Search results

If you've only emailed, call a dealer directly - that's an easy thing to get a price on. Or call another dealer. Do you want to ski or tube from it? Some pylons are not meant to pull tubes - then can bend/break/become a missle that is launched towards the tubers. Tubing... you can go right...

Oh, German, I meant ask... what does the cleat actually look like? Is it a standard looking, 4-bolt open-base type cleat? I'm assuming it is. As you look for new cleats (whether Marinium or maybe SS... FYI, Marinium may be really hard to find), the proper term for that cleat is a Herreshoff...

Davis, that part is a "valved", not a pressure reducing valve. Valved means "one way". There's no reason to limit garden hose pressure. That product is made by Colder Products, not Fresh Water - they are just a retailer. Use the Colder ID # and you will be able to find it for sale at many...

Oh, I see. Were you able to find an exact replacement? If so, that's a GOOD find! :) If not, and you're intent on perfectly matching the rest... maybe just get something close? In the end, all that really matters is that it works :) My '82 had Marinium cleats... given your boat isn't a...

If I am summing up correctly, the question is... "My transducer stern block came loose, what should I do?" Meaning, the parts about water in the bow are immaterial to the issue, correct? You mentioned "bolts" came loose. Was it not installed properly to begin with? The reason I ask is that...

There's no "correct" placement in the sense that there is only one specific place they must go. Put them where it works best for you - add a decent backer plate.

Couldn't tell you for sure, but it's easy enough to figure out by just looking at things. A charger is either hooked direct to the batteries or the battery switch. Start at your batteries - do you see small wires? Often times, there will be fuses inline on those wires.

Those two items will not be protected by a common fuse. If the box on your boat isn't labelled, and there isn't specific info in your manual, then use the wire colors to match things up... either by comparing to the actual switch and/or using the guide Hook provided as wire colors are...

You're probably right - I was just curious since it wasn't mentioned and I don't actually know.

Perfect - good pics. That's an easy one as you can just space it higher with, really, just about anything. Wood, HDPE, aluminum tube stock... you get the idea. I "suspect" your access will be some combinatio of through the speaker hole or via the drawers. Still try the drive and tab angle...

Does his stereo definitely have zones? I had/have no idea what stereo he has?

Can you post a couple pics of your chairs - especially the underside and post hardware? That would help to know what we're dealing with. Or... maybe you're running with the engine trim too high and/or not using tabs? You might only need to drop the bow a few degrees to make a very noticeable...

Just to be clear, since we only have what we actually write to convey thoughts... "balance" typically refers to the left/right... but I think you did actually do the fade thing? But, yeah, stock systems are not the best for trying to listen at speed. To do that, you need to do some mod's -...

You can only add two more speakers if whatever head unit is in there will support it. BUT, you could move the two front speakers to the rear. Have you tried simply playing with the fade function? It's a very standard setting that pretty much all stereos have... and have had for decades...

Hmmmm. Might want to rethink that move. If you read up on this - there's plenty of info about it - pretty much all GW's have a mid-ship bilge slightly lower than the aft bilge. So, naturally, some water will flow from aft to mid. Now, if you plug the mid-ship bilge... and you start to get...

What were your results when you ran with the gas cap off as suggested above? What's your fuel pressure while running? Run it on a portable gas tank plumbed right to the engine. Report back.

The bunk doesn't factor in while it's on the trailer, either (see what I wrote). Truthfully, there's nothing special about this hull in terms of what we're talking about. I (and guys at my shop) have done so many ducer installs over the decades... it's just a simple install - looking for...

I'd put it in this vicinity (see the yellow area). The bunk has no impact on the transducer usage. If the bunk sticks out past the transom, just cut it or move the boat back slightly on the trailer as long as you have some tongue weight to spare. Also, don't get too caught up in wanting to...

As Seasick menitoned - and just for "correctness" so we're all on the same page, it's most likely ventilation, not cavitation. They're really two different things. Put a match mark on your prop hub (rubber vs metal) and then see if the marks are no longer matched.Another cause of ventilation...

I honestly don't know - all I do is click the envelope at the top right or just hover over the person's name. Maybe it's because you're not an "active" memeber? It would seem reasonable that DM's may not be allowed until after X amount posts to ward of spammers.