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It's generally referred to as a "bang cap". Grady makes a replacement (has been for a while) in vinyl. But you could also buy fiberglass L-channel stock pretty readily/easily.

Ok, since the fill cap was off, that eliminates any venting issues as being the problem. This is assuming the gas tank is full, for now. Borrow a tank - or get creative? In lieu of that, siphon some gas from the bottom of the tank into a clear glass jar and let it set for a bit. This is to...

How do you know that the tank isn't full? Meaning, you need to physically verify it. A gas gauge is not realiable. Even if the vent was clogged, the fuel would bubble down into the tank - it would just take a few minutes. Fill tubes are not known to get clogged unless something foreign is in...

Freedom - as I mentioned above, repalce your impeller before doing anything. You don't know how long it's sat and if a vane breaks off, it can clog the cooling passageways and then you have to hours taking things apart to find it. Do as Sardinia said - use a portable tank to run the engine for...

The engine will drain just fine. This is in regards to the lower unit - specifically, the cavity in front of the prop. Some water will remain in that small cavity - and/or rain can collect there if the engine is tilted up. Some options, below - and in no particualr order or "this is the best"...

Hmmm. Strange - there's usually "something". Maybe they're a made in China "special" :)

There's usually some type of brand/model on the interior/underside of the lights. What do you see there? You could look through Perko's and Attwood's online parts catalog to see if you can match something up - and then find a retailer. Does it NEED to be just as big? Meaning, all you really...

We've used them many times at the shop when, for whatever reason, an OEM wasn't an option. I think they are a solid option.

Do the temps there get cold enough where it warrants ensuring the fresh/salt water lines are cleared and maybe run some pink stuff through for good measure? Vinyl... if you haven't been covering them now, it probably doesn't matter. There's more damage happening to them in the Summer than the...

Span is more important.

In my experience, no. I have either 18" or 24" span (I forget, right now) on my Offshore - which is only an 8' wide boat. They have a 9" chord. But I think the only way that would happen is if the actual hull ALSO came out of the water... and for that to happen, there would be more things to...

Generally speaking, span is more important than the chord measurement. So going wider has more impact on performance than depth. If you have room for 24" go for it. The three extra inches in chord will help - but to a much lesser extent.

OK, that helps. I wouldn't worry about clearing the vent line - that's not causing the issue - I was thinking you were having trouble filling up because the line was plugged. Yes, it's possible that lines can permeate - but the tank leaking and/or the fuel sender plate leaking (as noted...

If you look inside the fuel fill, you can see the vent opening - but it's not easy to blow it out given the location. But... it's extremely rare for this fitting to get clogged... again, because of it's location. What's the reasoning for blowing out the line?

Agree - they are a good, solid company, as well.

I do not, but... just look on the shock. The important info is listed there. You don't need a "GW" part for this - you can source shocks just about anywhere. Just don't get the cheapie Autozone ones. Attwood is a good source - among others.

Is the boat going to stay in the water? Or on the trailer?

The boat is on a lift

And Seasick's prophecy holds true! 8'? Take a big breath! :) :) :) I once saw a picture somewhere of someone tying an opened umbrella upside down to their engine while working on things....

Starting on land... go to your local Marine store or probably even Walmart - get a "flush attachment"... commonly referred to as muffs. Make sure to have the drive in the trim range, not the tilt range.