Recent content by enfish

I'm thinking prop torque too. If the trim tab on the trailing edge of the cavitation plate isn't adjusted properly, the result is usually a list to one side or the other. It's likely that if the motor was truly centered up, your boat would be pulling to the right. But you're putting slight...

It's either/or. There is a mechanical choke on the cowling and an electronic choke that is activated by a momentary toggle switch at the helm. I use the mechanical choke for cold starts. The electronic choke doesn't provide enough choke when the motor is cold. It will eventually start, but it...

Just to note, that motor is NOT an OX66. I have the same model and year motor, 1995 175TXRT... It's the first generation Yamaha Saltwater Series. I knew those photos looked familiar... And, your startup routine sounds about normal. My normal cold start is advance the throttle in neutral, pull...

Ha! Just saw this thread and that was going to be my first suggestion where to look. Many years ago I had a brain fart day where I spent probably 2 hours troubleshooting why the motor wouldn't start, giving those exact symptoms, before realizing the kill switch lanyard wasn't clipped in... yeah...

GW switched to 1 piece decks without an access panel over the tank (just a 6 inch inspection port) whenever they switched a model from aluminum to plastic fuel tanks... I guess the idea is a plastic tank should last the lifetime of the hull, unlike an aluminum one... idk

For reference, my 208 on a trailer is more than 5200 lbs. I think you are underestimating at 4200 lbs.

I had a buddy whose boat had a similar problem. Turned out the fuel lines were beginning to deteriorate and would collapse when the motor started sucking fuel at a high enough volume to get the WOT RPMs. There was nothing wrong with his motor. Replacing all fuel lines resolved the issue.

Digging through my old service notes on my motor, I discovered had this same issue many years ago. Different model Yamaha, but the cause of oil coming out the pitot tube hole was the shift shaft seal leaking.

I might be mistaken, but I'm pretty sure that's the speedometer pitot tube input you have circled in your photo. There shouldn't be anything critical coming out of that hole.

I just spray and wipe down my tools with CorrosionX or something similar.

Considering the max rated HP for that hull is 230hp, putting a 250 on it sounds like a solid idea to eke out a few more mph. Who cares about keeping control of the boat or damaging the hull... </sarcasm>

To illustrate Dennis's comment regarding ablatives, this is what 15 years of not caring about ablative bottom paint looks like on a trailer boat. It's gone at the water line where we do more scrubbing of harbor scum and also where the trailer bunks rub. Everywhere else it's still very effective.

Listing was just deleted by the author... A Grady hull that is floating and looked in decent shape for free would be a steal. Though it had been sitting for a while judging by the growth on the lower unit.

That one is likely a Perko 0554 / 0554DP https://www.perko.com/catalog/cabinet_hardware/514/door_catch/ But that Seadog one in SkunkBoat's post looks like a more durable version of the same thing.

Probably mounted somewhere to the inside of the transom. If you don't know where the inlet side is, follow the hose from the output side. Or if it's working, turn the pump on and see if you can hear where the sound is coming from. If the boat is on a trailer, you can look under the boat and see...