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I've used boats of that size to ski. Yes, the wake will be quite large. Typically you'll just need a lot of trim and full tabs, but it can certainly be done. Make sure your credit card is in good standing for the fuel you're going to use! :)

Hey, I'm not even ALLOWED to stay at a HIE! ;)

"Turning on" the hot water heater only turns the electric element on to heat it up. It has nothing to do with water supply. On a side note, NEVER turn the heater on without it being full or you'll burn up the element. So, yes, the first place the water goes when turning on the pump is to fill...

Are you sure you weren't doing your math after that 3rd rum and coke? :) Boat: 3510 Engine: 500 92g tank: 600 (4) Batt's: 240 Trailer: 1,000 Water: 65 Gear/misc/etc: 500 Hardtop: 250 Total: 6,665 Aux gas tank: 365

Good thought. If there's a hot water heater, that has to be filled before it comes out of the faucets. But if the transom shower's line is situated upstream the hot water heater, it could be getting some water through it, although probably not as much as it should.

Specs on Grady's website - assuming you can add properly :) -- will be close enough as to make no difference. Besides, how do you know somebody reporting their weight is accurately reporting it? Nothing against anyone in particular here, but there's more variables when relying on one of us Joe...

If you go to Grady's website, you can do all the calculations based on the specs of the boat easily enough and get an accurate assessment of the weight. The only thing you wouldn't know from Grady's website would be engine(s) weight, which is easy enough to find - or just figure 500lbs per...

Are you positive that the boat doesn't have a wood-cored deck? Reason I ask is that water intrusion/soft deck in that area (sounds like it's by the scupper drains?) would just be a more likely/common scenario than a delam of the gelcoat over fiberglass.

Have you tried removing the aerators at the faucets in question? There's always the possibility that they are severely gunked up.

Good deal. That's why it's good to always start at the beginning and check for proper power. So... the orange wire has it's own, inline fuse? The orange wire is not connected to a fuse in the fuse block?

That's a good idea about pulling the connector instead of "pushing" it, so to speak. Also wrap tape around the connector to create a smooth transition. Silicone spray is another lube that can help. It may end up being easier to just spend a few minutes to disconnect everything on the engine...

Go back to the fuse panel and look for that orange, 10g wire. Check for power on the load side. Let's start there. What did you use as the ground when you checked for B+ at the fridge? If you only used the ground wire at the fridge, check again using a known, good ground.

+1 to the above. I looked at your wiring manual and it does appear it feeds right off the fuse block that's under the helm with a 10g orange wire. Start with that - see if you have 12V+ on the load side of the fuse. If you've got 12V there, then I think you have to pull the fridge and check...

I don't know your particular boat, but generally speaking, a fridge is a fridge is a fridge. Is it an AC/DC unit? If so, does it work on one of those two power supplies? -- Did you check your fuse panel... probably under the dash? -- Sometimes fridges (the AC portion) are piggybacked on the...

I agree with the engine being "adequate" thoughts. Depending on how you are using the boat it might be just fine, though. Those cracks worry me. There's obviosuly been water, at some point anyway, coming through that hole (transducer cable?). There's no question on that. While coming...

The regular springs will be the easiest, but of course the gas springs are cooler looking :) For the weatherstripping thickness... use some playdoh or putty with waxed paper on the top and bottom of the putty. Close the lid... open the lid... the thickness of the putty is your "air gap". Do...

Some lids do use gas springs (hydraulic) -- google that term. But if yours look the same as in the picture, then yes, it's just a simple spring. McMaster Carr carries A LOT of foam/rubber weatherstripping styles - I'm assuming that's what you're after? Some means of making the box more...

If I remember correctly, the "requirements" deal primarily with boats under 20'. Sterndrives need only have "basic flotation", whereas OB's are required to have "level" flotation. Level means the boat must stay, well, level - and not list excessively or turn belly up. Basic just means it has...

Google for "hatch support spring". Try this for some latch ideas: https://www.southco.com/en-us/product/hierarchy.html?hid=7320 I'm not sure what you're saying here: "and some hamlet material of have siggestions"

If nothing else, taking out the port side tackle box will likely be able to tell you which side of the livewell (in front or behind) might have a bulkhead near it - so that you can cut an access hole on the other side and just fill the hole with a deck plate. Which, by the way, is really easy...