1986 Seafarer 227 scupper issues - New grady owner

[anthony1210]

Boat a 1986 Seafarer over the winter with a cracked block. After a fair amount of work, she now runs like a charm with a 2001 Indmar 350 and a 4bbl Holly.

Here's my issue(s):

The scuppers on the transom ride at or in the water and did so on the first run (after the boat had spent a year on land). Theres no damage to the transom and the hull looks pretty solid. the scuppers discharge the water rather easily when underway but I assume the "self bailing" setup is not working correctly.

Boat Sat at the dock overnight, and in the am, there was about a half-gallon of water in the bilge (which is when I learned the float doesnt work on the bilge pump!).

Has anyone had a similar problem or a suggestion. This is my first boat, and perhaps I got skunked by one with a bad tramsom or wet foam, but I'm not ready to throw in the towel just yet!

One other question: under the motor cover, behind the fuel tank compartment, there is a 1 " drain plug attached to a chain. Is that supposed to be opened or closed? I assume it is to let any water that comes in from the drains in the helm flow into the bilge to be pumped, but figured I would check!

Thanks for any info you can add.

 

[anthony1210]

update

Found that a couple of the through-hulls were letting in a very slow trickle. Still looking to see if anyone else has the issue of scuppers below water.....

 

[catch22]

If you scan over some of the posts, in the general converation and tips, mods, etc forums.... or do a search, you'll see there were a lot of recent discussions about how, on some boats, the scuppers sit low in the water.

As far as the "self bailing" not working properly - When at rest, it may appear like their not working, but if you hose down the deck, you'll see that they do drain out. It's a good practice to flush out the drains with the dock hose every now and then to keep them clear.

The deck drains are connected to a hose which is connected to the thru hull fitting with the flapper, (scupper). Those fittings, (especially the ones in the transom) are sealed. So no water should be leaking into the bilge from them. If they're leaking, as you mentioned check the hoses, (dry rot), clamps, and the fittings themselves for any leaks. If it's leaking around the fitting, I hate to say it, but simply tightening the nut is really not enough. You'll need to have the boat on dry land, remove and re-bed the fittings with a sealer, like 3M's 5200.

As far as water in the bilge goes - most boats collect a little rain water in the bilge when slipped. There's just too many areas for it to creap in, (windows, deck seams, anchor storage etc.). I wouldn't be too concerned about that, as long as you make sure your bilge pump and float are working ok, (you said you corrected that). It's not necessary, but some people put in a second set up, for redundency. Even if your pump is working properly, you'll still have some water remaining because the pumps just can't get it all.
But, like mentioned above, if it definitely is salt water, check all your thru hull fittings, and overboard drains for any leaks - lose hoses, (clamps) cracked fittings, check out the water pick up for washdown/livewell, (if equiped), check around the engine to outdrive seal, the billows on the outdrive, etc. Also, if you have the plastic style thru hulls, check them out thoroughly for dry rot. If they have a dry, powdery look to them, get rid of them. Also, when looking at them from the outside, if you see a line forming on the inside, (all the way around the circumference). That means they're getting ready to crack. Imo, they shouldn't even use the plastic type on any boat. As a matter of fact, I think everyone on this board has changed out any plastic thru hulls to stainless steel.

As far as the plug in your bilge area goes - Technically, your supposed to keep it pluged, and open it up every now and then to drain any water that has collected in any forward areas. in the event you have a fuel tank leak, it will be contained and not accidentally pumped overboard by the bilge pump. Realistically, I think most people just leave it out, so water can drain to the bilge all the time.... at least that's what I always do.

 

[BobP]

Catch,
he has an I/O, the plug is supposed to keep a gas leak contained to the tank compartment and out of the engine bay where there is plenty of igntion to light the fumes off. And then as you say, periodically drain, inspect what comes out, then restore plug.

On my 1988 204C with outboard, there was also a plug in the bulkhead rear of tank, didn't make sense since no motor in bilge, however, Grady may have done it as a bulkhead standard policy irrespective of motor style.

 

[catch22]

Catch,
he has an I/O, the plug is supposed to keep a gas leak contained to the tank compartment and out of the engine bay where there is plenty of igntion to light the fumes off. And then as you say, periodically drain, inspect what comes out, then restore plug.

On my 1988 204C with outboard, there was also a plug in the bulkhead rear of tank, didn't make sense since no motor in bilge, however, Grady may have done it as a bulkhead standard policy irrespective of motor style.

Yes, your right about the additional fire hazard, with it being an i/o. Probably wasn't good advice to leave it out.

More of a pump overboard, (environmental) issue with the outboards. Either way, your right, it's safer to keep it in.

 

[anthony1210]

THX

I appreciate the hints and help. After a weeks' vacation I returned and looked pretty dry. Prob. gonna pull it out and redo the through-hulls and drains before the stripers start running.

The board and members are a real trove of info for a newbie like myself. THX again!

 

[BobP]

Get that Grady cranked up and out fishing, the striper run is on! Got to fit in between Hanna, Ike, Josephine, and whoever else wants to blow it up out there!

Plenty of time to do projects come next spring.

Post some photos with bass on the deck and fish blood all over the place !

 

[plymouthgrady]

scups

The scups on the transom should be at the water line. The drains (and the deck of the boat) are ABOVE the water line-hence a self-bailing cockpit. Gravity does its job. Thats why the drains go down before doing a 90 degree aft and out the scup. Unless you have standing water in the cockpit, the scups are doing their job.

 

[botez]

1987 Sailfish scuppers

I just purchased a 1987 Sailfish with twin I/O's. My scuppers are not draining properly. After last nights rain I have several inches of water on both side of the engine box and a full bilge full of water. The water in the cockpit gets to a few inches deep then runs over the lip under the engine box and into the bilge. If I make like a plunger action over the cockpit drain, they drain. But then once they drain they won't drain again until I do the plunger action. The rear wood bulkhead is pretty rotted just above the cockpit so I'm pretty certain this has been happening for many years. The Previous owner said there is a check valve in the hose and this was always a problem. Does anybody know of a definite fix for this problem?

Thank you,
Frank Davanzo

 

[gradyfish22]

Since the boat is not new, replace all of your deck inspection plate gaskets, they need to be replaced at a minimum of every 2 years, but every year is good practice, that will keep any water on deck from draining into the bilge. Also check the deck chaulking, if there are voids you will want to redo that also to keep water out of the bilge, Grady's do not drain to the bilge (exception on some models are cup holders....) You should have a dry bilge. Both of my Grady's have dry hulls, if I had more then 2 cups of water in them for the season that was a lot. I actually run a hose near my bilge pumps from time to time to make sure they work since they never get any action. As for your scuppers, check where the drains in the cockpit are that lead to the scuppers and search for cracks in the hull or cockpit around them, also feel that area and see if there is a lip or buldge, if you have either you may have some damage from water which has expanded the area. It is also possible that the cracks are just from age and the expansion of the metal drain, I've seen that on some models which had good transoms. Rule of thumb on most Grady's though, if it is older then 15-20 years it will need a new transom soon. If you have a transom mount trnasducer there is a good chance it was installed incorrectly and that is a source of water getting in, I've seen that done too many times where the drilled holes were not properly sealed and over time rotted. You may not have issues, it is possible, but I'd look into having the transom checked. Enjoy the boat!!