of water identified and corrected? Is it ongoing? How long has it been going on? As Dennis already said, this could be negotiated and may end up working greatly in your favor. I dont know where the boats you are looking at are located, but up here in the northeast, because of the freezing temps and the moisture (water) freezing, the delam issue is much more common) c) If you bought a moisture meter and you are not an expert at reading it, return it and allocate that money towards a very good surveyor, proper/good meters are not cheap. You must be very well versed in hull moisture issues and using the meter to accurately assess those readings, as there are many factors that lead to false readings i.e. copper in bottom paint. As other before me already advised, the key is a really good surveyor and keep reading up on the topic and talking to knowledgeable people. You'll get your boat. Good luck!

I'm having a hard time believing that you can't find a clean one. I'd look for another surveyor. The coring on the sides doesn't even go down to the bottom of the side. It really should only get wet if the boat was damaged. The bottom of the hull is solid fiberglass. No issues there. I would think if anything was to get wet it would be the topside or transom where people may have mounted things without proper bedding. The decks can get soft over the years but that usually in much older boats. These are pretty easy to repair so I wouldn't be too concerned.

Exactly where on the hulls were the cores wet?

And exactly what is delaminating from what? There are two sides of the core. One side is the mold side and the other is the layup side.

Fishtales said:

I'm having a hard time believing that you can't find a clean one. I'd look for another surveyor. The coring on the sides doesn't even go down to the bottom of the side. It really should only get wet if the boat was damaged. The bottom of the hull is solid fiberglass. No issues there. I would think if anything was to get wet it would be the topside or transom where people may have mounted things without proper bedding. The decks can get soft over the years but that usually in much older boats. These are pretty easy to repair so I wouldn't be too concerned.

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Most boats over ten years old are going to show moisture around things like rod holders, cleats, hardtop mounts and anywhere hardware is mounted. If there is no delamination, then it all depends on how much moisture you can live with. If there is some moisture around specific items i.e deck plate or rod holder, you can always just remove the fixture, dry out then re-install fairly easily. If its more extensive then all bets are off.

One of the problems you may also be running into is, the clean ones go quick. Or at least that is what I ran into a lot when looking for 30-33 marlin/express before I bought my boat over the summer. Boat inventory is also low this time of year too which doesn't help.

Ok, then pull out the fridge and port side wall in aft cabin and locate the wet section of hull.

Too bad GB. I sold my 2004 Marlin last January to by my new 2017. It was in great shape. We did over 10K in repairs to get everything in excellent working order, including a professional cabin headliner repair.