Antifouling paint results

seasick

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I pulled the boat yesaterday and am now able to report the results of my antifouling paint treatments:

Hull was painted two seasons ago with Interlux Micron CSC and was touched up this year before launch. Boat was in water (salt) all season and was not used as much as normal due to the crummy weather.
There was not one barnacle on the hull and the paint although covered with slime, when power washed, looks as good as when first painted. The water line had scum stains but that is what you get in the inlet where my boat is. Although I will lightly sand paint the entire hull next season, it probably would survive another season as is. Yes the paint is expensive but for me, worth every penny.

I painted the transducer and speed wheel with MDR water based transducer paint. I painted two coats last year including the bottom of the transducer. Results: One barnacle that I was able to easily remove with my finger. The transducer was covered with slime like the hull but also power washed well. I will use the MDR again.


As Meat Loaf said :2 outa 3 ain't bad"

I painted the section engine mount that is below water with Interlux Trilux Prop and Drive Clear spray.
Totallty covered in barnacles and they didn't come off with the power washing. It will be scrape and sand next spring. The stuff didn't make any difference at all. It was applied over a Zink Chromate yellow/green primer. Since I still have the can and since the stuff is fairly expensive, I will use it next year. I will try more coats, but have my doubts about the results being any different.

Hope this info helps.
 
I've always used Trilux 33 - http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... ttom+Paint

Unfortunately, it's not a whole lot better. It does help somewhat, (I'm sure it would be worse with nothing at all), but not nearly as well as regular bottom paint.

I wish there was something better for aluminum. Back before they out-lawed the lead based paints, that was the way to go. Now, doesn't seam like there's anything strong enough and not many choices.
 
I use the 33 on my drive and motors, as said, not as good as Micron, but the 33 is better than the trilux black spray, threw the spray leftovers out.

I paint the lower part of the gearcase, no primer, scuff up the Yamaha finish paint, the liquid seems to work better than the spray INHO.
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If you applied two Micron coats, no reason to paint for next season, just touchup spots that chipped off and forward keel. One coat of Micron covers more than one season in NE.
 
When there are chipped areas from other coats coming off, sometimes a few inches in size, do you do anything to smooth it flush with the new paint?
 
This was the second season for the CSC. I just did a touch up in a few spots this past spring.
There were a few chips last season and there are three or four this year, each is smaller than a 1/4 inch. I sand the area with 80 grit and apply two coats of paint.
 
West Marine woked for me!

Very pleased to get my third season out of the West Marine ablative paint. I am in Western Long Island Sound at a marina-- in water for 6 months, and the bottom is perfect. All i have done is touch up a few spots each spring. This year I plan to lightly sand and paint entire bottom again using the West Marine paint.

If you start from scratch best method to apply ablative paints is to first put on a tell tale color, then 2 coats of the color you acually want to see on the bottom. Then when you see the telltale color coming through that area only needs one or two touch up coats. That way you don't paint where you don't need to!! Saves a lot of $$$$ !

Good luck-

Also remember that different waters will require different brands of paint. What works great in one area may not work as well in another area. Always best to ask a local what paint is working well for him and go with that.

Rod