1987 225 Johnson

gradywhiteman

GreatGrady Captain
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Our Grady came with a 225 Johnson and I would like to know what to expect for fuel usage and are there any particular problems associated with them. A compression test was done and it had a 100 lbs. in each cylinder. The motor has about 200 hrs. on it we were told. Also is there anything that it should have done to it with that many hours?
 
What boat is it on ? That and some other things will also have an effec. the sweet spot for cruising will be 3900 to 4100 rpms. I had a 90 model 225 Evinrude on my Seafarer and that was it's sweet spot. I was running an omc 3 blade 15x 17 prop. The boat was not too bad on fuel if you didn't try to act like it was a speed boat.
 
I got the same motor, an Evinrude 1990 225hp on a 228g w/hardtop. Make sure it's tuned up and decarb it every 50 or so hours. You won't get the ecomony of DFI but it's bearable if you cruise at 3000+ rpms. If you open her up you'll need a second tank!! I did that one day and you can see the gas needle move. Get yourself a FACTORY MANUAL not a Seloc and reset carb linkage and timing and make sure all fuel and vacuum hoses to VRO pump don't leak, it'll make a big difference. Trim tabs help also. I'm out of Stamford Ct.
 
That is a work horse of a motor. As stated above get the factory manual. I have a 88 sailfish with twin 200 evinrudes that have over 1,900 hrs on them. :D Run GOOD oil , and decarb it twice a season. The motor is no DFI , EFI or Fourstroke , but as along as you keep her in that sweet spot you are fine
 
225 Johnson

Like Romex said ,tough motors if kept maintained. The V-6 "Looper" is a perfect motor for a heavy boat like a Grady, lots of torque. I use only OMC oil in the VRO and Seafoam to decarb. If the boat dosen't have one, install a Racor water seperator filter.
 
Thanks for your replys. I have seen a lot of seloc manuals for sale, but where would I get a Johnson manual ? Also to decarb the motor is that something I can do or is it a dealer procedure? What about a water pump on an engine that old, should it be changed just because of its age?
 
There's no way that's the original pump/impellor. If you have no way of knowing how old it is, IMHO, CHANGE IT. Then you know where you stand on a critical component.
 
absolutely change the water pump. buy the thermostats (2 per) and change them out. inspect the water lines to the housings also. cover the whole cooling system in one pop. its all fairly cheap.

also note, to change the waterpump you need to drop the lower housing. this means disconnecting the shift rod. when you disconnect the shift rod and remove it, count the number of rotations it took to take it out...this will greatly aid in your reassembly.

though i dont condone it...you can get the manuals on ebay (all reprints)

cheers,
steve