Boat Wax

[Jim73Lions]

Okay, so I confess it's time to wax my 2004 Grady. For metal, I use Flitz exclusively for visible metal stuff and then Boeshield T-9 for intermediate and hard to access metal parts.
As for wax, I've always just used a combination soap/wax but think it's time to do it up right.
Suggestions please?
:?

 

[capt chris]

Don't wax it REJEX it. Much easier to use and lasts a long time. If you still want wax use Collinite.

 

[Stonewall]

I agree with the Collinite Insulator Wax. Any good marine store should have it.

 

[Jim73Lions]

Thanks for the suggestions... after reading about both products, the Rejex sounds like the ticket. How critical is the temperature for application? It'll be rare down here in SF to see a dry-under 85 period for a while.

 

[capt chris]

Thanks for the suggestions... after reading about both products, the Rejex sounds like the ticket. How critical is the temperature for application? It'll be rare down here in SF to see a dry-under 85 period for a while.

You could call them and ask them. I do it in a boat shed which is shaded and protected from any rain during the "curing" period. I'm sure they wouldn't mention it if it didn't make a difference. It's not a selling point.

 

[jaydub]

Rejex is the way to go but first you need to remove any oxidation. Rejex is a protective polish so it will not remove oxidation or act as a cleaner. It is great stuff; I used it on the top of my gunwales and it has worked great. Fishing mess just washes right off. You do need to apply it out of the sun and let it cure. It is really easy to apply so I apply it as the sun is going down then let it cure overnight.

Supposedly the stuff needs to be protected from high heat too so don't leave the bottle in you trunk or a hot garage.

 

[dwain]

Rejex

If my boat is already waxed, then can I apply the Rejex right over top of the wax? :lol:

 

[Jim73Lions]

According to the instructions, you CAN NOT apply over wax as that prevents the bonding that protects the surface from taking place.

After the caution above about not applying to an oxidized fiberglass surface...what's the best way to remove the oxidation prior to application? I'm afraid I've got a lot of that.