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Step bit on an angle... I'm putting that in my mental toolbox

Sure, 100% your call, of course. Look at the picture, though, the amount of material you need to remove is minimal and the tools I mentioned (especially the osc tool) will get that done in a few minutes. Although, if you simply enlarge the screw holes, it's going to get snugged down tight when...

Oh... another good tool for this is an oscillating tool - using the cutoff blade.

Dremel with a sideways cutting drill bit. If you don't already have a Dremel... do you need a better reason than this to buy a new tool? :) There's also a sanding drum attachment for the Dremel - although the sideways bit is faster.

If you can't move it at ALL, then yes, frozen up. But if it at least jiggles, then you're probably just not doing it right. Did you try lifting up, first?

That's interesting to hear about the reasoning for the pricing. Hopefully it's not just a line that Honda is giving out? But if they can KEEP their pricing lower - that will help all of us!

I couldn't agree with you more - that's a big boy engine, for sure. I wasn't (still am not) overly famliar with Hondas of that size, but I looked it up and it's a solid 5 liters of power. I'll take that every day of the week over a V6. 'Course, that Merc V10 is a VERY cool engine... bigger...

Yeah, since it's an actual livewell, you must be right. Obviously that fitting has been replaced. But it is strange - I mean, replacing a livewell drain fitting or that one... it's the same amount of work. Maybe he didn't care about the livewell and just used something laying around. Don't...

If not, then it was either pre-bent or just bent slightly over time.

Is it an actual livewell... or is it just a storage/fishbox? If the latter, it's just a normal drain. The notches are there to aid in installation/removal.

Granted, Honda isn't as "new" and advanced as the Merc, but... $25K difference?!?!!? Holy cow! That' s GIGANTIC difference and more than makes up for any "betterness" of the Merc! Is that word? :p Is something going on with Honda that they're trying to liquidate their engines? That's an...

That isn't bad, at all. But, it's just a piece of "L-channel". You can get AL again, or get a piece of SS... but Al is just fine. Measure it, buy a length of it, cut it. Local metal shops will have it - Mcmcaster Carr online is a source, as well.

Yes - any reason you're not commenting on the recommendation given or answering the question asked?

The rust is more likely "crevice corrosion" due to the SS thru-hull (and tab) collecting water in the small crevice created between it and the gel. SS protects itself well from corrosion - but only when it has access to oxygen. It's typically a very, very minor issue that can be cleaned and...

There's no way to know anything definitively from that. It could just be tannins from the water that weren't cleaned off all the way as the pattern is indicative of spraying cleaner. What does the owner of the boat say? Seems like that would be a good (better) first step.

See the part I wrote about the dash. That's how you can find the other ends of the wire - ohm them if you need to in order to confirm. But, HOPEFULLY, if anyone was in there messin' around over the years, they used the proper color wires. Also... my first question?

So "not" the Taylor Made ones? Which Taco locks are you referring to?

Tons out there - what style do you want? Post/link a few that you are thinking of and we can offer some thoughts. The Taylor made "pegs" have been around for decades and are probably the simplest ones... and sometimes simple is good!

We use "X"Voltage to 12V stepdown converters all the time when rigging electric outboards on pontoons (they run 24V or 48V). So, sure, that part is fine. Just don't get a cheapie one. But... when the engine is running... and if I'm thinking of this correctly... you'll be back feeding 13V...

There's gotta be someone around with a trailer that you can borrow?