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"Fender board". I could sit here and type up how to do this, but I'm going to take the easy way out and just suggest you google for how to make one. I have no doubt there are videos out there on how to do this. The trick is going to be dealing with your bow flair where a typical fender...

There's a plate on the fuel tank that will tell you the gallons. Or, look in your owner's manual - or download it on Grady's site. Boat sending units aren't known for being super accurate, but they are generally consistent. For example, 50% on the gauge usually doesn't mean 50% in the tank...

It seems highly unlikely that about 20 extra pounds is going to make that difference in a 33' boat. I doubt it would even do it in a 20' boat. I'm not sure what you mean by "regular" batteries, but you can check the specs on Deka's website (east penn manufacturing) and see what the real...

Plus, it becomes one of those "while you're in there" things and you end up rebuilding every seal and miniscule o-ring you can find... When you get a chance - for fun, take a look at this parts diagram...

If rebuilding the manual release/bypass doesn't work (you have to remove the circlip to get it all the way out), you're looking at rebuilding the guts. Inside, there are many, MANY seals/o-rings/springs/check balls. Fluid can leak internally past the internal seals and imitate what happens by...

And, if you look at these new vents (at least all the ones I've seen), you may not even know it's a vent - it kinda looks like a stainless steel bullseye.

I don't know about "all", but with the EPA carbon canisters (fume collectors) many boats are back to using a separate vent on the hull side. Just a side note :)

With a following sea, you have to trim up pretty high to keep from stuffing the bow and/or bow steer. Retract the tabs completely and trim the engines up - probably higher than you might think. Controlling throttle is another key - backing off on the way down and throttling up on the way back...

The problem I see with using those existing snaps is that they won't actually keep the strap snapped down. As soon as the bow bounces enough to pop the bimini up, it will simply unsnap. I like your idea of putting it on the side of the cabin - but at the same time, the white stud is pretty...

I think you have a very fair request - something is obviously done incorrectly. But, yes, I agree with the diplomatic approach. There's no reason to be "that guy" where the guys at the dealership cringe when you walk in! :) If you flipped the boot cover around... that would solve the problem...

Just a side note about the macerator/overboard discharge... It is illegal to dump within 3 miles of shore - in some places even further out. In addition, the seacock is supposed to be closed and locked when within an illegal discharge zone to prevent... wait for it... accidental discharge! :)...

I'm still not saying it "is" for a barbecue, but often owner's will keep things like that for their next boat - but they will leave the mount because it's cheaper and easier to buy a new mount than to fix the hole. Speaking of previous owners... can you contact the guy you bought the boat from...

OK, so the assumption would be that the notch is to keep something from rotating... as I state the obvious... Anything on the boat in some compartment somewhere that fits in there? Kuuma is another brand of grills, but I'm not real familiar with them and their mounts.

Well, maybe this isn't intuitive, but have you thought about asking your dealer to rectify the situation and fix it? It's really a pretty simple job - holes can easily be fixed, sewn things are easily remedied, as well. What else would the solution be, except to make it right? You know that...

Chop... OK, that makes sense. I was only thinking of "air". But I can see how how chop (momentum) could pick it up a bit - especially up in the bow where the largest amount of bouncing happens. But, regardless, the strap is the wrong way. Re-mount the stud in a more approprate spot. The way...

That's definitely not a Magma grill mount - I'm familiar with all of them. I'm not sure what it is, though - it "could" be some other brand of grill mount, but boy, it sure does seem awful big for that. Is there any type of "keyway" built into it? Or is the hole perfectly round all the way...

It sounds like you are using the windlass to hold you at anchor. Is that model rated for that? Most are specifically NOT rated for that. See what it looks like when you pull it apart. Lewmar makes good stuff, though. Good makes excellent windlasses. Made in the USA, too.

Seems like I might be stating the obvious, but... rotate the white, plastic piece. But... why does it even need a strap? There's no way that boat goes fast enough to lift the bimini up. I can't even imagine it doing it during trailering. Besides, if that's the purpose of the strap, the strap...

Bronze is pretty much the most durable metal you can get. Even better than SS. The only "problem" is that it turns green (verdigris) with age because of the copper in it -- think: Statue of Liberty. However, it's not really a problem functionally as this is it's natural way of protecting...

Most, if not all of the base measurements you are asking about are typically in the owner's manuals. You can download them from Grady's website. If there's something missing, reach out to Grady - they are usually very good about answering questions like this. This would get you your "starting...