transom repair

Is this a bracketed boat or a notched transom?

No opinion on the price just yet, but am curious as to why a 94' Sailfish would need transom replacement. Don't see many "projects" like that around here.

I'm with cdwood .... I'm curious as to what caused the problem,,, if the transom is truely bad why? You dont see many Grady's this side of 1990 that need transom work .... But I had to replacie the transom on my Grady (GOD forbid) ... I would think $5k would be in the ball bark ....

A motor mount bolt that lost it's seal or an improperly installed transducer can ruin a transom. It's definitely possible and the price may be a little high. Use the economy top your advantage, shop around.

If a solid transom, $5,500-6,500 from a reputable shop for a complete job.

freddy, find out what your cause is first. Any compromise of the inner or outer gel/glass could be your source starting with the garboard drain on up.

I have the same boat, let me guess, its starting to move where the top of the tramsom meets the deck of the euro transom at the outer edges of the motor well?
You have a fiberglass cover capping the transom that is seperate from the transom and has sealant on the edges with an aluminum angle trim screwed to the top of it under the motors? :?: :?: :?:

Good bet thats where your water is getting in, through the top of that weird cap/angle trim is.

I'm going to have my guy pull the motor, yank that aluminum trim piece and glass the top of the transom. I have a different model (222) than the OP but it's going to make me feel better to have this done.

Someone told me there was aluminum in the transoms. Is this just reinforcement?

I doubt that will happen. I'm sure there are those that have tried though. Mine is good, I'm glassing it to prevent any problems down the road.

freddy063 said:

yep thats the trouble,a known bad grady design, grady doesn't seal it up right, they should paid for the repair.

Click to expand...

Ya I hear ya! Mine is do for a refresh before she goes back in, same problem. Stalling on it tho seeing how my school loan repayments for my masters degree kicks in this month :cry:

Maybe I can get Obama to pay for it! I'll just write a bill, pass it thru congress (sure they wont read it), tell them its for researching and exposing the effects evil republican's have had on the stiper fishery caused mostly by Rush Limbaugh's sumbliminal messages thru radio waves reprograming the fish to seek out offshore oil . Hook line and sinker!

Hi Freddy,

How's the proceedings on your transom coming along?

I sent you a PM with some info that may be of help.


- Jay

Those brass tubes pressed into place at the base of the transom of many smaller models serve as the bilge drain plug fitting - do corrode, my 20 footer 1988 204C had it. My 20 footer Mako had it.
You know what is said of brass and saltwater?

It's not just the aluminum cap on the transom cutouts, nor motor mount bolts, swim platform bolts, transom cleats, rub rail screws, transducer screws, trim tab screws, scupper drains, etc. etc.

The transom replacement projects are very good DIYer jobs, even if you don't have experience in fiberglass, you can learn. There's enough over at classicMako.com to see, refer to Eddie Ring's project boats, step by step instructions with a zillion photos.

Depending on boat, it's about half the job doing it from the outside, that's why most are done that way.

It's not difficult nor have requirements of special tools.
Once you learn and presuming you have the time, you will save about 8 to 9 bucks for every 10 dollars quoted from shop.
For the structural work - marine plywood, epoxy resin, 1708 cloth, an angle grinder with grit paper adapter, filter mask. You don't go to West to find these, several mail order outfits can be used. That's about it, and time to do it.

Have to agree. You can save plenty by doing it yourself. IMO when those brass tubes corrode and split you are now wide open to soaking your transom.

Hey Freddy, Hows your transom coming?

I took my motors off and just got that cap off mine.

I hate to say this but I am extremely dissapointed in the design of this transom

Looking at it, and I am no expert, but even I can see that there is no way this

transom set up wouldnt fail.

My advise to those who have this type of set up is to goto a glass shop, or DYI, and

get that cap removed , and if its not wet yet, have the transom capped with glass.

There is open wood under there, and a big aluminium braket, nothing between the

bracket and wood but some crust and salt.

I cant believe they wouldnt glass the plywood, esp the top!!!!

I love my Gradys and always will, but a BIG WTF were you thinking to Grady White on the this one :!: :!: :!: :!:

Tbone, I don't think Grady intended to leave the end grain untreated back there, they intended to apply thickened resin by design (which is better than nothing).

No designer is that stupid to leave it raw.

The factory QA program fell asleep at the wheel, that's why it occurred IMHO. Workers taking shortcuts to show productivity, age old story. Or perhaps floor managers pushing workers to make unrealistic productuon goals.

Same goes for the tops of every bulkhead and stringer in the boat, penetrations thru the hull side and bottom coring, etc. Same applies.

Small details in fabrication that have such a great impact on product service life longevity.

Does anyone know if this was a design flaw of older models or is it something that is still ocuring?

Im gonna say yes, I called Grady and talked to them about it. I was blunt and said I couldnt believe the design, I was told the putty between the aluminum bracket (its a half inch thick hefty angle braket under that removable cap) seals the wood. I chukled as I was staring at mine while on the phone and said "It didnt work! LOL"
He was real nice, and I said I obviously wasnt looking for Grady to repair a 15 year old hull, but I was curious what they may have changed in the newer ones to prevent this or if there was a different design. He said it was basically the same desgin with the exception of using rot resistant wood, Greenwood I think?
That frightened me a little for future upgrades in bigger GWs later.
It may not rot or fall apart, but I cant see the design on my boat staying dry for more than five years (which I believe was the warranty on my year hull) unless you tore the motors off, took the cap and braket off, and reasealed every thing every two years or so. Or you could just have it redone and have it all glassed in.
I like the way these guys did this one, I think they got it before it got too wet, but same problem as mine and I bet Freddys.

http://www.compositeyacht.biz/GradyWhiteProject.html

Mine was so wet from the top down, when I touched some of the wood, it disinagrated like when you touch paper thin ice, or like one of those breath strips you put on your tongue.

I love my sailfish and my two wooden GWs, so she will be fixed. But I assure you this, and I know we have discussed this alot, but wood WILL NOT BE PUT BACK IN MINE!!!! This is proof in the pudding to me!