Can My '97 G/W 192 be Waterlogged??

[Centurion]

I'm a G/W newbie who bought this boat last spring, bought a new 150 Etec for it and am now being told that by my Evinrude dealer that because the new 150 Etec he put on with a 14 3/4 x 17 Viper prop can only get 4900 rpm WOT, the boat must be waterlogged. He says he's never had to put less than a 17p prop on an Etec for any planing hull boats of this size before and that the Evinrude tech people he talked to said that my boat should be able to take a 19 or 21p prop. Says the boat must be waterlogged and that the bottom paint may be contributing to the drag.

Can a 16 year old boat that I was told was not stored on the water become waterlogged???

Can bottom paint contribute that much to drag???

 

[Pez Vela]

Can a 16 year old boat that I was told was not stored on the water become waterlogged???

Why would you believe that statement inasmuch as the boat has bottom paint, which is only required for boats which are stored in the water?
Believing that was a big mistake, HUGE. Strip the paint and see what happens. Change props if still necessary. Rebuild the entire boat???? There's a thread for that.

 

[Centurion]

Can a 16 year old boat that I was told was not stored on the water become waterlogged???

Why would you believe that statement inasmuch as the boat has bottom paint, which is only required for boats which are stored in the water?
Big mistake, HUGE. Strip the paint and see what happens. Change props if still necessary. Rebuild the entire boat???? Theres a thread for that.

I took the seller at his word. The boat was in his family since new and was bought by his father. They didn't use the boat much, stored it on its trailer, launched and recovered it for most of its life. Seller inherited from his father and just wasn't using the boat much. That's why he was selling.

I'm also not sure what the "big mistake" was. Could you clarify?

As far as the bottom paint, it was a salt water boat and I'm guessing (being a freshwater boater only) that it is common to bottom paint them.

Not sure what your response was saying. Is it that you think the bottom paint could be the whole problem? Still have the unanswered question on whether fiberglass boats can, if fact, become waterlogged. Also, are you suggesting that the boat needs to be rebuilt?

 

[Pez Vela]

First of all, your boat may not have any significant water intrusion, in which case, "it's all good," and my comments are purely academic. If, on the other hand, your boat is waterlogged, then my comments are directed towards the "red flag" which was presented to you upon your inspection of the boat. The bottom paint should have caused you to doubt the seller's representation that the boat was never kept in the water when not in use. It's not a freshwater or saltwater thing. Saltwater boats are not bottom painted if they are stored on a trailer at all times.The big mistake MIGHT BE taking the seller at his word.

Your boat was constructed with some wood in it. Typically, Grady's have wood transoms and stringers. These are the structural components that have been problematic. Fiberglass boats of that vintage are not 100% glass.

I'm not sure you have a problem in the first place. I wouldn't know because I'm not a prop guy. If indeed your boat doesn't perform as expected, the bottom paint could be a part of the problem because it induces increased drag and slows the boat and could bog the engine down just a tiny, tiny bit. I'm keeping my fingers crossed for you that get your boat propped right so that you can just go out and enjoy it. A few hundred RPM is insignificant in the overall scheme of things. Good luck.

 

[VeroWing]

It is possible for any boat to get waterlogged, if, for example, it had been submerged, or, if it had been stored out in the weather without a cover and the drain plug left in place, for a long period of time. Either of these situations would allow water to wick into any exposed wood beneath decks, etc. Bottom paint will decrease boat speed, but it would have to be especially rough, multiple, uneven layers to see a dramatic performance decrease. Normally, if a boat has bottom paint, it has been stored in water, and not on a trailer. If it has multiple layers of bottom paint, then you can be pretty sure it has been stored in water for more than one year. Have you checked below decks to be sure your bilge pump is working and you are not carrying water? Pull drain plug and tilt front of trailer real high and see if boat drains a lot of water. Check all of your below deck compartments, fishwells, etc for leaky hoses and drains, and after you're confident water is not collecting, then remove some screws from fishfinder/depthfinder transducer on lower outside transom and see if water starts coming out of screw holes. This can help you determine if your transom is wet. You can also buy/borrow a moisture meter to determine water content. I'm not familiar with them, but I've heard that a good meter with a knowledgeable person can be real plus in situations like yours. Consider a surveyor to check for you. You could also consider getting the original hull weight from Grady, adding engine, trailer and other bolted on parts weight, and then go to a weigh station and weigh it up. If you're not sure of trailer weight, drop boat in water and go weigh it by itself.

