Bilge ?

[Rfazilat]

I keep my boat in a slip and when not in use; It is connected to shore power and both battery switches are set to “off”. “shore power” and “batt charger” switches set to “on” at the panel. pretty sure this is Grady recommended set up when not in use.

However, the fwd bilge does not automatically discharge as it should and I have to activate the fwd bilge switch at the helm once the battery switches are moved from “off” to “all”.

since I have to use my helm switch to activate the bilge (assuming my batt selection switches are in the right “away” selection), my bilge float switch must be bad?? ideas?

 

[DennisG01]

It depends on how much water you are getting out. Manually activating a pump (with dash switch) will always get more water out than just relying on the float switch. Manually lift the float switch... does it turn the pump on?

FYI, your battery swtiches (nor the AC side switches) have no impact one way or the other on the float switch.

 

[Rfazilat]

good point. i will lift it next month back at the boat. i would say a gallon or 2 of water over a month period. have not been able to locate the source.

 

[seasick]

good point. i will lift it next month back at the boat. i would say a gallon or 2 of water over a month period. have not been able to locate the source.

Water in the mid bilge area is a common issue with these types of hulls. The mid bilge often sits lower than the aft bilge and water will accumulate until it is deep enough to trigger the float switch or the bow is raised high enough to cause the standing water to flow aft into that bilge area.
Water often gets into the mid bilge through the anchor locker. It can be from rain run off or the water soaked up by the anchor line that slowly weeps out and puddles.. There are other possible sources for water accumulation but most are specific to a design 'feature'. Cup holders mat drain into the bilge for example.

The recommendation to manually lift the float switch is what you should do first. There are a few things to note. The mid bilge when activated will not drain every ounce of water out of the bilge. The power for the automatic feature of the pump is separate from the manual feature. In the later case, the battery switches have to be on but in the first case, automatic, the switches make no difference. The feed is (should be) directly wired to one of the batteries and also have an in-line close to the battery. If that connection is bad or the fuse is blown, the automatic feature won't work but the manual may.

 

[wmassey9]

All boats with bilge pumps are wired, or should be, to be direct wired from battery to pumps, independent of selector positions. Agree with previous posts.

 

[seasick]

All boats with bilge pumps are wired, or should be, to be direct wired from battery to pumps, independent of selector positions. Agree with previous posts.

Although that may apply to most recreational boats, it is very common on larger and/or commercial vessels to have non automatic bilge pumps.

 

[DennisG01]

good point. i will lift it next month back at the boat. i would say a gallon or 2 of water over a month period. have not been able to locate the source.

It's hard to judge the amount of water exiting a thru-hull - but that could be roughly correct in terms of how much "extra" you can get via teh dash switch vs the float switch. Also, a "time period" doesn't really factor in, either, as it dependent on the amount of rain (and use of a windlass).

If the float switch doesn't turn the pump on, check the fuse for the float switch before any more diagnosis/replacement.

 

[Gulffisher]

There is some chance that the forward bilge pump is not direct wired to the battery ahead of the battery isolator/selector switch (would think not the case but who knows, especially if you are not the only owner). As mentioned above, try lifting, or rotating depending on type of float switch you have, the float switch with 1) battery switches in the on positions and then 2) with battery switches in the off positions. If pump runs with 1) then the float switch and pump are likely good but you still don't know how pump is wired. If pump runs with 2), then you know the pump is direct wired ahead of battery switches. If the pump doesn't run with 1) but does when you switch on at helm switches, then your float switch is likely defective. And even if you hear the pump run, you still don't know if it pumps.

 

[Hookup1]

This is particular to my boat but likely applies to other models and years. Couple of things to check/consider. The bilge pump fuses and waterproof individual fuse holders attached to the bottom of the battery switch board. Two of them - one circled. The bilge pumps should alway's be "hot" regardless of battery switch positions.

As Seasick said these boats tend to drain forward and accumulate water in the forward bilge. In the aft bilge compartment there are two limber holes/pvc pipe couplings. One connects to the fuel compartment (not plugged but could be). The smaller one (plugged) is a piece of 1/2" piece of pipe that connects to the forward bilge. Mine was factory plugged and when I swapped tanks out I re-plugged it.

The question I have for you is can the forward bilge pump really empty the bilge? It may be that it is doing the best it can. Depends on the float switch and pump location.