I didn't realize I had them until I removed my panel. It was buried behind the side console.There are a number of wire label makers out there. Prints on shrink tubing. May have to invest in one.
On the Molex connector - I have never had to dive that far into my panel wiring to see if there is a connector. I'll look though. Decide later what I'll do.
Yes the 10 awg red & black are the power feed to the switches.Those are the red/black coming through the molex from the boat side of the existing harness?
Removed screws, unplugged molex connectors and hand carried it to New Wire. They are in Charleston SC, so I was there already, personally delivered to them.So what did you do? Cut the old panel and harness out and send it to them?
12 AWG feeding the panel.Yes the 10 awg red & black are the power feed to the switches.
Hard to tell from your picture. Are the ones that say BATT a heavier gauge than the rest?
If I were you I would take that right to the terminal blocks under the dash (if you have them) and bypass the molex plug and harness.
I was about to do that today on mine but I don't have the proper yellow terminals for 10 awg. I always have everything I DON"T need.....
Everything is working except the livewell.
Unfortunately no. New Wire disassembled my old panel to use it at a template. I have the wiring diagram in owners manual to go by.You probably only need one good ground for the light circuit, but if I were replacing that bunch of grounds sprouting off of the single wire, I would replace that connection with a ground bus.
Do you still have your old panel intact, so that you can at least see what color of wire comes off of each switch, to match your new red to the boat side of the connection?
They didn't offer and I didn't ask. That would be a New Wire question.You got me interested! I can't see not going back in with new Molex connectors - assuming they can still get them.
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Same conclusion I came to today.
The Molex connectors can't be eliminated on my boat - not enough access. They are available from Digikey though. The harness will be the expensive part.
I think I'll only go half way. I can make and replace all the jumpers. Replace the connectors and re-use the harness.
By the way I found a way to cleanup the wires where the water has wicked in under the insulation. If they are not too bad a Dremel tool with a wire brush and clean them up. May help you with your splicing.
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I have everything out to Newwire for a quote.
It may be a little late to suggest this but those Molex connectors might be easy and cheap to get. I did a Google search for 15 pin Molex and it sent me to Digikey. Going direct to Digikey is too complicated - too many selectors. If you do this you should have a Molex crimper not just any crimper. The pins have insulation support as well as the electrical connection.Thanks for the Dremel tip. As I'm assembling and putting ends on, I'll be using corrosion guard on all connections, it's messy, but piece of mind.
I've got a little over $1100 in my panel as a reference to your quote, which includes the back-lit Grady-White logo, which of course is extra.
OH! you have the old Euro Oval switches. YES. join the 21st century and get etched illuminated Contura switchesYou got me interested! I can't see not going back in with new Molex connectors - assuming they can still get them.
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