Search results for query: hatch caulk

If you remove the seal that often, bury a piece of hundred pound braid around the bottom of the joint, and fill on top of it. Remember which corner the ends are at(tie them together), and when you remove, dig up an end and pull, and you will at least cut the seal all the way around, and maybe...

Life Seal is an adhesive meant to glue things together. Life Caulk is just that a caulk. If you have a hatch that is screwed down and needs to be sealed,something like LifeCaulk is the way to go. That said, although I use GE silicon for general sealing inside the hull as opposed to the outer...

You remove the tank hatch every year? Gee! Have you really used Sikaflex sealant? That stuff is tenacious. Isn't it difficult to remove? For deck panel sealing, I something like GE Silicon Caulk . I find that the almond color looks better than the white assuming the deck is the Grady off...

prototype #1 ... is glued to the hatch itself ... Contact cement The top of the "T" lays tight to the deck. The gasket comes off with the hatch..... I don't think tripping is an issue .. I purchased a cheap-o gasket to experiment with and found some flaws, maybe not so much in the gasket but...

Without the caulk, obviously you will get rainwater and any water that may/could backfeed through the scuppers (if that's an issue on your boat) down into the bilge. You could build a gutter system that ties into one of the deck drains if you wanted. For the hatch, a couple hinges and whatever...

Dennis, I'm not professing to be an expert on this subject, just that in my years I have never seen hatches sealed with anything other than caulk/sealant in the perimeter gap. Could the rubber pieces you saw have been put there to sort of "shim" the hatch? Or maybe it was there as an attempt...

OK now I have to ask. When I pulled my 3 floor hatches I found strips of rubber in the corners and along the edges where the screws went through, and the bare areas between them had 'shadows' that looked like the strips were there and now gone. They were the same material that was used between...

Just to be clear, there is no "as well". Meaning, the ONLY seal is the caulk/sealant (whether silicone or other formulation). There is no gasket/o-ring around or under the large, rectangular, fiberglass floor hatch.

Is it possible this water is coming in when running in seas or is this at rest? I have been battling some leaks now for a couple of years. Over time, found some issues and fixed such as leaking water line, then caulk around window channels, hardtop stantions, etc. Windows seemed to continue...

I love my 2005 265 express. When I was looking for mine a bunch of them had soft front decks. The front decks seemed like they got soft from either the legs of the hardtop or the cabin hatch. I didn't find any that had any real structural problems. I bought mine and tore all the through hull...

I decided to re- core the rear deck floor panels while I had my fiberglass supplies out. They were soft and flexed when you walked on them. The main panel weighed around 150#. I struggled just getting it out of the boat and on the table. I used my 4" angle grinder with a metal cut off wheel...

Thanks for the input, sounds like a straight forward project, I will tackle this winter..been doing some research as you suggested,any idea on a recommendation for the caulk to use when putting it back in 3m?..Thanks again for th input..I guess the hardest will be getting the old wood out of...

The easiest but not prettiest way to fill a screw hole is, if possible, use a little fatter screw coated with 4200 or 5200. As long as the original hole is in good shape, this will work fine. If you want to make a flush fix, you first need to make sure that the old hole is clean. That might mean...

Jim thanks for the input. After you drilled out the dowels, were you able to thread the holes so that the SS bolts gripped to put tension on the hatch? I was thinking of using 5200 to glue a washer to the underside of the grommet and then glue a nut to the washer to give me gripping power -...

Jeff, I got tired of messing with the grommets also. A couple of years ago, I took them all out and got some hard wood dowels that fit the holes where the grommets were. I mixed up some fiberglass epoxy and soaked the dowels in it, then epoxied them in the grommet holes. After everything cured...

I have a 2002 330 and have been battling an issue with the lift out hatch for the generator and strainers for the four years I've owned the boat. The only way I have been able to keep water from entering the aft bilge is to caulk around the hatch but it is a royal PITA when I have to get access...

You shouldnt have any issues installing it without screws. Just make sure you prep everything good. Lay some caulk down where the hatch lays then just press it into place. Use a plastic scraper or something of the like to remove any excess that comes out so your left with a nice bead. Have...

most people thoroughly seal the fuel tank coffin hatch cover with silicone caulk so salt water cannot get in. the option of rinsing annually requires resealing annually which requires removal of the old silicone residue. quite a pita. i would only do it if i opened the inspection plates and...

i am just doing this on the centre hatches and replacing deck hatches. i was going to be using the ge silicone 2 almond recommended here as what grady uses, but i am now waiting on a sample to dry because it does not seem to match my older 1994 hull colour. i may have to go to clear silicone...

Glad I just found this post since I'm about to reinstall and caulk the bilge hatch and new deck plate on my (new to me) 89 Seafarer. Then do the same for the gas tank hatch since whomever recaulked it did a horrible job. I just completely replaced the aluminum transom cap and first caulked...