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Ultimately, you have to be the one to decide if it's the right boat for you. But overall, for a small boat, it rides very nice. It has nice, soft re-entry. But obviously don't expect it to perform like a 25' boat. For mild conditions, it will be great - and if the weather chops up, you'll de...

I suppose another possibility is that the throttle linkage isn't opening fully all the time. It could be out of adjustment or there could be a crack in one of the plastic fittings not allowing proper/full range of motion. Compare port to stbd.

To me, it doesn't sound like fuel quality is the issue (with the steps you have taken, anyways).

How does that compare with the WOT specs for you engine? I'm guessing you're at the lower end - but you should double check. If this is the case, you can certainly move up to a higher pitch... but you'll lose hole shot and low speed planing. If you have tabs, that will help with that quite a...

What do your plugs look like? How did you verify that all cylinders are firing?

I have a larger boat and a 2-stroke (see sig), but I get better numbers than that. I run about 25 knots at 3,800RPM, give or take a bit depending on conditions with a similar load, maybe a bit less. That gives me roughly 10GPH. I have the standard Yamaha 3-blade 17" stainless prop. What's...

To double check the vent system, you could run with the fill cap off. But since the bulb was not flat it's unlikely the issue... but of course that isn't a hard and fast rule. Fuel lines can fail internally and create a check valve, of sorts. But that, again, would normally result in a flat...

No, you got it. It's pretty straight forward. Wanna hear something strange? My gauge has never worked. But that's not the weird part. If I let engine move the sender arm... nothing. BUT... if I manually move the sender arm, the gauge responds properly! Weird! Oh well, don't really care...

Spary it down liberally with CRC 6-56 or WD-40. That will help to displace any remaining water. Spin it over a bunch of times, spray again. Most likely you'll be good. If not... then worry. If you can't do the starter by feel/blind, you may have to pull the engine. The good thing is that...

That's just plain unacceptable. It's OK to be busy and not have as much time as you'd like to spend with each customer. But there's no reason you can't be pleasant about it or take a few minutes to walk a guy out to the boat. Talk with him for a few minutes, then excuse yourself to check on...

Yeah, it's not all that uncommon, actually... "John" brings in his 20-year old motor for service work. While the mechanic is working on it, trying to get seized up bolts or such off, something breaks. Now, John wants the shop to replace that broken part for no charge. You can see how this...

I probably mentioned it above, but all you need is nyloc nuts to make it permanent. If you happen to damage it in the future and need to replace it, by using 5200 you run the risk of causing $500 to $1,000 worth of gelcoat damage during removal. But... it's your boat and your call.

Yes. If you can just as easily cut a larger one, do it. Maybe you even have room for a rectangular hatch? If you want, post a couple pics of the proposed area.

Weight-wise, you'll fine - it's not that heavy that it's going to make much of a difference - if even noticeable, at all. As far as reseale, it certainly won't decrease the value. But... does your bimini top currently fold all the way down when you're not using it? You can add rear legs for...

Try Sea Dog or Taylor Made for the manufacturer. Then google for a retailer. Or stop by a local boat store - they should be able to help. Could also try googling for boat wing window latch... or something like that.

This is, of course, my opinion - but it's also based on decades of being in the industry working on and around boats. By no means does that make my opinion more important - it certainly does not. Just clarifying that it does not come from simply spewing internet garbage from some boating forum...

Maybe not, but possibly the next owner might. Or... if he damages the bracket by accident he'd have to remove it. Plus, and I know that you know this, so I'm just mentioning it really for the OP... things on a boat need to be resealed every so often. 5200 is just the wrong thing for this...

You may be doing this blind with one hand - that's often typical in boat maintenance. Is there another access point from inside the boat? Removing a seat, reaching "up and under", etc? Go with Seasick's second recommendation - use something like 4200 or the Boat Life products. Actually, just...

There wouldn't be one in the filler tube or tank elbow. There "may" be one on the bottom of the pickup tube. However, that means the cap seal could possibly get sucked against the pickup tube... IF the seal doesn't float. My guess is it floats - try a similar cap seal in some gas and see what...

Have you tried talking directly to a parts shop, like SIM Yamaha? They may know of a solution. Just wondering if it's actually discontinued or possibly just not currently available or superceded. Have you tried tightening the nut?