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With a 2 stroke it's less of an issue than a 4-stroke. But it's only "better" to winterize it (extended lay-up) than not. It will hep to avoid losing compression/power over time. Certainly not a life and death thing, though.

Well, at least it's running 2-stroke through it - granted not as good as a true winterization, but it does help. Does that year have the "press a button to winterize" feature? Plus, if you're running a stabilizer year round, that helps tremendously.

If you ran the cocktail mixture (or fog, depending on engines) through the engine then that part is safe/good for the Winter. As far as leaving them tilted up... in theory, there should be enough room for collected rain water to freeze upward and not outward. So in theory they should be OK...

More than likely, although not guaranteed, the motor spline is OK. The wiper arm hub is usually the culprit in cases like this. If it's past soaking/etc... just cut it like you were thinking. Once you get 90% of the way through, you can likely split it with a large screwdriver.

Plenty of time to go and get it before the Spring :) If it's shrink wrapped, put a door in.

I think I'm following what you're saying... You should be fine with just one filter. The aux and bladder can T into the filter. Both the main and aux/bladder will stay connected to the filter all the time.

I can't specifically answer your question, but in lieu of someone with direct experience... Why do you want to use two filters? Just keep an extra filter or two on board and run both tanks to the filter head. You coudl just install inline shutoff valves in each tank's fuel line instead of a...

Yes... NOT water! :) If it's a nicer compass ($$) check with Ritchie. They used to have a rebuild service - I have no idea if they still do. If they do, it will come back to you like new.

It's good guys - I didn't take any offense to the vent vs cav part. It's a good discussion to have. But to your line of thinking, Brian, cav is definitely a different thing than we're taking about - and this is not to compare, but I've also been in the marine industry for about 30 years...

As noted above, before we go too far down one path or the other... what is your desired end result? And... the brand of boat makes absolutely no difference - it's just gelcoat - the same as thousands and thousands and thousands of other boats :)

Sure! Super easy, too.

Yes, you could install a jack plate. But, at least in my opinion, I think that's a lot of spend just to get the gearcase out of the water when a little bit of paint each year does the same thing. Also... many of the newer engines can be set to a certain "max" tilt up angle using the...

I'm not up to speed on the chill plates as I have never personally dealt with them - without researching, I wouldn't want to give misleading info... and I don't want to give advice based only on internet research, either! For the AC (and the chill plates IF they physically run on the same loop...

It's simply a function of weight of the engine vs transom height vs other weight in the boat vs the engine's inherent range of motion. Some engines have a greater range of motion that others. It's not uncommon for any boat, though - it's not a "Gulf Stream" issue. It's also not a big deal...

"Experimental" line of thinking - understood. What you're REALLY looking for here is someone that has TRIED both/multiple holes to see the difference. Not someone who says "I have it in X hole and it works great". FYI... anti VENTILATION plate, not cavitation. Look up the definitions -...

I think that for this to make sense, we have to forget about the money. It's not about the money - it's about what someone wants a boat "to do for them". If they want a large boat to carry larger amounts of people more comfortably and/or are in bigger water where they want a smoother ride and...

You can certainly re-route fuel hoses if you find a way that makes more sense to you. Along the lines of what Hookup mentioned... another option is a large, round deck plate - or even square, plastic hatch.

DRM, to clarify about "plug", above... I meant and ACTUAL rubber plug since that's the way most of the cupholders come from the factory. Weedwhacker string is a good snake tool.

Gearcase size is not important. Besides, that gearcase is not different than all the rest. It's really all about the anti-ventilation plate compared to the hull bottom. There are tons and tons of threads about this - if you wanted to read up on it you can search. There's also tons and tons...

Cupholders don't usually drain oveboard - they drain into the bilge. I assume you mispoke and actually simply mean "it doesn't drain at all"... not "it drains, but not overboard" - they way you worded it makes it sound like the latter. So... assuming you just mean "it doesn't drain"... -- Is...