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Yes... NOT water! :) If it's a nicer compass ($$) check with Ritchie. They used to have a rebuild service - I have no idea if they still do. If they do, it will come back to you like new.

It's good guys - I didn't take any offense to the vent vs cav part. It's a good discussion to have. But to your line of thinking, Brian, cav is definitely a different thing than we're taking about - and this is not to compare, but I've also been in the marine industry for about 30 years...

As noted above, before we go too far down one path or the other... what is your desired end result? And... the brand of boat makes absolutely no difference - it's just gelcoat - the same as thousands and thousands and thousands of other boats :)

Sure! Super easy, too.

Yes, you could install a jack plate. But, at least in my opinion, I think that's a lot of spend just to get the gearcase out of the water when a little bit of paint each year does the same thing. Also... many of the newer engines can be set to a certain "max" tilt up angle using the...

I'm not up to speed on the chill plates as I have never personally dealt with them - without researching, I wouldn't want to give misleading info... and I don't want to give advice based only on internet research, either! For the AC (and the chill plates IF they physically run on the same loop...

It's simply a function of weight of the engine vs transom height vs other weight in the boat vs the engine's inherent range of motion. Some engines have a greater range of motion that others. It's not uncommon for any boat, though - it's not a "Gulf Stream" issue. It's also not a big deal...

"Experimental" line of thinking - understood. What you're REALLY looking for here is someone that has TRIED both/multiple holes to see the difference. Not someone who says "I have it in X hole and it works great". FYI... anti VENTILATION plate, not cavitation. Look up the definitions -...

I think that for this to make sense, we have to forget about the money. It's not about the money - it's about what someone wants a boat "to do for them". If they want a large boat to carry larger amounts of people more comfortably and/or are in bigger water where they want a smoother ride and...

You can certainly re-route fuel hoses if you find a way that makes more sense to you. Along the lines of what Hookup mentioned... another option is a large, round deck plate - or even square, plastic hatch.

DRM, to clarify about "plug", above... I meant and ACTUAL rubber plug since that's the way most of the cupholders come from the factory. Weedwhacker string is a good snake tool.

Gearcase size is not important. Besides, that gearcase is not different than all the rest. It's really all about the anti-ventilation plate compared to the hull bottom. There are tons and tons of threads about this - if you wanted to read up on it you can search. There's also tons and tons...

Cupholders don't usually drain oveboard - they drain into the bilge. I assume you mispoke and actually simply mean "it doesn't drain at all"... not "it drains, but not overboard" - they way you worded it makes it sound like the latter. So... assuming you just mean "it doesn't drain"... -- Is...

Why do you think it's not dripping from above? It would be very logical that water would wrap itself around the shelf and wet the bottom. I'm just curious why you seem so positive that's not coming from above? Off the top of my head.... broken pitot tube or the seal between deck and hose has...

John, my mother has a 2000 192 and we have been looking for a center windshield. I'm not sure if the size is the same, but would be willing to share dimensions if you would want to sell that part? I'm in Allentown, PA and also near Rockland, ME this coming weekend.

FYI, there are a bunch of tips by the OP already in this thread.

That's fiberglass - that's how it was built. Bad glass layup - but depending on the extent of it, it may really just be cosmetic. It will be interesting to see what you hear from your dealer after they get in touch with GW. But, there's nothing inherently structurally wrong with the exposed...

Thinking about this more... it actually might be REALLY good to use screws and finish washers here........ given how non-non-skid the area is now after decades of being in the sun! This would be a good project to fix the non-non-skideness.... fill the holes flush and do not worry about...

OK, so the ones to focus on asap are the ones where there is wood inside - such as the top of the transom and the vertical sides of the transom (the wood is likely somewhere around 2" thick, give or take). Easy enough to check, though. For those top holes, you would go real easy and use screws...

Depends on where they are and what you want it to look like when you´re done. Sort of sounds like you´re talking about where the coaming pads would have been? More detail or pics will help guide answers.