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HDPE is good stuff and it has it's merits. But this is not an area where it shines. It is definitely the wrong product for the job. You're welcome to try it out - or just just trust us! :) Beefier rod holders and substantial backing plates will make all the difference in the world. The...

Hi Rick, thanks for posting back. I hope you didn't take my responses too personally - as I mentioned, they weren't direct at you "the person" - just the post. So, what you've added has helped. Can we assume you mean the entire cockpit floor and not just the helm section or a swim platform...

I don't know Rick from Adam - he could be the nicest guy in the world. My reaction/response is only directed at the post - not so much the actual person. But I do feel strongly that we, as a society, are losing our grip on what "society" means - social media is literally ripping apart the...

Check out Carver covers - they manufacture universal fit biminis in a range of sizes, fabrics and fittings. Good, quality product - not over priced. Another good avenue is a local shop that can make it any way you want it.

While I'll give you props for trying to think outside the box, the HDPE "brace" you're thinking about isn't going to help. HDPE is no where near stiff enough to make any difference. It would have to made out of metal - but even then, the hull side can flex quite a bit - so you'd then have to...

"East Penn" manufacturing, not "PA" :) AKA: Deka. I always use Deka and we have used Deka at the store for many decades - definitely top notch. I have a friend who is a plant manager at East Penn and he once verified that the Duracell brand is exactly the same - I asked because sometimes...

Understood. But if you're not familiar with Marelon, it's a very nice product. It's also been in use for many, many decades. It's definitely a "tried and true" thing. That said, if I was installing "new" - I would used bronze. But I absolutely wouldn't change out an existing Marelon piece...

Don't base your assumption on them not being original because of their orientation. You'd then also have to assume that the guy at the factory knew what to do. That's a lot of assumption.

Although I still think that water intrusion/corrosion (even a slight bit) may be a factor, I was thinking more about it this morning and... ProMariner doesn't supply the fuse/wire for this since they don't know how close to the battery the charger will be. That is supplied/installed by the boat...

One caveat to this (correct) statement... unless they are made of Marelon, which is a special, USCG approved "plastic".

It really all comes down to personal preference and whether you want to spend the time putting the cover on each Fall, removing in the Spring and storing. Count on a couple hours, minimum, for that each time. Both methods can work equally well. Both methods can be setup to allow you to get in...

Interesting to hear about a second, similar case. All I can say is that this is very much "not" the norm - but interesting. I have owned a couple PM 30-amp chargers (ProNautic model) and am very, VERY familiar with them. In fact, I have experience with, literally, a couple hundred of them...

First... welcome aboard, Rick. I wrote my first reply somewhat sarcastically :) Your first post here on this board is short and demanding information - not even a "hi - glad I found this forum kind of thing". We are not computers - we are real live people. We respond better to being treated...

Depends

There was likely corrosion or frayed wires inside the wiring at the connection of the fuse holder. That would cause heat buildup. Glass fuses will work just fine - the actual switching to an ATC style fuse wasn't the solution, per se. It was that the wiring was replaced.

First, there's no such thing as "best" - just don't get cheapie "trickle chargers" as they can still cook a battery. For me, I've been using the Battery Minder brand stuff (the little 1a or 1.5a ones) as they also desulphate. I've got about 8 of them for various things - some of the chargers...

That's OK, I don't need to see a picture of the glass - I'm pretty familiar with what that would look like! It just seemed like you omitted that step. I've never vacuum bagged anything... so that was able to pull the glass down tight over those 90* edges? No bubbles?

But, where is the bottom layer of glass? In the picture, it doesn't look like there is a layer of glass on the foam.

Tap the hole to next size bolt.

If you don't see it listed in another part of the manual, such as a section where it shows the physical layout of various parts, just pour enough water down the drain till it turns on and listen for the sound. It can't be too hard to find - it's gotta be somewhere accessible and lower than the...