On the other side of the coin is the engine, and its' installation. You say it is a new 150 etec. Is it installed at the proper height? Cavitation plate (flat part directly above prop) should be even to hull bottom in front of it as a general rule of thumb. If you find that your hull is fine, and engine is at proper height, then you are either trimming motor wrong at top end, you are severely overloaded, or you are running the wrong prop. Theres a guy called "PropMaster" on the HullTruth forum that can tell you exactly the correct prop you need if you can give him weight/hp, etc. Some places that sell props will have loaners you can try, so you can zero in your manufacturers recommendations at wot. If all else checks out, then I would #1, either sand/scrape off bottom paint to gelcoat or apply new smooth bottom paint, and #2, tell dealer that sold/installed new etec to install the prop necessary to run this boat to wot at rpm recommendation provided by Evinrude. I would think as an authorized dealer, that would be their responsibility.

 

[Parthery]

Doubtful but not impossible that it's waterlogged.

What hole is the motor mounted in? If it's at the top hole, the motor may be mounted too low. I'd raise it up one hole at a time and go for a ride.

 

[Centurion]

Doubtful but not impossible that it's waterlogged.

What hole is the motor mounted in? If it's at the top hole, the motor may be mounted too low. I'd raise it up one hole at a time and go for a ride.

The motor was mounted on the top hole, deepest in the water. Just had it raised one hole with no change to the WOT max rpm. Still around 4900.

I've been going round and around on the Etec site looking for suggestions. They said to raise it also which is why I did it. Now that the engine is higher, my Etec dealer says the boat is waterlogged. I'm finding that hard to believe.

I also posted another thread on this site trying to find a G/W 192 owner with a 150 Etec to find out what prop worked for them. No responses, though.

 

[Centurion]

It is possible for any boat to get waterlogged, if, for example, it had been submerged, or, if it had been stored out in the weather without a cover and the drain plug left in place, for a long period of time. Either of these situations would allow water to wick into any exposed wood beneath decks, etc. Bottom paint will decrease boat speed, but it would have to be especially rough, multiple, uneven layers to see a dramatic performance decrease. Normally, if a boat has bottom paint, it has been stored in water, and not on a trailer. If it has multiple layers of bottom paint, then you can be pretty sure it has been stored in water for more than one year. Have you checked below decks to be sure your bilge pump is working and you are not carrying water? Pull drain plug and tilt front of trailer real high and see if boat drains a lot of water. Check all of your below deck compartments, fishwells, etc for leaky hoses and drains, and after you're confident water is not collecting, then remove some screws from fishfinder/depthfinder transducer on lower outside transom and see if water starts coming out of screw holes. This can help you determine if your transom is wet. You can also buy/borrow a moisture meter to determine water content. I'm not familiar with them, but I've heard that a good meter with a knowledgeable person can be real plus in situations like yours. Consider a surveyor to check for you. You could also consider getting the original hull weight from Grady, adding engine, trailer and other bolted on parts weight, and then go to a weigh station and weigh it up. If you're not sure of trailer weight, drop boat in water and go weigh it by itself.

