Search results

I went through the same thing when I repowered my GS. Ditched that small pontoon and upgraded to a larger high volume bracket from stainless marine. Jumps on plane at 16kts, I also installed larger trim tabs and believe the extra surface area helps as well. I also lifted the engine up, up, then...

See if you can trace where water's coming in from, check thru hulls / salt deposits best case it's just coming in from above.

@A&J Outdoors this is expected, I know this as I just rebuilt my 98 232 and had to replace some good sections of the bulkheads that were exposed to water(Grady doesn't do an amazing job at sealing ply wood..) My assumption is there's a drain hole in the cabin so you can rinse out the floor etc...

Can't find them anywhere(for the OEM ones). 13 & 1/8" square outer, 11 & 1/8" inner lip, I'm orderin some from boatoutfitters in the seafoam color, will look much better and have a gasket seal.

Depends how well you want to put them back in as well and which tanks you get(how thick gauge aluminum and from where). I would find out the exact specs / dimensions of the tanks from Grady white CS first. While their out I would also recommend replacing the fuel hose to the engines, the fuel...

Bought my first Grady a couple years ago and have been learning from this awesome group since. During that time I've done a full blown refit / re-power on every darn thing I could. What I thought would be a fast process has been slowed down by jobs, kids and life which is all good but I'm...

Be sure you can reach the other side of the hose(the drain coming from the bottom of the fish box). With the foam that is hard to access and I had to cut away a bit to get access to mine. Also it's worth removing the thru hull and re-sealing as that's a known spot to let in water as well.

+1 on the high thrust, the gear ratio and larger prop will have no problem pushing that boat(and I also have a 232).

Recommend taking it apart and bringing the acrylic piece to a local plastic supplier, not sure where you live but I just did all mine at TapPlastics(5 cabin windows) with labor, cutting and drilling holes for $125

Just spoke with Ritchie re: my old compass for a refurb as a heads up, they mentioned a 2-3 month lead time at least and to check out https://www.vikingcompass.com/ricopa.html for a faster turn for out of warranty stuff.

I've seen rubber interlocking mats they use in restaurants/workstations on a few gradys(the ones with holes that allow drainage). Provides a bit of standing relief, anti slip no matter the condition and is easily cuttable for the deck for a couple hundred bucks.

On my 232 the previous owner mounted a plate "on top" of the swim platform. That plate extends off the back of the platform(90 degree bend) with a lip welded on top to mount the outboard. Seems very simple for someone to fab up and has been rock solid. Will send a pic next time I'm at the boat.

One for sale in SoCal. https://www.bdoutdoors.com/forums/threads/2005-grady-white-282-sailfish-76-000.760173/

Thanks Parthery, was trying to find a cost effective route but to get the right thing you have to buy it right the first time and bite the bullet.

JJMag : looks like you're getting some good fish there! Look fwd to seeing the before/after of the bottom paint removal.

I have a 1998 and looking for close to the same. However I'm looking aft starboard and port access hatch 11x11 inner dimension, anybody?

Fishing Around SF

Hey JJMag - I'm in Marin also! And to boot just got my first Grady(232GS). Let's go fishin!

How did the bottom paint removal work out, any pics?

Bumping a old chain in hopes of not starting a redundant thread - as a new Gulstream owner(1998 in excellent condition) I'm in the same position as the poster here. Did anyone end up taking measurements and if so could they kindly post or DM? Thanks so much.