Bottom paint

[Bill T.]

Good evening,

I'm sure this has been asked before but I don't have a clue on how to find it. I purchased a 1987 20' Overnighter last fall and need to paint the bottom. It has been painted before but is in need of another coat. When reading the owners manual for the 150 Yamaha, also a 1987, it states that when painting the bottom do not use copper bottom paint.
I also found that in the Grady Owners Manual. I had planned on using Pettit's Hydrocoat because I was told it can go over anything, but it contains 40% copper. I don't know whats on the bottom now.

All comments will be greatly appreciated.

 

[BobP]

Your engine is made of mostly aluminum alloy, so keep any copper bottom paint off the engine brackets and off the lower unit.

I had an 88 Overnighter for many years, sold it 8 years ago, told the new owner I may have to buy it back one day from him. With the gas price now more than twice what it was then.

I wonder where that boat is, I know the resale price is still the same.
Best 20 ft cabin model ever. Still. More than 30 yrs after it was introduced.

 

[Bill T.]

Thanks for your input Bob.

So you say that the Pettit Hydrocoat is OK, just keep it off the engine bracket and lower unit. (keeping a close watch on the zincs will be a must, correct?)

 

[plymouthgrady]

PAINT

Hi Bob,

I would suggest going to 'Fishing Rod's' question on April 14th about paint.

The Hydrakote is a good paint to work with b/c it's basically a latex-water based-no fumes (you can paint indoors w/ it) no offensive odor, etc but you do not get the performance as an oil based, esp in the N.E.
Rule of thumb,
1) Ablative supercedes all paints--it can go over existing "unknown" paints
Hard paints will "peel" off over ablative
2) Buy the paint with the highest copper content and a biocide that you can afford.

 

[Bill T.]

Thanks for the input PlymouthGrady, I did in fact go to that thread and got the info I needed, along with BobP above.

Thanks again,

 

[Anonymous]

Yes.

 

[Bill T.]

Thanks for the input Pete. The idea with the tape sounds like a good one. I think I will strip the old paint around the motor bracket, tape it like you suggest and do the bottom. Then as you said do the bracket.

Feeling much better about this project after checking with you folks on this site. Great place.

Thanks again,

 

[BobP]

Keep the paint, any paint, off anodes too.

Irrespective of what paint you use, sacrificial anodes are still needed and must be inspected periodically especially if moored/docked, and maintained.

If your engine's bracket's factory paint is intact, I don't recommend sanding it off. There are many shapes to contend with down there too. I just take some green scotchbrite and take the shine off a bit where i can get to, clean it with denatured alcohol, then spray on trilux. No primer used. I use the black trilux so I can see what I'm spraying so everything gets covered, except ram pistons. I still get some growth but much less than not using trilux at all.

Since I use liquid trilux on my grady drive, I roll the area around the engines with it also, right onto the Micron Extra that starts further away. I don't bother taping, just keep the roller of Micron well back, no precise measurements need apply. Since it's all black, it all blends in anyway.

 

[Bill T.]

Thanks Bob. I do understand about the anodes.
unfortunately the ones on this Yamaha 150 are small.
One on the bracket is 7/8 X7/8 X 1-7/8 and the trim fin.
Thats it. I will be able to check on them very easily.

 

[Anonymous]

Yes.

 

[plymouthgrady]

paint

If you are going to paint the top side of your bracket, use the Pettit Easypoxy 'Sandstone' (I'm 99.9% sure it's sandstone-I'll confirm tonight). It looks like it came out of the factory. Use a couple thin coats...it can sag.

 

[Grog]

Thanks Bob. I do understand about the anodes.
unfortunately the ones on this Yamaha 150 are small.
One on the bracket is 7/8 X7/8 X 1-7/8 and the trim fin.
Thats it. I will be able to check on them very easily.

You can proably install the large Yamaha trim/tilt zinc, it has much more surface area.

 

[Anonymous]

Yes.

 

[Bill T.]

Thanks Pete,

The pictures are great. HMmmmmmm, no wax yet? Mine looks like that (on one side) after compounding and then waxing. Lot of work, but worth it.

 

[Anonymous]

Yes.

 

[Bill T.]

Looks real nice Pete. Thanks for your input and the nice pictures.
Good luck and have fun on splash day.