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It's hard to follow what you're saying... can you better describe things -- or post pictures? Is the battery healthy? Have you charged it and load tested it? That's the first step. You could also do an amp draw test - depending on results, then figure out what is drawing excess power.

50/50 - based on that comment, it sounds like that's a possibility. Siphon some out from the bottom of the tank after it's been sitting still for a few hours. Brakleen is easy. Still check the vent system - even low spots in the vent line could cause a plug. Opening the fill deck plate vents...

ASV's can be cleaned, in most cases. Have you checked your vent system on the main tank? How's the fuel quality in the main tank? What happens if you switch the lines on your fuel selector valve?

If you're doing this INSTEAD of eisinglas, that's exactly what you'd do - have panels made to slide in - but instead of clear vinyl, use a sun blocking material. Whoever you choose to make the panels will know what to do. If you have eisnglas, but don't ever use it - then either attach with...

Try cleaning it to see it better. You can see it better in person - what does it say and what colors? Is anything not working? May be a non used set of wires

Pro Mariner is generally a good company with good products and support. I've had multiple PM's over the years... going back 25+ years. Add in friends/customers PM's... and that's a LOT of PM chargers. I'd give them a call. If you're near your GW dealer, they might be able to do it for you...

A claw (a brand name is Bruce) is sometimes grouped under the plow type but they're so different that that grouping is just wrong. A plow is named such because it looks like, well, a plow and behaves as such. A claw works differently The two types dig-in in different ways. I think if we...

Delta is a brand of plow anchor. So, yes, generally a plow style is the easiest choice. But that's not to say other styles won't work - it all depends on the roller setup and the proximity to the bow keel. 14lbs is MORE than enough for a small boat. Especially if you have chain. But even...

The boat is just a thing that keeps you above the waterline. It's the thing between one's ears that catches the fish. GO LUCKY! :) :) :) Hmmmm... that saying doesn't bode well for me... I'm not so good at catching 'em...... :rolleyes:

Adding onto that... Because bronze is a soft metal it seals very well on it's own without any tape/goop/etc - not that it's bad to use those things - I've just never found the need for it on dozens of my own boats/family boats over the years. Nor for hundreds of customers boats. That comment...

While it can still be done, it's a lot harder to use the muffs if the boat is in the water. Secondly, using either the built-in hose fitting on the engine (or the remote adapter that is hull mounted) doesn't require running the engine. Different strokes for different folks - all good in the end!

Oh, wait. This is different than what we were thinking based on your desciption. You could try to squeeze some sealant in there with a plastic baggie or syringe... but it's just a guess as to how long that will last. The next option is to put some effort and time in trying to remove the bolts...

"Most" likely... it's just heavy. The first half of the lift is the worst - until the weight of the engine head starts to counter the lower unit weight. Add more muscle :) or, just be a little ingenious and use some mechanical advantage... a floor jack to help get started... a come-a-long or...

Cool - thank you for the detail. That helps by giving us more detail. Try this: go out with just yourself on a relatively calm day. Go WOT and KEEP trimming up till speed no longer increases or the prop starts to ventilate. THAT'S the way to find your true max RPM. And while you probably...

Look for the manual bypass. It's typically on the stbd side of the engine bracket (or, at least, on the same side as the pump) - sometimes recessed into a hole. You may need a large flat screwdriver or possibly a socket. Sometimes there's even a little embossed picture of an outboard. It...

It might very well be the stock prop and then it "should" give you better performance. But you need to ID the prop for us. WOT is low... unless you've running heavy - please clarify. Can you better explain "trimmed properly"? Clarify your speed/RPM/trim/conditions regarding your staying...

Athwartship... oh, good! I don't have to over explain things :):) I-beam size. There are calculations that can be done to figure out load capacity based on span. But the reality is that the span we're talking about is extremely minimal based on the load they are carrying... especially if you...

To me, it looks more like the damage was caused by a foreign material (rope?) rubbing the paint off. For example, a line tied from the stbd stern, going port-wise across the back. And that caused really bad damage to the hood, requiring replacement. In the end, the cause is a moot point - but...

You know... I'm kinda liking the idea of clamps with tabs that allow for mounting the I-beams. And, there's no reason that the I-beams have to run fore/aft. They could run port-stbd, allowing for the clamps to be secured a little close to the centerline of the boat... requiring slightly...

No problem, Xavier. We just need to shift gears. All good! So, while I know that Al loses strength like you said, I did not know the amount. Good to know. Although, given how strong aluminum tubing is to begin with, it probably is of little significance for the amount of weight we're...