Search results

Russ, can you be more specific as to which anodes you're talking about or what you mean by "tricks"? They're usually pretty straight forward, which is why I'm wondering what you're getting at - as it may be something that I'm not thinking of. For replacement time... when they're about halfway...

I forget things once in a while, too... I think... Well, now I'm not sure - I don't remember.

With your size boat, either a single or a double can work. Strong cases can be made either way. A lot of this will come down to personal preference. One thing I noticed on those dual axles you listed... you listed model numbers with brakes on only one axle. Best to get brakes on both. In...

You have a 30a system, right (30a main connection from the dockside power)? 30a breaker. :) I can't imagine needing a 50a for the load that boat has.

I'm not sure what your friend means by "get a kit" if the power unit has failed. When I think of "kits", I think of o-rings for the rams. Generally speaking, the system is extremely reliable. I'd be sure to check it out thoroughly and properly before just replacing things. I'd be more...

Me? Unless you're having an issue or know you have been running in shallow/sandy water a lot... I wouldn't be changing the impeller yet. Those Yamaha impellers seem to last for a long, long time. Actually, I can't say I've ever found the need to replace an impeller (other than anticipated...

I just searched CL and found it on the Wash DC Craigslist. That boat is CLEARLY not in DC - it looks like Florida (the grass and the trees). It's also now a different picture. I've seen this before with other boats. Some shyster grabs a picture from someone else's ad or somewhere on the net...

Trailer... well that's just it - you have to see what needs replacing, if anything, before making a decision. To just assume that an older trailer is not worth it would be a waste. Like I said... if it's good, it's good. 10K... yeah, you'll be fine. After that, it's what you're comfortable...

Russ, take a look at the West System (NOT West Marine, fyi) "how to's" they have on their website. Another good place to look is Andy Miller from Boatworks Today - if you google that, you'll find his website. He owns a repair shop in Wisconsin and does a lot of how-to videos. Very nice, down...

Ah. I see it, now. Was it colored blue before? I missed it. All I saw was a bunch of white space where I thought a picture should be. I don't know that I'd trust that for below the waterline. "Waterproof" above the waterline is different than below the waterline. That said, I've never had...

Why "a brand new trailer"? If the used trailer is good, it's good. Save your money. Like anything else, just check it out well (frame, brakes, tires, axles, bearings, lights, etc) - or hire someone to do it for you - it's not that costly. What is your particular Tundra rated to pull? There...

There is no one best way. In addition to that foamboard, I've used plywood and Coosa. All good.

If only Grady would have done that, I would not have had to replace my entire floor. The water spread quite nicely from piece to piece to piece... Funny, though, I had always heard that the reason that Grady did that was because, on a production scale, it made it quicker to build the boats as...

All sounds good, but you don't need to spend that much on the concrete - it doesn't have to be as thick as you are thinking - certainly not 2' thick. 6" is plenty. You can use the 4000psi concrete instead of the regular 3000psi - and you can also add fiber to the cement. Supposedly the fiber...

Actually, from my experience with those, they are so slick that they don't really get all that dirty. If you get scratches in them, then the scratches will hold dirt. You can clean the step areas with a short bristled brush. As far as protecting them from UV, they seem to hold up really well...

So... you found "nothing"? :) All you need is a simple clamshell. The clamshell captures the cable to keep it somewhat stationary and also gives a much larger area for more sealant. Don't forget to epoxy the clamshell screw holes. Ideally, oversize drill the hole, fill completely with epoxy...

Not really. The accumulator is not the issue, unless it's leaking outwards (leaking internally shouldn't affect anything as it basically just becomes an empty tank that gets filled up - essentially just another water line). But if it was leaking outwards, then the issue would be happening all...

Often times, the filter is built into the pump. There are typically two styles - the first one is a round, clear, spin-off cap - you should readily see that and identify it as a filter. The other is a square, pop-up style (often black in color, with a blue button to release the screen). Check...

In and ideal world, you'd drill a hole above the waterline. But if you can't do it, you can't do it. The only option is to bring the cable around the back end and up to another spot which is above the waterline. Would look pretty shoddy, though. But that's your call. That's about it for...

You don't need to spend the extra time in cutting the wood into small squares. But if you do, it's not a problem - and no, they don't even have to be perfectly lined up to each other - a gap will make no difference, either The core is really not the strength of the panel. The core separates...