Sailfish coaming pads / transom seat reupholstering

Replacement of the badly weathered coaming pads and transom seat was an item that I had used during negotiations of our newly purchased '98 Sailfish 272. After a few quotes in the $ 2,400.00 range I decided to tackle the job myself and shift the savings towards engine service work on the twin OX 66 225's.

I have seen other topics on this subject here but I hope this thread will help those of you that have thought about tackling this project but haven't because of the challenging edges or dreaded transom seat back cushion. My intent is to copy the originals which were fabricated by Garelick for Grady White. I hope to reupholster the cushions to match the originals exactly with flat end panels, welting, mesh bottom venting and grommet holes for attachment.

The fabric and misc.
I think we all agree that the best fabric match for partially faded 1998 hulls is Sea Quest Marine color: Sea White

So I purchased both quilted and flat vinyl as well as Sea Quest's welting to match http://www.csctextiles.com/SeaQqlt.htm as well as PhiferTex woven seat mesh for the bottom of the transom seat cushion as well as the bottom edge of all coaming pads. Don't forget the B92 polyester thread. this is the thread to use for this project. Purchasing the pre-fabricated welting cord will save a great deal of time but be prepared to buy a 75' roll!

Cost of the material above: $ 340.00

The sewing machine
Don't expect to take on this task without the use of a "walking foot" sewing machine! At times, you will be sewing thru 4-5 layers of vinyl with B92 thread which requires a # 20 needle. If you don't own one of these brutes, check "craigslist" or the auction sites. These machines are designed for upholstery. the presser foot and lower feed dogs both work to walk the material under the needle creating a un-interupted stitch pattern. After a week of searching for used with no luck, I ordered a new machine from Sailrite http://www.sailrite.com/Ultrafeed-LS-1- ... lking-Foot

Great machine that I will own for life! It will come in handy when we replace the hardtop enclosure.

The upholstery stapler
I want to be sure that I produce a cushion that is equal in quality to Garelick's originals so............the 3/8" crown fine wire pneumatic upholstery stapler is a must have.............along with a box of stainless staples http://www.nailgundepot.com/Fine-Wire-a ... ducts.html

Ready to Rock!

Step one.......start out easy......"Transom Door Coaming Pad"

Remove all stainless staples holding the cover to the backer. Next, carefully remove all stitching lines holding the end panels and vent mesh to the front panel (photograph as you go.....just in case) and label match seams now for sewing sequence later. Now you are ready to cut new panels and welting from the old patterns.

Now you're ready to sew!
The first seam is to join the vinyl mesh with the main panel. Keep in mind that the distance from the stitch to the edge on the Garelick products is 3/8" so hold the dimension or your new cover will be very tight if the seam allowance moves closer to 1/2". Next, is an end panel stitch that involves the flat vinyl end panel material, a length of welting and the front quilted panel. Sandwich the welting between the layers and sew carefully as you guide the welting thru the "Welting Tunnel" on the walking foot. (See image below) Notice that the person who had sewn the original cover notched the panel to indicate where the panel corners align. Notch your corners as this is extremely helpful as you plan to negotiate a turn while feeding 4 layers of vinyl, welting and maintaining a stitch that's parallel to your outside edge. Be sure to sew the welting end into the top of the cover so that the cord will not be exposed. Sew the remaining opposite end panel and you're thru with the sewing portion. Next, install the two 3/8" brass grommets in the drain mesh to match the original locations. On to installing the cover ! Carefully stretch the cover over the foam pad and backer. Start stapling at the center of each side. checking the panel lines for parallel. Install the welting cord, outlining the back of the pad to match the original. Staple around the entire perimeter as per the original YOUR DONE !!

On to the next one.......

STAY TUNED

The completed transom door coaming pad:

Thanks for the kind comments. This is a great site packed with lots of info! It's a pleasure to contribute.

Tucker said:

Looks great 98. Mine are out now. Getting mine done for $750 hope they look as good! Got my boat in Sept and doing the 100hr engine service plus some extras. Should be about $900 in parts but it'll be done.

Click to expand...

Wow! is that for all coaming pads,transom seat back and transom seat cushion ? :jaw Made to match the originals ? That sounds like a great deal !

Fishtales said:

Hi,
A few questions....
Can you provide some additional information on the 'notching'?
What nailer and grommet tool did you end up going with?
Did you reuse the foam padding or replace?

This is a great post....

Click to expand...

Wow this is a old post, glad you find it informative. I purchased the Bostitch 21671B 22 Gauge Fine Wire Upholstery Stapler. The notch I refer to is where corners of each panel occur. The original stitched panels which I used as patterns had notches. I purchased a grommet tool at west marine. Yes, I did reuse the original padding which was in good condition.