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Well, now it's getting confusing. Why would you be filling up the drain hole?

Do you mean you are replacing the garboard FLANGE? Unless you dig out and clean/strip all of the silicone, most sealants will have trouble adhering. Something like BoatLife Lifeseal will work, though. Do not use anything like 3M5200 - that's super glue and not needed for a case like this...

Is that a bronze flange? Is that OK on an aluminum bracket? It seems that would cause corrosion of the aluminum over time.

Yer welcome!

A firm "clunk" in the lower unit gears going into gear is normal... and GOOD. Firm, quick engagement is much better than grinding the gears! The sound will be less noticeable in the water. Trim sensor is on the engine - can diagnose there. Fuel gauge... check at the sender. Short sender...

I think this is a good idea, regardless of the insurance company. It looks like your manual switch is connected direct to the battery - it should really be connected to switched power so it can't accidentally be left or bumped on. Granted, the way you have it, when you manually turn the switch...

There's been a number of threads on here about this and it's kind of the same thing over and over - with the only real change being the price starting to come down. But one thing I still wonder about (maybe the answer was already given, but I haven't seen it?)... how is the prop repaired when...

Yes, that is the "spec" for the engine - and you want your WOT to fall in that range - ideally towards the top end. However, that's different than what we're talking about. You need to find YOUR boat's WOT (ideally with a normal load). Since you haven't yet really been able to do a real WOT...

Wait on the prop, Steve - from everything you've written so far the "issue" appears to be a free fix... just trim it up more for max speed/RPM. Besides, before playing with props, you still need WOT max RPM data.

When you want to find max speed and RPM (a different thing than normal running) it's just a hull - so really no different than other V-hulls for this purpose. Tabs refracted, WOT and keep trimming up and up. Forget the gauges - do it by feel and sound.

I agree - yes. But he would lose push with the smaller diameter - so I don't think that would be a way to go? Am I thinking correctly there?

Vic, is this more just a search to find an answer to the unkonwn? It seems you have your senders figured out, so that part is taken care of. So this is just more of a curiosity thing, right? You could take a look in your owner's manual (you can get it on GW's site, too) but I'm 99% sure pink...

Yeah, I think it just is what it is when you have twin engines - especially on a narrow beam boat. I don't know where the stern eyes currently are or what exactly your transom looks like, but, can add a second set of stern eyes in a better location? Make the Turbo Swing an early Christmas...

If you read up/search on this, you'll find that this is common with all GW's. Not because of leaks, but because the forward bilge area/hull design is slightly lower than the aft bilge. Tilt the boat up -- whether on the trailer or with slow speed trim. Get all of the water out - ALL. Use a...

Steve, something sounds amiss - like maybe something else is going on. Also, I believe you're thinking of prop pitch backwards. Overloaded means the prop is too big - as in too much pitch. If you go up in pitch, you will lose RPM, not gain. Are you trimming up as high as feasible when going...

Sounds like a Turbo Swing (or similiar) that we referenced above?

I understand where your mind is on this. Maybe jsut hook it all up and try it, first? You can just do it while still on the trailer as a test. If you don't have a bridle yet, just use a piece of a rope to test things. Turbo Swings are FANTASTIC, but they do cost a bit of money :) Not...

The seat base looks like fiberglass? I believe the seatback is HDPE, right? That's going to be really tough to get paint to stick to for any amount of time... and then it's going to look worse than it does now. I'm not sure what material the armrests are. But I'd really caution against...

Before you spray - maybe try cleaning better? I've sprayed plastic parts with good results, but if you can clean it, that's a better solution. Is the seat base fiberglass?

Oh, that's totally different. It originally sounded like you were replacing the structural bulkheads below the floor. That changes things. Pretty much everything we typed above is a waste of typing :) In THIS case, go with either HDPE or expanded PVC board.