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Not to get off topic, but SeeVee, do you ever open the windows? Personally, I never have. Another option would be to use some black LifeCaulk and glue a piece in place - basically like a car's windshield. Then run another small bead on the outside to give a smooth appearance.

It's amazing how something so simple looking works so well, you know?

Thank you.

#1, as mentioned, do what's best for your family and your wonderful kid. They say pictures are worth a thousand words - but he just LOOKS like he has a big heart! Besides, I bet Proud Papa wouldn't be sharing a picture if he didn't! :) But... if it's fixed properly, there would be no reason...

Very nice! Can't argue with the cost, either! Just out of curiosity, I've heard local glass shops can cut flat glass relatively inexpensive. But I wonder how that price changes when using safety glass? Want a buy a new tool? Get yourself a "step" drill bit. They are WONDERFUL for drilling...

There's lot's of good trailer brands out there and there really isn't a "best" trailer. But what might be more important is finding a good, local dealer. Maybe take a look around and see what's available and then post those options?

Joe, this might be a silly question, but do you know what "trimming" an engine means? If so, can you explain your trimming procedure - use as much detail as you can think of. What were the RPM's (max) with the 150HP?

Rollers vs bunks is mostly a personal preference as both can work well for your boat. Much of it depends on what you are used to and/or how you use the boat. You'll need to decide based on what works best for you - here are some items to consider: -- Al vs GV: Aluminum looks nicer and is...

In my opinion... it doesn't matter to me what a particular manufacturer might do as that isn't always driven by "logic"... ;) Now, this is just my opinion, but with twin engines and an honest need for a house system (high 12V demand when the engines are off), I would want (1) starting battery...

OK - that's a very important piece to the puzzle. Nothing else is valid without doing that. Don't just trim up a little - do it the way I mentioned.

OK, so you double checked and it's definitely a 6,000 max spec, right? You mentioned you weren't trimming up. Have you corrected that? Meaning, you have to keep trimming up till speed no longer increases or the prop starts to ventilate (or you going to high over the max rpm). Are you...

What does that area feel like to your hand? How about acetone - does it remove some of the coloring? In general, though, "real" damage to a keel tends to be pretty obvious. The keel of a boat is VERY strong - for it to be actually damaged takes a VERY big hit. Nothing that I see looks like...

Is that actual damage or simply "rub" marks from the trailer crossmember pad? From the picture, I can't tell that there's actually any damage.

Are you sure about that 5,500? I just double checked on Yamaha's website and it definitely lists it at 6,000. OK - do the test again, but keep trimming up. If the engine is mounted properly, you may get to the point where you reach the 6,000 (assuming, again) and still have trim and/or...

You said "strokes", as in plural... I assume you just mean one engine, though, correct? Something's not jiving - it's not your prop. Your engine's max RPM is probably 6,000 - can you confirm? I suspect you either have the engine mounted too low or you're not trimming the engine up enough as...

OK, now that right there is funny! I was just logging back on to see if you had a local marine store that would order from MESCO since I see you are in NJ. MESCO doesn't charge any shipping on oversize items when they take them directly to one of their stores on their route. I work at boat...

Tidbit of info... You don't have to have a full 48"x48" sheet. You can use multiple, smaller pieces with absolutely no effect on structural integrity. With that in mind, ordering smaller pieces from a company like Jamestown Distributors would keep the shipping costs to minimal. If you can't...

Just an fyi... the core material, itself, does not give the panel it's strength. It's the separation of the top and bottom layer and the ability of the core to "grip" the resin that gives strength. I'm not saying this to convince you to use the foamboard - but discounting it for the "strength"...

Agree on price, FIRST... contingent on the results of a survey.

Yup - just cut 'em out. Sometimes the simplest solution is not always the first one we think of. I like beeswax, as well - as opposed to some type of lube since beeswax is dry and won't attract/collect dust/debris/etc.