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Makes sense - thank you. That's kind of what I've had bouncing around in my head, as far as a "procedure" goes, should the time come to remove my tank.

If you've found drain holes, but they are not draining, then try to clear them... poke/blow air/etc. It should drain to the bow bilge (under the cabin floor) and eventually to the aft bilge. Although sometimes a little water will always be present in the bow/forward bilge given the shape of...

Looks like we were typing at the same time... forget about the kill switch stuff. Something is wired wrong/missing - look around better... or use your phone.

Forgot to mention this... I agree with the statements that some ECU's are quite picky when it comes to proper V. However, this particular ECU is a very basic ECU and is not all that picky. If the engine is turning over, and all other things being "normal", it will start. Something has to be...

On battery #2, turn the ignition "on" but not to "start". You should hear the fuel injection pump energize for a few seconds. Do you? And, check for spark on #1 plug. For good measure, check around the #2 battery for a smaller gauge wire that you missed putting back on.

EFX, quick question... did you use the sawzall on the tank? I've used one on aluminum plenty of times and don't recall it ever making a spark... but on a fuel tank full of gas fumes, I don't think I'd tank that chance. Obviously you didn't blow up, so that's good!!! I guess I'm just wondering...

Is it bad, or just not sticking anymore? A little adhesive sealant would do the trick in that case. Another source for a replacement would be Mcmaster Carr.

Hatches are typically "sold" based on the cut-out hole size. Meaning, a 20" hatch fits into a 20" opening, but the pieces would be smaller. Most likely, that's what you have - a 20" hatch - which is, by far, the most common one out there. Or... install an OceanAir Skyscreen :)

You're right - those little Hondas rarely go on sale. Heck, even lightly used ones can sell for close to that sale price. SailUSVI... just be very, VERY careful using these on a boat. They're not grounded into the electrical system the way a true, built-in machine would be. You also have to...

I'm confused. OP, the only thing you have stated/asked is whether a product designed to clean the inside of the engine is bad for the engine. I'm not sure I'm following the reason for the question, in the first place.

I may be overthinking this, as well, but... -- I'd also be concerned about galvanic corrosion, so having some type of non-metal spacer between the bracket and the cap would be good. -- And, I think I would feel better with flush contact of the bracket to the hull rather than one, sharp point at...

It's been a month and half and haven't heard back from the OP... I think you're safe! :) Yup - visual is pretty much it. They should feel pliable with no cracks. If they're getting "shiny" looking, that's another indicator that it's time to replace. On the other hand, if you don't know when...

Honestly, your best bet is to going to be to hire a reputable surveyor for the hull and possibly a mechanical, as well. Using a moisture meter without having lot's of experience with it isn't very reliable. All those coats of bottom paint can skew it... so can having it recently removed from...

The small fridges we use in smaller boats (30'-wish and under) are quite efficient on 12V power. As noted, they really don't draw all that much juice - and if stock it up full and limit how often you open the door... even better. Many times, I've been away for 3 or 4 days at a time, running...

Yes, paint the bracket - it only helps. Lightly scuff and wipe with acetone (or similar) and you're good to go. If you use an anti-fouling paint without copper/metals in it, then you can use it on both the hull and the bracket. For example, Pettit's Hydrocoat ECO.

That's where I got some for my boxes (never had a gas spring, for what it's worth). I wasn't sure how thick, so I placed Silly Putty on the box edge, then a piece of wax paper on top of the putty, then closed the lid and gently pushed down (NOT hard). That told me how big the gap was and I...

The weight of wires is essentially a non-issue. The weight savings are inconsequential. Just like in a car, converting from the initial 12V system to everything being 120V appliances (fridges, pumps, lights, etc, etc... plus, not all systems are even available as AC-powered) is inefficient...

I would assume that the pipe you see sticking out of the base is for drainage? But I wonder why it was designed like that, instead of simply not using the piece that is below the big "nut"... unless water would be drippping on something it should't be and there was originally a hose attached to...

A, I saw you were questioning the use of a jack under the keel. Just as a side note, in case you were wondering, you won't do ANY damage, whatsoever. It's only a 22' boat - and that keel is plenty strong. I'd probably use a floor jack just because it's more stable, but the keel will be...

Holokai, that's really an entirely different setup given there is no hose. I assume what you have there is similar to lobster-style boats I'm familiar with in Maine. It's basically just a hole in the side of the boat. The water "deflector" is different too - it's really just a deflector...