Adding a Pulpit and Windless to a Seafarer 22

jmoneilthe2

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I have a GW Seafarer 22 "2 Pictures attached, boat and bow" that does not have a Windless Anchor System. I was hoping for some feedback on installing a Pulpit and Bow Rail as seen in the third photo I have attached "Seafarer 22 with windless". I have found pulpits for sale but I'm not sure of the length, and I'm having difficulty finding the railing that is curved in the bow of the boat. I have found the mounts and straight railing. Any suggestions on where to get these parts would be appreciated.
 

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In your other post about this it was noted that you really only need the right roller. Did you decide against that route? It's going to be a lot more expensive going the route you are talking about, now. For example, isn't your top railing all one piece? You can't just replace the little bow section
 
In your other post about this it was noted that you really only need the right roller. Did you decide against that route? It's going to be a lot more expensive going the route you are talking about, now. For example, isn't your top railing all one piece? You can't just replace the little bow section
No, I’m just trying to get as much information on what to. I’m leaning towards just leaving the railing alone and getting a a roller. From the photo I found I should be able to mount the Windless on the existing anchor hatch door. Your thoughts?
 
Although a windlass is not used to ACTUALLY anchor (use the cleats), you would still need to heavily reinforce/modify the hatch to support the load on the windlass. You might do better by removing the hatch and replacing it with something else that then gets permanently installed.

Do you have access to the anchor locker once the windlass is installed? You WILL need that... especially since, I believe, that anchor locker isn't all that deep. Unfortunately, MOST GW lockers are rather shallow.

I think we talked about this in another thread... but have you given more thought to just the anchor roller and then pulling the anchor in by hand while standing up? It's very easy/comfortable to do that - especially with a small boat/small anchor - and it's faster than using a windlass, too.
 
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Have the 208 (same bow) I got my pulpit from Auntie Grady (expensive) but came with the all the hardware to install and a section of bow rail as shown in your last pic. I pull anchor by hand using a Fortress anchor (very light) but works great for my shallow anchoring.
 
Although a windlass is not used to ACTUALLY anchor (use the cleats), you would still need to heavily reinforce/modify the hatch to support the load on the windlass. You might do better by removing the hatch and replacing it with something else that then gets permanently installed.

Do you have access to the anchor locker once the windlass is installed? You WILL need that... especially since, I believe, that anchor locker isn't all that deep. Unfortunately, MOST GW lockers are rather shallow.

I think we talked about this in another thread... but have you given more thought to just the anchor roller and then pulling the anchor in by hand while standing up? It's very easy/comfortable to do that - especially with a small boat/small anchor - and it's faster than using a windlass, too.
I guess if I were younger I would probably go with pulling it up by hand with a roller. But I'm pushing 70 and plan on boating for some time in the future. Just maneuvering around the cabin can be difficult since there are no real hand rails other than the canopy. I think anyone reading this that is my age would agree.
 
Have the 208 (same bow) I got my pulpit from Auntie Grady (expensive) but came with the all the hardware to install and a section of bow rail as shown in your last pic. I pull anchor by hand using a Fortress anchor (very light) but works great for my shallow anchoring.
Auntie Grady? I couldn't find anything about boats with this name
 
In some other thread, we were talking about a more secure way to get to the bow - or at least to "feel" more secure by having a higher railing. One idea I mentioned was to take some rail pieces and attach them vertically to the existing stanchions - you'd likely want them to extend to near the base of the stanchions for rigidity and then something as simple as a couple SS clamps to secure them. Then add T-fittings and slide a bow rail through the fittings making it as long as long as you see fit/need. It wouldn't be "perfect", but it should give some security passing by the windshield area.
 
On my last two GW's, I used black HDPE, and a piece of harder translucent stuff to replace the anchor locker lids. Same process for both, and 100% reversible. Added a hasp to hold the lids down, but there was no upward pressure on the lid, only forward into the anchor locker recess. Both lockers remained accessible.
 

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On my last two GW's, I used black HDPE, and a piece of harder translucent stuff to replace the anchor locker lids. Same process for both, and 100% reversible. Added a hasp to hold the lids down, but there was no upward pressure on the lid, only forward into the anchor locker recess. Both lockers remained accessible.
So you feel that the anchor locker lid was not strong enough to withstand the stress of the windless even if you anchored it down?
 
On my last two GW's, I used black HDPE, and a piece of harder translucent stuff to replace the anchor locker lids. Same process for both, and 100% reversible. Added a hasp to hold the lids down, but there was no upward pressure on the lid, only forward into the anchor locker recess. Both lockers remained accessible.
I like this! thanks for the information.
 
Take a look at this video for seafarer with aftermarket pulpit and windlass. As mentioned, there isn't a lot or locker room for line or chain. A horizontal windlass buys back from locker space.
You should be aware that having a windlass does not eliminate the need to go forward. In addition to the inevitable loine jambs, you need to tie off the anchor line in anything other than calm seas. You also should tie off the chain when the anchor is retrieved to avoid excess wear and tear on the windlass.Finally, that anchor may not always deploy when you operate the windlass to drop the hook.
I had the same issue, could no longer easily get up front on my walkaround. My solution much to my chagrin was to but a dual console boat.
 
I liked the option of being able to go back original just by moving a few hinge screws, and I ended up moving the windlass to the Seafarer when I bought it. Most snags can be dealt with through the hatch in the cabin, or by using plait rode to eliminate most line twist, which jams the small opening when going out. Another snag is the 2 threaded bolts on the back of the bow eye. Use a piece of rubber tubing to connect the 2 into a loop, so that the line doesn't get between them.
 
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Take a look at this video for seafarer with aftermarket pulpit and windlass. As mentioned, there isn't a lot or locker room for line or chain. A horizontal windlass buys back from locker space.
You should be aware that having a windlass does not eliminate the need to go forward. In addition to the inevitable loine jambs, you need to tie off the anchor line in anything other than calm seas. You also should tie off the chain when the anchor is retrieved to avoid excess wear and tear on the windlass.Finally, that anchor may not always deploy when you operate the windlass to drop the hook.
I had the same issue, could no longer easily get up front on my walkaround. My solution much to my chagrin was to but a dual console boat.
I think you forgot the link to the video...
 
I got my pulpit, bow rail and mounting hardware through my local Grady Dealer. I had it modified to take a 323 through pulpit anchor roller. I Added the stainless plate myself. In 2022 the pulpit was AUD$2940. With the 228 being discontinued I don’t know if they are still available. The 323 pulpit doesn’t fit and the 218 doesn’t appear to have a pulpit option.
 

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Apologies jmonie, did not mean to send you on a searching safari . Thanks Don for the understanding and explaining our twisted Canadian sense of humour on occasion.