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You're right that under normal circumstances, the HW pump should not be needed. And also right that if something catastrophic happens, those bilge pumps aren't enough. They could, however, give you just enough time to get back to shore. There's so many "in between" scenarios between no leak...

Personally, I'm not sure - without looking at the archives on Grady's website, anyways. Maybe check that? Just look through the past model year brochures. I'd do it... but then I'd be doing your homework for you! :)

SeaDog has one - and I've personally used them. Good stuff, not expensive: https://sea-dog.com/groups/3242-toggle-pin-lanyard-straight You know, looking at that pin again, I'm not sure how the spring is "captured"... but I can tell you that I have NEVER had a spring pop off on me. 27-year old...

Yup - lot's of options out there! FYI, the "spring" shouldn't self launch - maybe that was a glitch or a cheap version. All of the ones I've used (which is many!) have a "captured" spring so it doesn't come off. Thumb screws are OK, but they become a pain, too. They often seem to tighten up...

Sure, Brian, you could replace the transom core from the outside. I've done it on a couple boats - not a Grady, but a boat is a boat is a boat, you know? It's pretty straight forward, although time consuming, project. But essentially, you "skin" the transom. Remove the rubrail from the...

Reeleasy, I certainly feel for you and know how disheartening this must be. But I do want to point out that the construction method of using balsa core in the hull sides and the thickness of the fiberglass skin is not the problem - that is a completely sound way to build a boat and would...

First, verify that it actually is listing. Since you're only basing this on the scuppers... even though the scuppers "should" be even... put a level on the transom seat or the bracket just to be sure. It doesn't take much to cause a (relatively) narrow beam boat to list - but it you're sure...

Easiest would be to have a local upholsterer make them. If you sleep on the boat, or plan to, this is a good time to upgrade the foam - you can go to a better foam and even a thicker foam, if you want.

You said it - it's called Life Caulk ;) The two main products by BoatLife are Life Seal and Life Caulk. Over the past 15 years, those are pretty much the only two sealant/adhesive products I have been using, anymore. I find one of those two products works for any project I have going.

So, what you're saying is that you have a half-day's worth of typical boat maintenance still ahead of you :)

I say modify it to suit your needs. There's absolutely no monetary (re-sale) value to keep it original. From what I understand the reason those current latches "release" is in case someone forgets to put the door down when tilting the engine up. Now, spend the 5 minutes it takes to pop the...

I like the reasoning behind mounting the HW pump a couple inches higher than the regular pump simply to keep it out of the bilge "mess". But, a bilge really shouldn't be messy - cleaning the bilge is just part of boating. But it' still a good idea, none the less. The switch could be even...

You can paint the inside of the scupper - I do that. Slop it in there with whatever you have lying around that can reach in. Or, try balancing the boatload a little better - it might even things out just enough that it gets that scupper out of the water without putting the other one in it...

Actually, those plywood squares aren't "scrap" pieces - Grady designed it that way to help eliminate moisture transmission. But, there are any number of ways to properly rebuild it. You can do the same idea. You can use one sheet of plywood - either regular that's fully pre-saturated with...

All solid ideas on how to try and save that 5200 for later use. Never tried that vaseline trick, though! But... more importantly, I want to ditto Half mentioned. 5200 is absolutely the WRONG product for this application. 5200 often gets touted, out there in "internet land", as the be-all...

Did you run it yet? If you did, did you... -- Run the blower for at least 4 minutes and/or open the hatch and smell for fuel? -- Trim the drive down into the safe range to avoid damaging the driveshaft? -- Verify there is a good flow of water exiting the drive? You probably have an Alpha...

The Grady now stays in ME (bought it in DE). But I have other boats with similar dimensions (some smaller, some a bit bigger) that I tow, as well. I tow the East coast from MD to ME. There's some pretty good inclines throughout that - flatter down by MD, but plenty of 6% grades up North. The...

Yes, whether 2x or 6x on the flats, they follow the hull. Because that rear support is not pivoting, it's basically creating a 3' length where no bending/curvature is allowed - which then creates less length to where the wood can naturally bend. I'm looking at your first picture again... it...

For the most part, a hull is a hull is a hull and it's really no different than all of the ones I've set up in the past. Lowering the rear or raising the front supports would definitely help - but if you need the clearance, then that's different. One more thing I just noticed - that rear...

Overthinking? No. While I don't know if I'd call it "standard" practice, it's certainly something that is common... and definitely can't hurt to do it! Speaking of "overthinking" that really is NOT overthinking... Do you also have bungs/plugs/Sta-Plug/Stay afloat/toilet bowl wax ring -...