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Thank you ky Grady for that info!

These are thru Hull scuppers that exit the side of the boat, not transom. They connect to the deck drains. I may just calling them tomorrow and see if I can get an answer on it. I hate calling usually because I know those guys over there are always busy and figured email is the easiest on them.

Thank you for the replies. Seasick, not sure if mine has the flapper, to be honest never noticed if it did or didn't. Ky, thanks any help is appreciated. I emailed Grady but I think they're a bit delayed over there lately, so hoping to order these soon.

I've done an extensive search and just curious if anyone has the part number to the original/replacement thru-hull scuppers that are connected to the deck drains? I'm debating on using this one: https://www.greatlakesskipper.com/perko-boat-thru-hull-0350-plated-bronze-4-1-4-x-3-inch Thru-hull

Yeah I've always gotten the window seal slight drip..... honestly have been putting off ripping the window out and redoing it correctly. But the small drops landing on the towel holder have gotten me stumped.

Just so I'm not confused , as I'll be doing this job in the next month or so. On a sailfish the port side can be done without adding an access hole. I would have to remove the panel with the battery switches tho correct? Thanks again!

Congratulations on the new boat! I have the same year and model. A bunch of great guys here on greatgrady and a wealth of knowledge. A few pointers to look at right away, as mentioned the rear deck drains/hoses, mine aren't shot "yet" but I'm planning on getting them redone next year...

Sorry it sold a while back to a member

Forgive me for this silly question, but what does having it documented mean?

I have 2005 f250s on the same boat. Aprox 1100 hrs on both. No issues scoped every year by my yamaha mech. Not to say there can't be damage from corrosion in the block, but not going to remove the head obviously. To my understanding some had it and some didn't. From all I've read, usually the...

I currently have a b765 in that transducer flat in the bilge with no fairing. It works pretty good. It's funny because my old b744 in the exact same spot was great at holding bottom, but the newer B765 onyl holds to about 30mph ish., Even tho its a direct fit replacement. Just make sure the...

What your referring to is the transducer pad. There's one on stb and port in the bilge. The biggest transducer you can realistically fit in that area is a 600w. You are not getting a1kw transducer to sit flush and properly in that area. You will have to use a different location with a fairing...

Ain't it great when it's as simple as spending a known amount money to solve a problem lol. I'm serious tho, how many times I have said....I'd pay x amount of dollars just so I don't have to try to track down this issue. I'm happy it worked out for you and now enjoy the season!

This is the joystick I replaced. Apparently they end up burning out every few years or so. I hope that's the only issue that you're having because it's a fairly simple fix

What kind of thruster do you have? I ask because I had a bad controller that needed to be replaced and it was a similar issue as yours.

Question for the OP. Does this happen just on initial start up? Every time? How long does it last etc? I only ask because my motors do this on initial start up if haven't ran in a while and last about 30 second.

Spectrum color match gelcoat repair kit. It's a paste with hardener. Like 30 bucks I think.

Thank you for that! To be honest I never understood the bungees but here's my best guess. The large long bungee wraps all the way up over the reel holding it down in the groove. The smaller bungee must somehow just wrap around the rod tip?

Just hook the rf drain to the ground connection. This boat doesn't have a direct rf drain (bolt in hull to ground).