Deck sealent/caulk

94 252

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Pulled up the deck to replace a network cable to fuel tank. Deck's back down now and I need to seal it in place.
Not sure what will work best. Any suggestions??
 

ElyseM

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GE silicone II (almond) is the retail version of what GW uses over the past decade or so (per them). that's what i use. good luck, ron
 

Ky Grady

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Just pulled my floor panels above tanks to check condition. Will be using the GE Silicone II in Almond to reseal.
 

journeyman

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If you have larger gaps in some areas, stuff some round foam insulation in there first (size appropriate found at HW store). I've read that some guys will lay down a piece of fishing line under the silicone to help with removal. Never done it but they say it works. Be careful removing old sealant with sharp objects, you will harm the gel coat! Take the time to tape the joint, it helps with finishing the seam neatly. A wet finger is your best tool to make it smooth. You may have lost that "Grady color" with sun and oxidation. The almond usually matches but white or "off" white might be better. Buy a few and test, it's cheap enough. Even though it says mold resistant, good luck with that!
 

seasick

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94 252 said:
GE silicon 2 it is.
Gonna go with white as the deck panels are white. Thanks for input...
They are probably off white and if so, the white caulk stands out in a glaring way. The almond seems to blend in better.
 

Ky Grady

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seasick said:
94 252 said:
GE silicon 2 it is.
Gonna go with white as the deck panels are white. Thanks for input...
They are probably off white and if so, the white caulk stands out in a glaring way. The almond seems to blend in better.

I would agree with this. I thought white also due to being an '04 from Florida and suffering sun bleach. I bought two tubes, one each color, and came home and matched up and the Almond was a closer match than the white.
 

ROBERTH

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I have been using the Almond for several years. It does pretty good. No issues with deck seams. No mold.

However, around some other areas where there is more movement like swim platform, it will break the seal, but easy to reseal. Around the base of my bow pulpit, it was molding a bit, but only where the area was very thin when I had spread it with my fingers. Was easy to scrap off with fingernail.

Overall, very pleased with the color match and durability and ease of application. Just tape off area, apply and spread it with wet finger, and peel tape off before it begins to skin up. Perfect.
 

seasick

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ROBERTH said:
I have been using the Almond for several years. It does pretty good. No issues with deck seams. No mold.

However, around some other areas where there is more movement like swim platform, it will break the seal, but easy to reseal. Around the base of my bow pulpit, it was molding a bit, but only where the area was very thin when I had spread it with my fingers. Was easy to scrap off with fingernail.

Overall, very pleased with the color match and durability and ease of application. Just tape off area, apply and spread it with wet finger, and peel tape off before it begins to skin up. Perfect.

In warm weather, the silicon will skin over in a hurry. I pull the tape off within a minute or so, often right after I finish applying the caulk and often once a seam is done and not the whole panel. One other trick that may help is that for the silicon sealants, wetting your finger with alcohol (not beer!) works better than a dry finger. Don't wet with water.
The mildicides in the GE kitchen and Bath caulks don't last forever and eventually mildew or mold may appear. If you can wipe off the mold with mild soap, the mildicide is still working. When id wears out, the mold will go deeper into the seal and you can't scrub it ou easily. You can bleach it to an extent but once the mildicide is shot, mold can grow quickly depending on conditions.
Note that bleach can discolor fiberglass and gel-coat so rinse well if it is used
 

Fishtales

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Another vote for GE Almond Silicone sealer. I pulled the deck up over the tanks this year (never did it prior) before spashing. The original GE silicone was there 10 years and was still doing the job. I cleaned the area out well and inspected everything. I was happily surprised that that tanks and hoses looked very nice. just a little mold and dirt that I got rid of prior to resealing.
 
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Tip for the forum-
I pulled every hatch in cabin and on deck. I came to realize tapping is a waste of time. While it is fresh and I mean within a minute, wipe it down with a rag soaked with acetone.

You should have several rags ready to go and don't mess around as said earlier it will skin over quickly. Use your finger or something behind the spout as you go to get it down farther in the crack, with the first rag pass toss the rag and use a new one, this stuff sticks to everything. Continue to smooth it as you go and clean the outside of the joint as well. It will take several rags to do a 2x4 hatch. Must work quickly and would help if you practice on something similar to get the idea.

You will be amazed how easy it is. It looks just like factory and the height of the bead is uniform. If you get a small pull or stretch marks apply more silicone and wipe again.

I have to believe that's the way they do it at the factory. I redid a 2 hatches that did not need it to match the rest and fresh look of a good chaulk job!

Will post pictures later
 

Denko

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Jeanette Elaine said:
Will post pictures later
Looking forward to pics, especially since my caulk jobs look like a kindergartner was in charge :roll: