Can of worms story...

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gradydaniele

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Over the passed few weeks I’ve been tinkering with my boat here in the northeast.
this is when I opened a can of worms...

The first few things weren’t so bad, I replaced the radio speakers (old ones rusted away) I mounted new ones under my hard top near the overhead box.
I also flush mounted my Simrad go9 unit to a custom cut piece of black starboard over my old helm storage compartment.

Then replaced the y valve (livewell/washdown diverter valve) which was siezed up after 30 years.
Getting access to it meant removing the rear live well and all the hoses for it. Which resulted in breaking all the Perko thru hull plastic fittings from them Being so brittle after 30 + years.
Once the tank was out I noticed the previous owner had the bilge pump wires connected with house screw in connector wtf? Huge Nono!
Reconnected with wire marine connectors and heat shrink.

started messing with that and realized the entire Bildge pump was no longer secured to the wood block glasses to the hull (broken strainer ) rule 1500
Ordered a replacement pump strainer and a new pump with the intention of adding a second pump w float switch to second battery and old pump manually
Operated from helm.
Had to buy and 4200 in new thru hull fittings for bildge and one for livewell drain.
The wood block glassed into the hull was shot so I mounted the new pumps and float switch to a nice piece of 1/4 starboard.
This area is extremely hard to reach for a larger size person. I really think Grady had no common sense when they build this design.
glued the entire board place with six10.
For extra reinforcement I screwed a stainless 2 inche screw though the starboard thinking to secure it to that old piece of wood and bam! screw went right through the hull and out the bottom!

this was supposed to be a simple valve replacement which turned into a nightmare!

I love my Grady, but the design how the bildge pumps are located on the offshore 242 closed transom model is complete dogshit and for me the list goes on and on.

For the hole now in my Hull I’m thinking filling it from the outside cuz from the inside is dam Near impossible.
Remove the screw and Fill with six10 from outside underneath and maybe a small patch of fiberglass over it for good measure.
Can anyone recommend any other way?
This was my can of worms I opened all for a siezed y valve lol, but I guess it’s all for the best.

more pics to come...

Tight lines

Dan
 

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Hookup1

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I made a couple of extra holes in my boat during a recent transducer install. Fixed them with West System epoxy and some high density filler.

I would take the screws out, clean up as best you can the inside, tape over from the bottom and epoxy fill them. Install starboard with shorter screws. Then attach bilge pump and switch to the starboard.

Done right you will only have to do it once! GW has gotten better with all this stuff but there is still a special place on Hell for all the old marine engineers!
 
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gradydaniele

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“there is still a special place on Hell for all the old marine engineers!”
Hahaha
Your dam right about that one!
 

SkunkBoat

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you are going to have to do it from inside because you will never know if you filled it well from the bottom.
And you have that wood and layer of glass hiding the hole.
That means now you gotta dig deeper for some more worms and remove the wood so you can see the hole in the hull.
Like Hookup said, clean it and fill from top. I would let some drip out before taping the bottom. (Filling a one-ended hole sometimes traps an air bubble and you think it is filled)
Go over the inside with a layer of glass just for S&Gs

I'm in the process of filling a 2-1/8" hole and 5/16" hole from a thruhull xducer...so I can re-drill a 1 inch hole...
I'm using epoxy and glass and high density filler
 
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gradydaniele

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Today I replaced the cockpit lights. I went with some new led ones off Amazon. The old bulbs would come on and off if I jiggled them in the housing.
upon removing the lights I was shocked to see rotted plywood around the light holes. Apparently Grady never glasses or sealed the wood behind the gel coat around the holes for the lights back in 87.
but hey nothing that a little six 10 resin around the wood to seal it in couldn’t fix.
More worms..
 

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ROBERTH

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Sad you can't get to the bilge area. In my 252G model, I pull the rear floor panel and have full access to almost everything in the bilge. When I installed my second backup 2000GPH rule, I noticed a really foul smell and it was the rotted wood piece that was glassed to the bottom of the hull to mount the bilge pump and float switch to. Over time, the holes allowed water intrusion and the wood rotted inside and made a really nasty smell.
So, I was able to ground out the flat section down to the hull surface, I cut a piece of PVC board and glassed it down to the hull. Then I was able to re-install with short SS screws and 4200 to resolve this issue.
I mounted my 2nd bilge pump about 2 inches higher and the 2nd float switch about 4 inches higher so they only work when the primary pump fails.
 
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