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First, I agree with the "what's done is done" line of thinking. I don't think the majority of buyers would be scared away - and the more savvy they are, the less scared they would be. But there will be some that will run for the hills - because they don't fully understand what's going on...

I was just going to mention the same thing! This might be the least expensive way to go - even if you got some custom orthotic inserts... which could be used other places, as well. Some type of quick/easy draining footwear and nice orthotic inserts.

I was thinking more about the OP's hatch in my response. But looking at your pictures, one thing I notice right away is how crisp the bottom edge is. Hard/crisp edges like that tend to make chipping like you have even more likely. That bottom edge should be slightly rounded. You'll need to...

Can you post a few pictures?

Yeah, that's about all that would happen - it'll just start to kick sooner. Truth is, epoxy or poly will wick into wood just fine the way it is without doing anything special.

I have never personally seen Dekit - but it is made out of the exact same material as SeaDek. If you skip the teak lines and just go with a flat surface, that help with "cleanability". The rubber-holed mats are easily as soft as SeaDek - if not more forgiving. Just make sure you're looking at...

SeaDek and Dekit are glued down (or snapped). It wouldn't be fair to compare that to a laydown setup. Have you ever personally seen the type of mat I linked to? I have, on some lobster boats. I'm not sure if the one I linked to is the exact ones I've stepped on, but it appears so. As I...

Be careful with gelcoat - the thicker it is applied, the more brittle it becomes. However, you could tint the epoxy or poly resin. Heat the hatch up in the oven or with a heat gun. When the resin is applied, it will thin out and be absorbed further into the core. But if you're digging out...

Bob, since it's not listed in the '85 brochure, try looking in newer brochures. Sometimes newer brochures have more info. As long as the other basic specs are the same, then the deadrise would be the same, as well.

I know on my boat, they're not readily viewable - they're sort of tucked under the deck a bit. I would imagine if you followed the pathway of some existing wires that they would lead you to the tubes?

I certainly don't want you to think that I'm trying to say that the Seadek is "bad" - it is not - it is very nice stuff. But it just sounds like it's not the right product for your use. In this case, I'd be looking to those commercial anti-fatigue mats. You'll want the kind with holes in them...

In the pleasure boat world, it seems to holding up really well. It's a peel-n-stick product so you'd be spending some time removing the residue if you removed it - but the gelcoat should remain unharmed. I can't say how it holds up to serious/regular fishing, though, as I've never come it...

OK. Depending on how bad it is, you may be able to just dig out the bad stuff and fill the cavity with thickened polyester or epoxy mixed with shredded glass. You can even get the stuff ready to go and just mix in the activator... "structural repair compound or filler".

So... the hatches over the gas tank? Storage/fix box lids? I assume you're not talking about a cabin deck hatch, then?

What hatch are you referring to? It's not really a "1995 Grady" issue... it can happen to any boat.

Longer... A couple reasons. The Seadek is slightly "grippy" - "stuff" won't flow over it as nicely/fast as non-skid gelcoat. The second part of this is all of the teak lines trapping stuff. Don't get me wrong, it's not like it's horrible - but there is a noticeable difference. If you're...

And the "previous owner" variable strikes again! :)

Are you doing the install? That can greatly affect the pricing one way or the other and makes it impossible to compare pricing to someone that is doing their own install. The other thing that is jacking your price up is the extra thickness. That adds quite a lot to the price. The "normal"...

The best way to go about this is to simply do the simple math and add up the numbers. You can get the specs online. To the weight of the boat, add the engine/engines, full fuel/water/head, any options over std, batteries and add at least 500lbs for gear/ice/etc. Add another 10% for good...

In addition, no, there are no original wiring harnesses available. You would be making your own as go. There are, however, color codes in the owner's manuals (download from Grady's site). You will (likely) also be dealing with the "previous owner" variable...