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As long as there's not so much tape that it prevents good contact with the o-ring, it can't hurt. But all that is really needed is cleaning/lubing them once or twice a year. 303 makes great stuff, but simple silicone grease will work better for water intrusion.

There's really no way to give an accurate estimate. But we can at least offer better ideas if you provide much more detail and multiple pictures about what "some corrosion" means. Plus, the way you make it sound, it seems like the corrosion is on the outside of the powerhead... so... clean it...

Agree that for the shifting issue, the most likely culprit is the cables, maybe the control handle. Disconnect at the engine and see how things feel.

Hmmm. Maybe give him the benefit of the doubt. Not everyone responds to texts right away - especially if it's only been a day or so. And maybe he's trying to figure out how to get that info for you. Now... if it's been two days or so... well....... :rolleyes:

Maybe he missed an email (or sent to spam)?

I'm not an owner of an Etec, but I see them around. Just from what I've read over the years, they seem like a solid engine. The only thing I'd be curious about is parts availability (not the generic parts, but Evinrude specific stuff) and someone nearby that can work on it if you need service...

Did you try looking on Boat Trader?

Love it! :)

Diad, since you're starting fresh, you can do things differently and use much less metal but have more strength. You can use some Al box tubing underneath a simple 1/8" plate. Or, even just the box tubing - but a plate on top would be better for maneuvering around on the pulpit. Be sure to...

I was going to mention an overlay of glass, but truthfully, this would be overkill for this project. PVC accepts glue well - so the 4200 will be MORE than enough to keep glued down. Prep the bilge floor well, though - chemical clean and physical (sandpaper).

So, obviously, the reason the pump/switch is located so far aft is to evacuate as much water as possible. Moving it forward will diminish that a bit - but probably not all that much depending on how far forward you go. As long as you're OK with that, then no problem. Can you install an access...

Wall thickness of the metal tubing can vary - which of course affects the ID. Your boat might have the ticker wall thickness? Taco Metals is a big supplier for tubing - I'm not sure if they have fittings, though.

Fair enough :)

In comparison, a screw in plate has more integrity - especially as pop-ins get older. But as far as which one keeps water out better - there's really no difference if they're maintained.

Minor point, but you don't need a washer when using something like 1/4" plate - and especially 3/8" plate. The plate IS the washer. And a C-channel (or L-channel) is another washer since it sits on the plate. Sketch... Ah, OK - I see what you're talking about, now. The "top" and "bottom"...

Oh my, those are 1/2" bolts? Holy overkill, Batman :) 1/4" is more than enough. But going bigger is never bad, either. Actually, the reason I mentioned C-channel (as opposed to box tubing) is because you can access the bolt head - meaning, you only need the bolt going through the lower...

Skunk, I saw your link to this post from that other post and your comment about plate flexing intrigued me. Here's a thought to ponder... instead of adding another plate, use two C-channel pieces of stock Al (say 1-1/2" tall). These will provide much rigidity than plate. They could be...

Oh, I didn't realize this wasn't in the bilge. If the area is not connected in any way to the bilge where gas fumes could then exist, disregard some of my comments. I think you're fine with the 15amp - that's close enough as makes no difference. Besides, that's better than going to 10amp...

Yes, that should work. Just make sure your connections are tight and won't vibrate around over time. The main goal is here is to NOT make a spark in a gas bilge :cool: Minor point... but you'll likely void any warranty by cutting the plug off. Is the charger you've decided on rated IP and...

If the Al was only corroding in areas that you can easily access, you could do the repair in those spots. But looking at your pictures, there's a siginifcant chance that there's more corrosion between the engine mounting bracket and pod. And, of course, the question is... how bad is it? On a...