I have a 1991 225g tourniment, the drain plug on the bracket is buggerd up and won't budge. I havent tried heat and a pipe wrench yet just afraid of doing damage to bracket. Am considering drilling it out and tapping the hole. Does anyone know the size of the hole and thread count I would need ? Any advice on this project would be grateful. Thanks.
bracket drain plug size and removal.
- Thread starter jmbadge
- Start date
ROBERTH
GreatGrady Captain
I had the same problem with mine when I bought the boat. Someone had actually epoxied over top of them. They are aluminum plugs and very soft. I found a 8pt. socket I think to fit the plug and put an extention on it after heating up. I moved it some back and forth working it out eventually. The threads were still ok.
After what seemed like 100 gallons of water pouring out for a few minutes, I was able to replace them with a temporary PVC plug which was 1/2" pipe thread size. I eventually found some aluminum replacements from Ebay and have used some grease on the threads to prevent leaks and corrosion.
I have been removing them after every outing for the first year and continued to get water draining out until I finally got it all sealed up. Now, I remove every few trips and only a few drips come out, likely from condensation.
It is possible to drill it out, and thread it. Would start with maybe a 1/4-20 thread and SS bolt so that if you make a mistake, you can go to next size up. But, hopefully, you can get it loose.
Another thought is to drill the 1/4-20 hole, squirt some penetrating spray in there and see if it can soak for a while and help remove the plug.
Good luck!
After what seemed like 100 gallons of water pouring out for a few minutes, I was able to replace them with a temporary PVC plug which was 1/2" pipe thread size. I eventually found some aluminum replacements from Ebay and have used some grease on the threads to prevent leaks and corrosion.
I have been removing them after every outing for the first year and continued to get water draining out until I finally got it all sealed up. Now, I remove every few trips and only a few drips come out, likely from condensation.
It is possible to drill it out, and thread it. Would start with maybe a 1/4-20 thread and SS bolt so that if you make a mistake, you can go to next size up. But, hopefully, you can get it loose.
Another thought is to drill the 1/4-20 hole, squirt some penetrating spray in there and see if it can soak for a while and help remove the plug.
Good luck!
Thank you for the reply would this be the same size and thread as the drain in the hull of the boat?
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I have no experience with this particular drain plug. But, have you tried tapping it with a hammer or using a hammer and a cold chisel to loosen it?
A standard, brass, garboard drain plug is 1/2" pipe. But do not use a brass plug inserted into aluminum.
A standard, brass, garboard drain plug is 1/2" pipe. But do not use a brass plug inserted into aluminum.
Thanks for your input , I will try all options before I drill not sure about the heat tho because its close to the seam between the bracket and transom. The caulk looks great and seems to be water tight, worried about melting caulk and messing up the paint. Has anyone tried a rubber plug that either twist tight or folds closed? Im thinking this should work once I get the plug out. Also the bracket has threaded holes that are on the underside of the bracket directly behind engine bracket. Could this be for a anode or a privious owner trying to drain the bracket when he pulls it out of the water?
Also the bracket has threaded holes that are on the underside of the bracket directly behind engine bracket. Could this be for a anode or a privious owner trying to drain the bracket when he pulls it out of the water?
Grady experimented with a splash plate between the bracket and engine, screwed to the bottom of the bracket at the trailing edge ... :wink:
Grady experimented with a splash plate between the bracket and engine, screwed to the bottom of the bracket at the trailing edge ... :wink:
The splash plate is gone I guess this was a bad idea from grady. Is there a replacement for this part or should it be sealed?
ROBERTH
GreatGrady Captain
I think the idea behind the heat is to just perform some metal expansion and contraction from heating and cooling cycles. This puts some movement of the threads contact surfaces and hopefully helps to loosen some.
Putting the heat directly to plug only will allow it to heat faster than surrounding contact area. Apply enough heat hopefully to get it pretty hot, but surrounding area not so hot, then try with 8pt socket and extention and see if you can work it back and forth to begin to loosen. Lots of patience. Several heat and cool cycles might eventually get it to break free.
I am betting there is water inside and that will prevent you from getting it too hot too easily. But, one would not want to overheat and cause foam inside to catch fire. Care is important in this area.
Putting the heat directly to plug only will allow it to heat faster than surrounding contact area. Apply enough heat hopefully to get it pretty hot, but surrounding area not so hot, then try with 8pt socket and extention and see if you can work it back and forth to begin to loosen. Lots of patience. Several heat and cool cycles might eventually get it to break free.
I am betting there is water inside and that will prevent you from getting it too hot too easily. But, one would not want to overheat and cause foam inside to catch fire. Care is important in this area.