how'd you doit? replacing wood at rear of cockpit '89 252g

busterblue · Apr 30, 2010

I have a 1989 Sailfish. The wood panel (plywood) at the rear of the cockpit (separating the area beneath the fish box and bait box where the batteries and switches,and livewell / washdown valve live from the cockpit) is delaminating and needs to be replaced.

It currently has three doors; port and starbd for battery access and valve access, and center for bilge access. The problem is its not easy getting the batteries in and out and I can't get a third battery in which I'd like to do. Of course I could put in the 3rd battery now while the panel is off but I like easy access.....

so i'm thinking of changing the "door" configuration from side hinges to top hinges and changing the size from just big enuf to get a size 27 battery and your arms thru to much bigger. Esentially three top hinged panels tht give me access to the whole area with only two mullions "blocking total access when the panels are open (UP).

Anyone done this? thoughts? prayers? suggestions?

richie rich · May 1, 2010

I made a new one out of Starboard for my 88 for the exact reason stated...not installed yet....I made the doors as big as possible left, right and up and down....I think I have 5 inch spacing between doors...I can measure next week if you need....but can't speculate if it was good enough until later in the season when installed. I kept the door swing the same.

BobP · May 3, 2010

You hava a Grady model with the easiest stern service area to get at.

Takes about 1/2 hour, the entire panel is removal - clear across.

Just did a 3rd battery myself with new shelf, new charger, new tilt FF ducer, and new floor for both oil tanks on one side.

Can get any battery out with just door opening.

Transom access doesn't get any better on a Grady.

Only in a BW, and that's because it's under a floor hatch.

BobP · May 3, 2010

Have two 29 series Interstate Deeps, added a 27 series Interstate Deep.

Each is in large battery box.

Forgot, also did all scuppers to Attwodd stainless, new deck drains and hoses.

Piece of cake (with panel off).

Finest Kind · May 12, 2010

Re: how'd you doit? replacing wood at rear of cockpit '89 25

busterblue said:
I have a 1989 Sailfish. The wood panel (plywood) at the rear of the cockpit (separating the area beneath the fish box and bait box where the batteries and switches,and livewell / washdown valve live from the cockpit) is delaminating and needs to be replaced.

It currently has three doors; port and starbd for battery access and valve access, and center for bilge access. The problem is its not easy getting the batteries in and out and I can't get a third battery in which I'd like to do. Of course I could put in the 3rd battery now while the panel is off but I like easy access.....

so i'm thinking of changing the "door" configuration from side hinges to top hinges and changing the size from just big enuf to get a size 27 battery and your arms thru to much bigger. Esentially three top hinged panels tht give me access to the whole area with only two mullions "blocking total access when the panels are open (UP).

Anyone done this? thoughts? prayers? suggestions?

Here is how mine turned out:

busterblue · May 12, 2010

Wow

Finest, that look's sweeeeeeeeeeeeeet. i'm rethinking the mahogany replacement panel

Finest Kind · May 13, 2010

Re: Wow

busterblue said:
Finest, that look's sweeeeeeeeeeeeeet. i'm rethinking the mahogany replacement panel

Thanks, I like the way the transom turned out too. Don't even think about going with wood again, I already did that and already made that mistake for you to learn from

I replaced my original transom with one made of"marine" plywood with a teak vernier several years ago, it lasted only 3 seasons before delaminating and looking as bad as the original.

3/4" Starboard is the way to go for this transom application, however DON"T use starboard to replace the cockpit's wood trim and rodholders, the thinner guages warp and it looks like crap after a season in the sun.

I use Sikken's Cetol Natural Teak on my wood trim every spring, and it stays lookin good all season long.

BobP · May 13, 2010

Looks good, matches the Etecs!

Do you have photo showing the view from rear with Hermco & etecs in water?

Finest Kind · May 13, 2010

BobP said:
Looks good, matches the Etecs!

Do you have photo showing the view from rear with Hermco & etecs in water?

Thanks Bob.
Here ya go: With canvas and outriggers intalled

before canvas and outriggers

And this pic of the scupper height was taken last season with FULL GAS TANKS

BobP · May 13, 2010

That gal looks sharp !

I miss the white color motors - used to be plenty of white Johnnies around.

