Long post inbound.
I am about to embark on the transom replacement and want to run a few things by you guys before the work get started.
I have a 93 Sailfish 252 with the factory transom extension.
I found some rot in the upper port corner and around the drain plug of the transom and knew it needed to be replaced.
I am located on the Caribbean side of panama so my options for shops are limited, however I have finally found someone who i feel has experience necessary to complete the job. However, his plan for the build up of the transom differs from mine, and he's pushing me to do it the way he wants.
The work will be done from the inside after the cap is cut to allow space to work.
My plan (after talking with my brother's boat guy in florida):
Gut old transom to outer skin.
1. Using Polyester resin, apply 3 layers 1708 extending 2inches past the transom to the sides
2. 1 layer 1 inch coosa with cabosil thickened resin applied to both side of the coosa
3. 2 layers 1708 extending 4 and 6 inches past the transom to the sides
4. 1 layer 1 inch coosa with cabosil thickened resin
5. clap and squeeze, let kick
6. 3 layers 1708 extending 6, 12, 18 past to the sides. and tab over the top to seal everything in.
the panamanian fiberglass guys plan:
gut old transom to outer skin
1. 3 layers 1708 extending 2 inches past with polyester resin
2. 1 layer coosa board applied with non thicken epoxy resin
3. 1 layer 1708, then 2 layer 3oz csm, then 1 layer 1708 applied with epoxy
4. 1 layer coosa board applied with epoxy but only the one side, Back side left dry
5. clamp and squeeze and let kick
6. grind all resin off top and back side of coosaboard
7. 3 layer 1708 extending past transom 6, 12inches with polyester resin
8. 1 layer csm, then 1 layer woven roving with polyester resin.
Both plans have knees and supports built with the leftover coosaboard. and will use aluminum plates on the inside the support the bracket.
the fiberglass guy says the coosaboard wont stick with polyester resin, but from what i've seen they work just fine together.
I also dont understand why he wants to mix in the CSM and roving. from what i understand those dont add any strength, just thickness.
obviously doing the whole thing with epoxy would be best, but its very expensive here. $250 a gallon so its not an option.
I appreciate your thoughts and concerns with each plan, so that i can proceed with best way.
thank you
I am about to embark on the transom replacement and want to run a few things by you guys before the work get started.
I have a 93 Sailfish 252 with the factory transom extension.
I found some rot in the upper port corner and around the drain plug of the transom and knew it needed to be replaced.
I am located on the Caribbean side of panama so my options for shops are limited, however I have finally found someone who i feel has experience necessary to complete the job. However, his plan for the build up of the transom differs from mine, and he's pushing me to do it the way he wants.
The work will be done from the inside after the cap is cut to allow space to work.
My plan (after talking with my brother's boat guy in florida):
Gut old transom to outer skin.
1. Using Polyester resin, apply 3 layers 1708 extending 2inches past the transom to the sides
2. 1 layer 1 inch coosa with cabosil thickened resin applied to both side of the coosa
3. 2 layers 1708 extending 4 and 6 inches past the transom to the sides
4. 1 layer 1 inch coosa with cabosil thickened resin
5. clap and squeeze, let kick
6. 3 layers 1708 extending 6, 12, 18 past to the sides. and tab over the top to seal everything in.
the panamanian fiberglass guys plan:
gut old transom to outer skin
1. 3 layers 1708 extending 2 inches past with polyester resin
2. 1 layer coosa board applied with non thicken epoxy resin
3. 1 layer 1708, then 2 layer 3oz csm, then 1 layer 1708 applied with epoxy
4. 1 layer coosa board applied with epoxy but only the one side, Back side left dry
5. clamp and squeeze and let kick
6. grind all resin off top and back side of coosaboard
7. 3 layer 1708 extending past transom 6, 12inches with polyester resin
8. 1 layer csm, then 1 layer woven roving with polyester resin.
Both plans have knees and supports built with the leftover coosaboard. and will use aluminum plates on the inside the support the bracket.
the fiberglass guy says the coosaboard wont stick with polyester resin, but from what i've seen they work just fine together.
I also dont understand why he wants to mix in the CSM and roving. from what i understand those dont add any strength, just thickness.
obviously doing the whole thing with epoxy would be best, but its very expensive here. $250 a gallon so its not an option.
I appreciate your thoughts and concerns with each plan, so that i can proceed with best way.
thank you