Search results

Vic, is this more just a search to find an answer to the unkonwn? It seems you have your senders figured out, so that part is taken care of. So this is just more of a curiosity thing, right? You could take a look in your owner's manual (you can get it on GW's site, too) but I'm 99% sure pink...

Yeah, I think it just is what it is when you have twin engines - especially on a narrow beam boat. I don't know where the stern eyes currently are or what exactly your transom looks like, but, can add a second set of stern eyes in a better location? Make the Turbo Swing an early Christmas...

If you read up/search on this, you'll find that this is common with all GW's. Not because of leaks, but because the forward bilge area/hull design is slightly lower than the aft bilge. Tilt the boat up -- whether on the trailer or with slow speed trim. Get all of the water out - ALL. Use a...

Steve, something sounds amiss - like maybe something else is going on. Also, I believe you're thinking of prop pitch backwards. Overloaded means the prop is too big - as in too much pitch. If you go up in pitch, you will lose RPM, not gain. Are you trimming up as high as feasible when going...

Sounds like a Turbo Swing (or similiar) that we referenced above?

I understand where your mind is on this. Maybe jsut hook it all up and try it, first? You can just do it while still on the trailer as a test. If you don't have a bridle yet, just use a piece of a rope to test things. Turbo Swings are FANTASTIC, but they do cost a bit of money :) Not...

The seat base looks like fiberglass? I believe the seatback is HDPE, right? That's going to be really tough to get paint to stick to for any amount of time... and then it's going to look worse than it does now. I'm not sure what material the armrests are. But I'd really caution against...

Before you spray - maybe try cleaning better? I've sprayed plastic parts with good results, but if you can clean it, that's a better solution. Is the seat base fiberglass?

Oh, that's totally different. It originally sounded like you were replacing the structural bulkheads below the floor. That changes things. Pretty much everything we typed above is a waste of typing :) In THIS case, go with either HDPE or expanded PVC board.

Sure. But another line of thinking is that if you do a good job with marine ply, it will likely last longer than the stuff that is in there now. Personally, I didn't hesitate to use wood when I did my floor and bulkheads. Just helped a friend rehab (entire floor, all 4 stringers, bulkheads...

Good pic, thanks. Yup, that's a very normal hull. Mount it just inboard of the outer strake. I know Bennett has good directions - it should explain/show that. I'm not sure about other brand's directions, but it's all basically the same.... a plate mounted on a hull.

What's different about the transom? Post a picture? I've done countless numbers of these - typically just follow the manufacturer's directions - but you basically just don't want to be too close to the chine.

OK, so SG is basically the same as normal isingglass - but better with a special coating, too. BE CAREFUL with cleaning - use only recommended products (Imar, for example). But in terms of the "storage", the same applies to SG as mentioned above.

One way that I've done... I rolled them (with sheets in between) around a 4" PVC drain pipe (ligher than Sch 40) and then stored all (8) pieces (this was a Sea Ray cruiser with more/larger pieces) in the storage bag they originally came in. In the Winter, I felt better taking them inside - I...

Good question, I can't imagine why the glass, itself, would be any different. But I've never tried to find out! Have you checked with a local glass shop to just cut you a new piece?

Oh... part of the reason for the clay was to also find the space between the lid and the box so I knew what thickness foam to get. What was tough, and hence the reason for removing some of the foam on the aft end (which isn't really needed, anyways), was knowing how much force it would take to...

In case somebody has a trailer that might work, it would probably be more helpful to list the specs you need. The important things on trailer fitment are: -- Bow eye to transom (just the part that would sit on the trailer) -- Carrying capacity If you can do that "homework" it should help make...

It's been probably 4 or 5 years since I did this "mod" :rolleyes: But I don't recall using anything too special. If I recall, I did something like (after cleaning the lid real well) putting wax paper on the box side of the lip, then some clay/putty in a few spots on top of that, then closed...

FYI, those aren't "Grady" specific cupholders. But what would be more important to someone interested in them is the size of the hole they fit into.

That might be a tough one. But do you still have the actual hatches? Meaning, if you do, then a mold can be made from those.