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Welcome aboard! First thing to be aware of... a general rule of thumb is the rot is most likely 3x as big as you think it is. So be ready :rolleyes: I don't understand this sentence: "How much of the old deck do I need to bond the new piece to it around the edges? 1 1/2""? The center deck is...

Yeah, assuming the gear ratio is the same, that's a pretty big jump for only 20HP.

I know - I was making a joke regarding how old the tech is on boats... guess it wasn't a good joke if it needs to be explained :)

Very cool picture, Enfish! You've been saving that one for just the right occasion! :)

Yes, once a system moves into the 20th century and out of the 19th century :) with a canbus type thing, it all becomes digital. However, the sender is still 19th century - everything else is downstream of that. So the same method can still be applied - whether the sender is feeding the canbus...

What prop did you have on the 130HP? What speed did you get with the 130HP? Was the 130 a 4-cylinder and the 150 a 6-cylinder? Was the tach re-adjusted for the increase in cylinders? What did the compression check on the 150HP show? FYI, it's an "anti-ventilation" plate. Cavitation is a...

Gotcha. For what it's worth, it's going to take years for the paint to wear off to the point where you start to see through it with ablative. I haven't dealt with hard paint in a long time (since the ablatives are generally the "go-to" anymore)... but when it comes time to touch up the hard...

Don't even give it a second thought. Regular 87 at the pump is fine. You're good. Change your thought process and think of it this way... It's exactly what trailer boaters do all the time (myself included) and also boaters in slips where access to on-water gas isn't available. I would...

No worries. The initial check is still exactly the same - regardless of what things downstream are reading the signal, the float is still the same 'ol thing. Start there.

From that statement, it sounds logical - but it might be worth a 2-minute phone call to them to verify. Although in your case, I guess it really doesn't matter if the paint stops protecting since you're not keeping it in the water. But commenting about your first post regarding "needing to be...

1st... if what you posted about the local shop is true... never go back there again. Replacing a fuel sender is one of the EASIEST things to do - and also very common. It's inline with replacing a spark plug in a 1990 Chevy truck with a small block. You shouldn't have to cut anything open -...

How long can the boat be out of the water with that? Why the worry about NOT using ablative?

You "could" just paint what you readily see with a rattle can... re-do as necessary as it's easy/quick to do.

Bingo.

That's a better idea than than the foam rubber I mentioned above.

Yes, the bulkhead between tanks is structural. Yes, you could easily move it by 8" with no issues. The purpose of the bulkhead is to prevent collapsing/bowing of the stringers towards each other. How you actually accomplish that can be done a couple ways and one is likely not "better" in the...

Depending on the quality of the adhesive, it will last for a little while but will probably start to slide off with the heat. Some adhesive caulk will help. If you can find a couple thin, rubber bumpers, that's another option... or thin down a thicker bumper. Look at Mcmaster Carr for vinyl...

Along the lines of the bumpers mentioned above... another idea... Do you have enough clearance to put some vinyl edging on the hatch lip? That would at least stop the damage.

No worries - I understood you meant rubrail. It was the actual sentence structure that made it a little hard to read/understood - I had to read it a few times :)

Your sentence is a little hard to follow. I think you are curious about installing a piece to cover the rubrail "split"? If you looked through everything that Taco has, and couldn't find anything, try Barbour Plastics.