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Rope ladders are a royal pain in the butt. As soon as you put your foot on them they swing away from you putting a whole lot more weight onto your upper body. Plus they can twist underneath you. And, you'll still be relying heavily on grabbing the rail (lot's of stress on the rail) - probably...

Aside the person getting hurt, that would be awful funny to watch!

Mike, just a quick suggestion... the bow roller bracket is angled up quite high. The boat has the opportunity to put a lot of "leverage" type stress onto the bracket and bend it. But if you slide the winch mount upwards, you should be able to get that roller bracket straight/level (or close to...

The fluke style - which works in plenty of other bottoms than just sand - is dependent more on the size of the flukes, than weight. The weight, however will help a fluke in a weedy bottom where it sometimes like to float over top of the weeds otherwise. A 14lb plow style anchor should be more...

Unfortunately (fortunately?) I've seen more than my fair share of voids! Yes, it happens exactly as you said - inside corners (in the mold) don't always get all of the air rolled/squeezed out. The air can get trapped in the glass, as well - or maybe not enough resin was pushed in to fully...

As others mentioned, it is much, MUCH easier (even for someone experienced in this) to mess with the seat, itself, than to re-position the deck mount. Once you get the slider working again, it's possible that you'll be able to rotate the seat with a combination of sliding fore/aft while rotating.

Agreed agreed agreed (whether aluminum or steel). Do not put this trailer back on the road. Worse things can happen. And I suspect that should he later have an incident, that the insurance company will find any way they can to get out of it as this could be considered negligence. He might be...

Looks good enough for now. Keep an eye on it to see if it pops back out. With the better pictures, they definitely look like air voids. It was just a matter of time till they popped. There may be others - you can sometimes find them by noticing a slightly dented area or very small cracks in...

It looks like air voids. This is more common than many think and can happen with any boat manufacturer. Often times, it's just a matter of time until the right scenario happens and the gelcoat pops off. For example, #1 appears to be caused (of "opened up) by a roller from a roller trailer...

Check out the Original Swiveler.

It all depends on the particular 1/2 ton truck... model year, how it's equipped (engine/transmission/axle ratio, etc), your expeience, etc. Some trucks will be just fine, some will struggle. The best answer is as mentioned above - do the math. Yes... you have to do some math! :)

If I read correctly, you ran on a portable tank and never had an issue? That eliminates anything on the engine side. Seasick mentioned above about running with the fuel cap off. If you didn't try that already, try that if you have another issue while running the engine. If a clogged vent...

Off hand, no. But go to GW's website and you can pull up an archived brochure or owner's manual. Those should tell you.

Sure, it could be either of those things. Could also be a clogged filter or faucets/aerators. Could be bad/dirty/broken wires/connectors at switch/pump/anywhere in between. Start with the easy things.

When you break it down, it's just basic construction. You'll want to add a backer plate for the pedestal base as you don't want to simply screw into the floor. You can do this by cutting a hole underneath where the center of the pedestal will be and then inserting a flat "ring" backer plate...

Pretty normal for most boats. Can't really fight wind and current. I've often wondered if a bridle setup with a pulley would make any difference, though. If this is just "lunch" anchoring, you could set a stern anchor to keep you in one spot. This should not be done overnight, though.

A 9.9 will get the job done - with the obvious limitation that it has compared to the size/weight of the boat. But check out the specs for the bracket and buy the biggest OB it (and your pocket book) will allow.

Along the lines of what Seasick mentioned - the mechanic may have simply forgotten to put the charging lead on #1. Look for a medium-sized, red wire not connected to anything.

Try backing the screw out only most of the way then rock the screw back and forth to "unstick" the anode. You might try, gently, prying with a screwdriver between the anode and the surrounding lip - but again, gently. You could also try gently tapping the anode with a hammer and a long...

Yup, agree - blistered. It's fixable, but there's a lot of time and labor involved there. On the other hand, if you're only going to be trailer boating, it's not as big of a deal and you can run the boat like that for many, many years - assuming, as mentioned above, you buy it for the right...