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That's a good thought, but it's got a flaw. IF it was changed, it could have been changed and the wrong sized breaker put in there - for example, an oversized breaker. The end result is that it no longer protects the wiring as it should and could lead to a fire. So, really, you should double...

That's too bad, Russ. You definitely need to get some on-water time! It's not a Venture trailer, is it? Check with a good welder - they may be able to cut and re-weld to make it true. OR... if the axle is bolted on... is it possible that the axle just slipped/slid along the frame rail a...

And... it only takes a few minutes to pull a sender out and check it for model ID or measure the tank. Just match-mark the sender to the tank, first. So it's not like you're really saving any time. It's a quick check. Plan on replacing - I don't even know, off hand, if there's anything...

If he was so confident, shoulda bet him some money and see if he changed his answer... or was "persistent" enough (that's a nicer term than ignorant!) to take the bet.

Can't say I've ever looked there for that. Not that removing a few screws to tile the panel out is hard, but that's a good tip!

Wow. It's good you walked away. You can't argue with ignorance. So... if he uses the bleed valves to pump grease into, what does he pump into the actual zerk fittings? Blinker light fluid?

You're welcome, Cappie! Probably that Loctite would work just as well - they make good stuff.

Aside from what was mentioned above by just looking in your manual (or downloading it)... Dude, you have like what, six little phillips head screws to remove so you can pull the panel and physically look at the breaker? :) It'll take you less time to do that than it took all of us to make these...

It's on the lighter side, sure. But a big factor is how YOU are going to use the boat. What is "needed" for one person and the way they use the boat is not necessarily what you need. You said you "are buying it"... what were your thoughts after the test ride? How many people were onboard...

Yeah, it's always kinda hit or miss to how well a seam seal will work. BUT, I have used VLP Vinyl repair - it's under $10 and is clear - and I've actually had really good luck with it. I think you'd have a pretty good shot of this working for you. Here's some tips from what I've learned over...

Do it. If you get questioned, hopefully it's after you're done! And if so, just play dumb. I don't know about you, but I do that last part quite well... it's almost like I'm not even trying... ;)

This should be easy to unclog - it's close to a straight shot through the side of the boat. Tip... if you flush it from the outside... have someone loosely hold a towel over the drain hole. If there's something gunky in there it will save you from having to clean it up! Or... DON'T say...

If you're looking for a one-stop, easy answer - that's going to be your dealer. Otherwise, you first have to determine (hands/eyes on... at least the hoses, anyways) the quantity and size of the thru-hulls you need. Once you know the sizes, they should all be readily available just about anywhere.

That sounds like a GREAT day on the boat!

If it's small enough and does the job, I can guarantee you that the air void won't care! Beware, though... sometimes the air voids are 3x bigger than what you think. You need to grind back to where there is solid adhesion between the gel and the glass. And leave a shallow, bevelled edge...

Ain't nothing wrong with that! On my last boat, a 28' Sea Ray cruiser, it had bottom paint (I was the second owner) but I trailered it. So I didn't really need the bottom paint. I just let it keep wearing off, but I wanted it to look nice around the water line. A couple times, I just used...

"If" the repair is visible... an even easier solution is to just use some white paint :)

There 'ya go - that's a perfect description. Yup, air void. It's most common in outside corners/edges given how the panel was made. When it was made, this was actually an inside corner/edge. The first step to making the hatch is to apply the gelcoat to the inside of the mold - that usually...

That'll work, too. But don't go out of your way to get it. If you already have that other stuff you mentioned, just use it. It will be MORE than adequate for what you are doing. Many will not even take this step and just use sealant. That said, if you don't have anything already on hand, sure.

A picture would help tremendously, but as I read the post it sounds like the area is covered up by the sealant that goes around the perimeter. It also sounds not like an installation error, but a somewhat common error in glass layup called an air void. Basically, an air pocket. Since you're...