Search results

Hmmm. Strange - there's usually "something". Maybe they're a made in China "special" :)

There's usually some type of brand/model on the interior/underside of the lights. What do you see there? You could look through Perko's and Attwood's online parts catalog to see if you can match something up - and then find a retailer. Does it NEED to be just as big? Meaning, all you really...

We've used them many times at the shop when, for whatever reason, an OEM wasn't an option. I think they are a solid option.

Do the temps there get cold enough where it warrants ensuring the fresh/salt water lines are cleared and maybe run some pink stuff through for good measure? Vinyl... if you haven't been covering them now, it probably doesn't matter. There's more damage happening to them in the Summer than the...

Span is more important.

In my experience, no. I have either 18" or 24" span (I forget, right now) on my Offshore - which is only an 8' wide boat. They have a 9" chord. But I think the only way that would happen is if the actual hull ALSO came out of the water... and for that to happen, there would be more things to...

Generally speaking, span is more important than the chord measurement. So going wider has more impact on performance than depth. If you have room for 24" go for it. The three extra inches in chord will help - but to a much lesser extent.

OK, that helps. I wouldn't worry about clearing the vent line - that's not causing the issue - I was thinking you were having trouble filling up because the line was plugged. Yes, it's possible that lines can permeate - but the tank leaking and/or the fuel sender plate leaking (as noted...

If you look inside the fuel fill, you can see the vent opening - but it's not easy to blow it out given the location. But... it's extremely rare for this fitting to get clogged... again, because of it's location. What's the reasoning for blowing out the line?

Agree - they are a good, solid company, as well.

I do not, but... just look on the shock. The important info is listed there. You don't need a "GW" part for this - you can source shocks just about anywhere. Just don't get the cheapie Autozone ones. Attwood is a good source - among others.

Is the boat going to stay in the water? Or on the trailer?

The boat is on a lift

And Seasick's prophecy holds true! 8'? Take a big breath! :) :) :) I once saw a picture somewhere of someone tying an opened umbrella upside down to their engine while working on things....

Starting on land... go to your local Marine store or probably even Walmart - get a "flush attachment"... commonly referred to as muffs. Make sure to have the drive in the trim range, not the tilt range.

Sounds about right!

If by "pretty", you mean getting back to gelcoat on the bottom... that is a BIG chore... both in time and money. The easier route is to sodablast the bottom to get old/flaky paint off and then re-bottom paint it. The alternative to sodablasting is some combination of scraping/sanding/chemical...

Larry, that plate that you showed is already on your boat. The plate on your boat should match up the plug you found. Both of those things are standardized. And... are there other boaters nearby? Many boaters carry an extra garboard drain plug on board - you could ask them to borrow one. Or...

Yes - available pretty much everywhere. Bronze is better, FYI. Edit: Just saw you mentioned it's not available in Antigua? I never would have guessed that something so commonly used is not available. So you have pretty much the only boat there without a garboard drain? You can use a plain...

Freedom - you said you're going to drop it in the water.... have you already verified the impeller is good, cap/rotor/plugs, fluids?