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Not, there's really no reason to have 2 batteries starting the port engine (if that's all it's doing). But, as noted above, the first thing to do is to go and figure out where all the wiring is going. Make a diagram, maybe? Once you have that, answers will become easier.

It's a bit of both. It's whether the engine/engine hood size/design is such to allow more clearance when tilted up AND whether the boat manufacturer designs enough clearance at the stern.

There's actually a reasonable argument to be made that 2-strokes are more reliable than 4-strokes.

They (Venture) didn't all have issues - but it was so disproportionate to our other brands that it just wasn't worth it to keep them. They're the only brand we ever came up with a slogan for :)

I agree - the floors are typically barely bow high in most boats. Adding enough weight in the bow to make a big enough difference at the stern is not a good idea. I think this is one of those "it sounds good in theory... at first"... but could easily end in disaster. Especially when a little...

That's some interesting math you have going on there :p But... have you actually done this type of work before? That's a rather big/expensive job for a small (although largely annoying) problem.

A standard hose splitter (or two) from HD or Lowe's should do the trick along with some hose repair kits and cutting some old hose to make a rig. That's a very simple/easy solution - does that not work for your setup for some reason? One downside... especially if your flow rate isn't too...

Keep it simple - go with a brand that can be warranty serviced easily - which means... buy local. I also would not get Venture. At my shop, we used to carry Venture but kept running into issue after issue after issue. We stopped selling them. It got so bad, we actually came up with a...

Something to keep in mind... it only needs to be long enough to keep the anchor tip from contacting the bow. In many cases, a decent anchor roller can do the same thing - or at least almost. Meaning - you won't need something really long. Depending on your trailer and ramp steepness - the...

A spec drawing like above generally won't give specific part numbers - just the types of materials being used. Without going the Google/AI route, I do not know the coding question. I would only guess that it's related to it's physical size (like thickness) or something like that. Yes, you can...

Is there a lip around the "hole"? Then "yes" to the center piece(s) (your call) having a plywood (or composite like pvc board if you want) bottom. Or, are there notches for support boards? I did a 10 second search on the net and it returned a whole bunch of interior pics - maybe try changing...

Lot's of pics out there in net-land - google and/or look on boat trader. Not to knock anyone on this board, but you don't make cushions from someone else's measurements. What if they're off by an inch? You make exact templates and then build the cushions.... or have a local upholsterer do it...

Yup, that's just going to be a plain old, screw handle/knob. There's absolutely nothing special/OEM about it. A good local (mom-n-pop) hardware store likely has them in stock. They're similiar to lawn mower handle knobs. It's "probably" 1/4-20 as that's the most common... but just take one...

Noble, what you're describing sounds well within the normal range of expectations. The chances are better than not that you'll be able to clean everything up nicely.

This is a big grey area with multiple answers depending on exactly what you mean. For example... my trailer gets used twice a season in salt water - and it travels about 5 miles each way in very rural areas with little traffic. That's horrible for the braking system as everything freezes up...

A little side note here... when comparing one engine model to a different one, the amount of "pee" is inconsequential. The pee is just an indication that water is getting to the port and, really, doesn't even indicate, definitively, if water is/isn't flowing through the engine. Heck, some...

I'm not understanding what you're saying. The standard flush port is simply a normal garden hose fitting that screws on normally (turning it clockwise).

I like it - it's a simple, effective solution. I may steal the idea

Yeah, my fingers are still sore from all that worthless typing.... just yanking 'yer chain a bit! New answer: Clean the carbs (less finger wear on that answer, too!) But... it's perfectly normal with a carb'd engine to have to open the throttle or give it a few squirts (pumps) when it's...

I believe that under normal motor operation, there isn't any pressure at that fitting