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Yeah, I've never had good luck with spray on paint for the engines. If you switch to the Hydrocoat "ECO", you can use that on both the hull AND the drive. I try to make things easy (when possible!)... one paint that does everything. For me, in my waters, it seems to work just as well. Give...

I am not so lucky. I waited a few years (after purchasing the boat... but impeller was recently changed before I bought it) to drop the lower. No go. The driveshaft is seized into the crank. My last recourse will be to cut the driveshaft. Lesson learned... in the future, drop it once a year...

I guess it's just the rubber cap getting old and stretched out? Yeah, if there's enough room for a zip tie, that sounds like an easy solution. Another idea, since the cap really isn't removed all that often, is to put a coat of something like Merc's Perfect Seal on the lip of the plastic to...

Nice thing about a stainless insert is that you can sand/compound/buff. If they're light enough scratches, they'll disappear. If they're heavy scratches, they'll at least get less noticeable. However, another nice feature is that you can replace just a short section since it's screwed in.

That just means someone other than you is doing the bending :) That must be part of the "custom" fee that jacks the price! Don't worry, it's easy to do with a heat gun. Can Taco get you (or send you to a retailer) that "Grady" blue, but just in a roll? The only boneyard I know of is Flounder...

I suppose the obvious question is why is this on you to track down? Shouldn't this be on the insurance company of your neighbor's boat and the company (your dealer) to work out? That aside... I don't know this for sure, by Taco Marine makes a lot of the rubrails for companies. The difference...

I don't disagree that larger pieces than 8" could work. I'm not a pro, but I will say that I had a heck of time getting the air bubbles out from a 2'x2' hatch I made. I ended up drilling a bunch of 1" holes in the wood, then filled the holes with thickened epoxy before putting a layer of glass...

The only logical explanation I've ever heard is that it's to avoid air bubbles between the wood and the the fiberglass panel. I can personally verify that this happens and is sometimes hard to control/avoid. Using the small pieces allows you work out any trapped air much easier.

Did this as an experiment... pink foamboard insulation from Home depot:

Makes sense. I'll have to give a try next season - just for kicks!

Looked at my wiring diagram and it jives (as you mentioned) with what you were saying. The manual switch has it's own ECU entry port and it looks like the switch grabs a ground through the 10-pin connector. What I don't know is the programming built into the ECU. Meaning... if the tank is...

Ha! :) I just remembered why I thought what I did... I once tried using the bypass switch just for fun. But nothing happened. However, in retrospect, I may not have held the switch long enough... and, quite honestly, I don't recall if the engine was running or not while I did that (or if it...

Oh, believe me, I COMPLETELY agree that that's the way it should be... but logic and Mother Yamaha don't always go together! :) You're probably right, though.

Hmmm. I'll have to take a look at the diagram, too. I'd physically try it out, but the boat is 500 miles away right now!

Another quick thought... I don't know anything about those AC units, but... do they have to remain upright during transporation. If not, that makes it easier as you can toss it in the midberth and just make sure it doesn't start rolling around.

You got it. It does confusing - given the two descriptions are so close. Those boats would absolutely have a solid FRP hull.

I assume you are referring to a "shoot" through hull ducer? A "through hull" would entail drilling a larger hole. If that's the case, then yes. You don't mention the model, but I believe all Grady's have a solid FRP hull bottom. "Maybe" the bigger ones are cored - not sure.

OK, so this just needs to be shored up for travelling. That makes things easier. Sleeping bags are a good idea. Pillows, foam, etc, too. Here's what you can do pretty easily, without drilling any holes... -- Use your sleeping bag between the unit and that opened cubby (under the steps)...

I think... but correct me if I'm wrong... that the toggle switch doesn't activate the pump if the main tank is full (or the floats are stuck in the up position, imitating a full tank).

Another thing to look at (after first checking for motor sound since that is the easiest thing)... the floats in the main tank could be stuck - essentially tricking the system into thinking it's full. Probably not as likely as other possible culprits, but just something to be aware of. You'll...