Then Yamaha mimicked the Evinrude color.. And at Montauk, it's Yamaha or bust.

I like the integrated swim platform as part of bracket, same way I see on parkers. Makes sense, little added cost and hardware.

I already took a unplanned dip going into the water when working on the old motors at dock.

If you have a photo of the stern out of the water to see what the drive looks like below the water line, I'll stop with taking the thread elsewhere !

What a good looking gal she is. Grady does make a good lookin boat, I don't think anyone here ever dissagreed on that.

Finest Kind · May 13, 2010

BobP said:
That gal looks sharp !

I miss the white color motors - used to be plenty of white Johnnies around.

Then Yamaha mimicked the Evinrude color.. And at Montauk, it's Yamaha or bust.

I like the integrated swim platform as part of bracket, same way I see on parkers. Makes sense, little added cost and hardware.

I already took a unplanned dip going into the water when working on the old motors at dock.

If you have a photo of the stern out of the water to see what the drive looks like below the water line, I'll stop with taking the thread elsewhere !

What a good looking gal she is. Grady does make a good lookin boat, I don't think anyone here ever dissagreed on that.

Thank you Bob, I think I'll keep this Gal! This is my 20th season with her...it's a long term relationship!

Here is a pic of the Hermco bracket being installed. Note the deep V design.

richie rich · May 13, 2010

Len, she is a looker for sure....nice work on the additions as well.....I've never seen a deepV bracket...and its glass to boot....Etecs with no Grady stripe and white canvass looks great.

busterblue · May 14, 2010

No problem on the hijack, that is a beauty

finest, did that bracket actually raise your stern? My back end could certainly use a lift with the twin 4 strokes on the origianl aluminum bracket.

what did it cost ? (hope you don't mind me asking)

Finest Kind · May 15, 2010

Re: No problem on the hijack, that is a beauty

busterblue said:
finest, did that bracket actually raise your stern? My back end could certainly use a lift with the twin 4 strokes on the origianl aluminum bracket.

what did it cost ? (hope you don't mind me asking)

YES, it definately will raise up your stern. Look at the pic above of my scupper height taken with full gas tanks. Even with full gas tanks, my boat sits in the slip such that rainwater collects and is pumped out of the forward bilge pump, not the rear.

The deep V definately helps smooth out the ride too, not as much pounding as with the old flat bottom bracket. And she JUMPS up on plane as soon as the throttles are moved....Could be the Etecs and my 4 blade props have something to do with that too

BEST part is every fall when I haul out and remove the drain plug there is NO water in the bracket. Before with my alluminum bracket, no matter how anal I was every spring trying to seal everything off, every fall there would be maybe 20 GALLONS of water in the bracket. At 8 pounds per gallon, I figure that extra weight cost me plenty in fuel milage and eventually, the bracket will pay for itself in fuel savings.

http://www.hermco.net/pricing.html

seabob4 · May 15, 2010

You know, it's funny. At Proline, we use Stainless Marine brackets. At Stamas, we used Armstrong brackets. 2 of the biggest, if not THE biggest names in the business. Yet, the Hermco bracket does the better job, offsets the weight effect of moving the motors further aft by providing flotation, appears to actually have a running surface that mimics the hull bottom...does Hermco do OEM?

BobP · May 15, 2010

Now that's how to build a bracket !!

A lot more below water surface than the Grady Drive which is flat bottomed and rises as it comes back.

Mike L · May 18, 2010

A nice looking ride all around. The panel job you did only made it look better.

cdwood · May 19, 2010

That is definately one unique older Grady. Curious, do you no longer have a garboard drain in the bilge? Hows that work?

Finest Kind · May 19, 2010

Busterblue, sorry to hijack your thread.

Thanks to all for the compliments.
more pics here:
http://www.greatgrady.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13661

Re the garboard drain, It's hard to see on the pic of the bracket being installed, but the bottom of the "V" of the bracket is actually right above the "V" of the hull and the garbord drain, which is still in it's original spot.

Reel Quick · Jun 9, 2010

F-K what was the purpose of your 3rd Batt ?
I agree more juice is better.
Thanks.

how'd you doit? replacing wood at rear of cockpit '89 252g

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