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So then it probably makes sense to have it in a better area. Although, the reality is that boats don't sink in 8 seconds. There's plenty of time to grab necessary gear like a a go bag, offshore life jackets, etc. And, if the conditions are warranted, jackets should already be one. But, yeah...

I only know the basics about an EPIRB, but I suppose it depends on which kind it is, right? Is the kind that will self-release from the bracket if it gets "x" number of feet underwater? Or is it a manual release (need to physically grab it)?

Lucky... what if you left it where it was but made lifting the float a "remote" operation? For example - and this is a very basic idea just to explain what I'm thinking... screw/epoxy a string to the float and run the other end of the string up to a hook within easy reach. Or... a small "tool"...

Genius! That would definitely make it much, MUCH easier... why don't manufacturers think like that! :) :) :)

It won't be any different than any other boat - the directions that come with it will tell you all of the things to watch out for... obstructions such as strakes, etc. Also anything that would disrupt water flow such as other thru-hulls forward of your location. There's no magical/one best...

If it's a relatively new boat, your local dealer will be able to get it. But you might also ask them if it was actually a custom made unit... or an off the shelf unit from a third party. For example, Google for Garelick cockpit step as an idea.

So they ARE curved (convex/concave)? I'm surprised they are curved.

Most, if not all, all around lights come with a length (maybe 8" or 12") of wire already attached. But... what other "white" lights do you have and where are they located? There may be a better solution. Do you have a hardtop or Bimini?

Oh, you're going old school and tinting to match yourself - good! We have a gel guy in the area that does that - he's been doing it for 50 years. It's an art form.

Oh... we just had a Sea Ray gel tech come to our shop for a warranty repair - he brought a cool little tool that Spectrum Gel has (I'm sure they're not the only ones). It's a 4"x1-1/2" tube that is, essentially, the same "paint matcher" at a paint store. He took multiple measurements around...

I think it's going to look great - the shape you have looks very natural/blends right in. I guess what I meant about the 90mm was... why worry about keeping as much of the original pod as possible? If you cut it at all, might as well cut as much as you can... what are 'ya saving it for...

"I was really curious if any body in the group actually pulled the new lines thru and any input" -- Yes, what I posted was some tips I've used (in addition to what Seasick mentioned) over the years. Silicon spray is a safe product for rubber. It actually helps preserve/condition rubber. Dish...

If the glass is perfectly flat, yes, that's your best option. If it's curved.... it's going to get very expensive.

Cool - thanks for the posting this info - it's always good to see what someone's process is! :) They were sitting on rubber hoses? Shame on GW :) Depending on all of the variables, it can lead to corrosion of the tank since it doesn't allow air to surround the tank and moisture can stay in...

That's going to look really nice when you're all done. Are you planning on trying to match the existing gelcoat... or maybe a slight contracting color... or maybe wrap in vinyl (black, for example)? The forming you did around the hardtop support post looks really nice. One quick question...

I love using foamboard for templates - started using that about 20 years ago as a "Hmmm, I wonder if this would work?" kind of thing :cool: I even used foamboard for the core of a floor hatch that I rebuilt! Been thinking of doing something somewhat similar with my '82 - interested to see...

Is there sealant holding the livewell in? Try a putty knife or even some strong fishing line pulled under the perimeter to break the sealant.

Can't help with the solution as I've never been in that situation, but it's an interesting dilemma and primarily, that's why I'm writing to be able to follow this. Obviously what's on the top side (CC, dual console, WA, whatever) doesn't really factor in - other than having extra canvas up...

Good thought with NAPA - if they physically don't do it, they'll likely be able to direct you to a local paint/autobody supply shop. I did that for gelcoat (made paint) a while back, as well - but never thought to ask if they can do vinyl dye.

I don't know if SEM has records of that - but try them. Or maybe they can send you a color swatch.