On the other side of the coin is the engine, and its' installation. You say it is a new 150 etec. Is it installed at the proper height? Cavitation plate (flat part directly above prop) should be even to hull bottom in front of it as a general rule of thumb. If you find that your hull is fine, and engine is at proper height, then you are either trimming motor wrong at top end, you are severely overloaded, or you are running the wrong prop. Theres a guy called "PropMaster" on the HullTruth forum that can tell you exactly the correct prop you need if you can give him weight/hp, etc. Some places that sell props will have loaners you can try, so you can zero in your manufacturers recommendations at wot. If all else checks out, then I would #1, either sand/scrape off bottom paint to gelcoat or apply new smooth bottom paint, and #2, tell dealer that sold/installed new etec to install the prop necessary to run this boat to wot at rpm recommendation provided by Evinrude. I would think as an authorized dealer, that would be their responsibility.

Bilge pump is working. There has been no water at all getting in to the bilge after being on the water 3 1/2 months. It has been bone dry. That is what I liked about Grady's. Rain drains off the deck through the stern scuppers without entering the bilge. Have tilted the boat numerous times with absolutely no water flowing out the drain. Live well is all I have but I don't use it and it has been dry since I bought the boat. I knew of the transom problem before purchasing the boat. The transom is solid with no signs of deterioration. I will remove transducer screws as you suggest but all other indications are that the bilge is and has been dry.

I will weigh the trailer tomorrow since the boat is in the water and then weigh the whole thing after I pull the boat.

I appreciate your feedback. Sure wish I could find out what other 192 owners are using for a prop on a 150 hp of any kind. I'll look into your "Propmaster" suggestion. Thanks!

 

[mboyatt]

Do you have the motor trimmed all the way down at wide open throttle? If so, then I can see where you are only getting 4900 rpm. My guess is that your Grady hull is fine. Open that evinrude up full throttle, then tilt the motor up until she is flying and your 192 hull is floating on air. I had the same problem with my new to me 192 tournament with a 200 hp evinrude ocean pro. I was only getting 4700 rpm at wide open throttle. I thought the evinrude motor was toast, or that the hull was bad. In the end, I was not trimming the motor properly. It was my fault. Do not know if that is your issue, but it just may be that simple. Good luck!

 

[VeroWing]

Check out this evinrude prop guide link for more prop info. http://www.evinrude.com/Content/Pdf/en- ... 766315.pdf

It is not unusual for new engine installs to go through several different props to find the best one for your particular vessel. The more time and effort you spend on this will determine your performance and economy with this engine/hull combo. If you are certain that you are trimming engine correctly once up on plane and running wot, then it could very well be incorrect prop size for your application. Even if your boat is waterlogged, full of water, with 10 coats of bottom paint, there will be a prop that will get to manufacturers suggested rpms at wot. It will just be at a slower speed.

 

[gradydriver]

You could both be right.....The boat was never "STORED" on the water like the owner said....as cold as it is in NY the boat was "STORED" on the hard.....BUT it was kept in the water all season.....hence the bottom paint.....new Grady 192's come with a 13 3/4 x 17 on the 150 Yam 4 stroke.

 

[Clockwork]

If it was waterlogged they would have found that out when they installed the motor. Ive seen waterlogged boats, when they pulled the old motor water would have dripped out, and even if all the wood was soaked it wouldnt be heavy enough to slow the boat that much. Theres only so many gallons that you can put into piece of wood. The guys trying to put the burden of pro8f on you.

 

[suzukidave]

i recently looked closely into remotoring my tournament 190 with an etec. there is no way an etec 150 should be only turning 4900 with a 17" prop. there is a 192 for sale in florida with a 150 etec right now that the owner claims will do 48 mph. there is also an etec forum where i did some research. one of the first questions they ask people with etec v6 performance issues when reengining is whether they have completely redone the fuel system including the tank pickup using 3/8" line.

it could be the paint, or waterlogging or a hull distortion (hook), or it could be a motor problem.

to weigh the boat, take the boat to a marina with a large hoist that has a weight display or take the boat and trailer to a highway weigh scale and deduct the weight of the trailer listed on the plate (or, even better, weigh the trailer separately). the grady catalog will tell you the original weight of the boat (around 2100 lbs dry) and the etec is 420 lbs.