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I think my definition of "just recently" might be different than yours :) Common sources of water leak are: -- Fuel cap (deteriorated o-ring/no o-ring) -- Fuel sender seal bad... water can get there from a leaking hatch seal and/or condensation -- Corroded gas tank How much fuel? If it's a...

Your second picture... can you take that again, holding the tab in the same orientation, but rotate your body clockwise 90*?

Looking at the first picture you have (with your leg), it appears that the hinge end of the tab is by your leg. So, in essence, our "view" is from behind the tab and it would be attached to the boat where your leg is. However, what is confusing is the 'drop tab' in your right hand. The angle...

You're right on the WLL vs Max/breaking strength. Honestly, I didn't look at that link close enough - just saw that it was yellow. I do know that the one I bought was made by Fulton as is referred to as a 10K strap - but pretty much all manufacturer's refer to their products using the breaking...

If your winch is fine, just replace the strap. I'd stick with the strap, as well - for the same reason KY mentioned. Those cables have a way of biting you when you least expect it. I used that same strap that Glacier linked to on my Sea Ray cruiser - MORE than strong enough. FYI... straps...

Running a permanent plug isn't all that hard - down the engine bay and under the truck to the bumper. For the times when I'm using someone else's truck, I have also made up a simple harness with alligator clips on the end. Either carry a battery in the back of the truck to attach to, or make...

First, I'd check for low spots. It may be as simple as zip tying the line better to allow for drainage. The other "first" thing would be to check the vent, itself. If you get to the point of snaking the lines, definitely do what was suggested above and disconnect from the tank, first. At...

Definitely get Bennett involved. They're a good company and would want to know and try to help figure it out. It's possible that you may, at least, be able to tell if the damage happened by something pushing up on the tab, or something that pushed down on the tab. The way it's bent/damaged...

There's either a clog in the vent or fill line, or a low spot in the vent line - which collects fuel and acts as a temporary clog. The vent line could be clogged enough to not allow a huge inrush of fuel/outrush of air, yet not enough of a clog so as to still allow the small amount of air...

Do you often backup hard with the tabs still extended, by chance?

You might be able to figure it out by looking at the wiring diagrams in your manual. But I find it odd, anymore, that a manufacturer would go to the expense of pre-wiring for an optional accessory that the boat doesn't have. That switch, the associated wiring and the labor adds up quick when...

That's a heavy duty circuit breaker. What do the two wires go to? FYI... looks like you have a bunch of wires/cables not attached to your batteries (or properly).

I power load with both - even much larger boats. Those bunk slicks I mentioned make it even easier with bunks. However, a lot of this depends on the area and the ramp. If it's a short cement ramp with gravel, then you really can't do it as the constant prop thrust creates a raised mound just...

It's probably not a "true" warranty issue - the same way an oxidizing gelcoat is not a warranty issue. It probably falls more under a maintenance item. However, given it's only a year old, they may very well take care of it for you at no charge. It's certainly worth contacting them. My...

Check the MSDS - does it have either of the two chemicals listed above?

Actually, that estimate is about on par. Materials aren't the issue - it's just a lot of labor. If you think it's safe enough to run for now, you could just goop up the crack with a good sealant for the time being. FYI, you're in the same "boat" as a lot of people looking at decades old...

Make sure you're pulling pretty hard on the motor. But, what I expect to happen is what you are seeing... water gets into the crack (and, based on the opening of the crack, the transom HAS flexed), seeps down to the bottom and the rot starts from there. I wouldn't want to guess one way or the...

It's hard to say if those cracks are indicative of a "must repair now" thing, especially just by looking at pics. But they are large enough that I would want to check things out better. Check for moisture and soft/dead spots in the transom - all the way down to the transom keel. Tilt the...

Stainless steel stains "less" than other metals. It resists staining when exposed to air, but in those small gaps, water collects and air doesn't get to the metal... and then you get the rust weeping out. There are a myriad of products out there that will quickly and easily take that off...

You're in NJ, so it's not required, but I'd strongly suggest brakes on both axles - just in case they are quoting you on one axle, only. FYI, EOH (Electric Over Hydraulic) doesn't have any exposed "electric" like a regular electric brake setup would. It still uses hydraulically actuated disc...