Changing the oil in a Yamaha F-200 4-stroke

[Graybeard]

Hey guys:
I have a Yamaha F-200 4-stroke on my GW and I need to do an oil change. I saw 1 U-tube video using an oil extractor sucking the oil out of the dipstick hole. And I saw another video where the guy took the plastic cover off the section between the powerhead and the lower unit to expose an oil drain plug. To me using the oil drain plug seems like the right way to go. I would be grateful if anyone can share Any past experiences.

 

[Fishtales]

pump it or have it done is my advice.

 

[Legend]

I have 225 s assume they are the same setup. I have an electric dip stick pump that does a great job. The difficult part was getting the oil filters off without making a mess as the residual oil would flow into the cowling I found a guy on you tube who sold a formed piece of sheet metal that slides under the filter. The oil drains right down the sheet metal trav and into the bucket without spilling a drop. Cost about 5 buck , ordered it on line and arrived a few day later. If interested you can do a search , he is located in Arlington ma. And the video show you how easy it is. Really works great , good luck

 

[GulfSea]

There's a number of different ways to keep residual oil from dripping all over. On my F250TXR I just use a ziplock bag/rag and have been successful in not allowing oil to drip on the engine. But make sure to pull up the owners manual to see what is recommended on your specific engine. On mine the manual specifically references using the extraction through oil tube method. I use a manual vacuum to extract with. If you decide to remove the drain plug, make sure to follow the manual. I think most have a crush washer on the drain plug that should not be used a 2nd time. And there's a specific torque value you should use to prevent damage to the plug and/or drain opening threads.

 

[Daman858]

Get a Mityvac and a fitting for the Yamaha engine and pump it out. A couple of pumps creates a nice vacuum and the oil comes right out of the filler tube
. Get the little drain ramp so you can take off the oil filter with out making a mess and get the fuel filter wrench plus the fitting for the lower unit oil. Trust me, you wont be sorry.

http://www.simyamaha.com has it all. They have a video on their web site showing you how...no muss, no fuss.

 

[eppem]

I have F225s and have a pump for the dipstick method and have taken the chaps off (PITA) and drained from the plug as well. The pump works great but you really need to pull the plug to get all the oil out.

As for the filter, what a lousy placement. Like the previous poster said, get the wrench attachment to loosen it and the buy the metal sleeve sold online (works great, I had one and threw is out by mistake with a bunch of rags, duh), or make yourself a "sleeve" by cutting an old plastic jug to shape (pink stuff container or windshield fluid). Its actually super easy to change the oil yourself and once you get the hang of it you wont spill any!

Do not, if you pump out from the dipstick you wont get it all out so be careful not to overfill the replacement oil.

EPPE

 

[GulfSea]

I see it mentioned now and then about not getting all the oil out via vacuum..... fortunately, you never get all the oil out even if you remove the drain plug. If you're oil is so bad that a tiny bit of residual oil in the bottom of the oil pan will contaminate new oil, you have a problem bigger than an oil change. With these outboards, you're changing the oil so frequently due to the need of maintaining lubrication properties more than anything else.

I know it goes against the grain, but everyone should take a few minutes to read the manual for their particular engine. Yamaha has them online and available for download. Mine only requires the filter to be changed every other oil change at 200 hours. Meaning quite a bit of residual oil is sitting in the filter when it's not changed.

 

[DennisG01]

When you break it down, an engine is an engine (just a fancy air pump). We're not dealing with highly tuned, racing engines with extremely tight tolerances and super-high RPM limits. Whether you drain through the plug or suck it out... they're both accomplishing the task. Do whatever feels better or is easier for you. If you're overly worried about that little bit that stays in (and I agree with the above that it poses no risk) then sacrifice about 12oz of clean oil to the oil-change-gods -- after you remove the old oil, pour another 12oz (or so) of clean oil in and drain (or suck) that, as well. That will help to flush out some of the remaining old oil.

 

[gw204]

Stupid 4-strokes and their oil changes. What a pain in the neck. :wink:

 

[Graybeard]

I guess I'll check the manual again to see what it says, but
I'm sure it says to bring it to a Yamaha service shop.

 

[DennisG01]

I guess I'll check the manual again to see what it says, but
I'm sure it says to bring it to a Yamaha service shop.

Don't they all, nowadays? :roll:

 

[GulfSea]

I guess I'll check the manual again to see what it says, but
I'm sure it says to bring it to a Yamaha service shop.

If the following link(s) match up to your engine, page 53 describes in detail how to change the oil. Make sure to check the effectivity on the 1st page:

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/assets/service/manuals/1/LIT-18626-06-76_1214.pdf

Or select your engine parameters here for the correct manual:

http://www.yamahaoutboards.com/owner-resources/owners-manuals

 

[bc282]

the F200 should be the same as F225 and F250's of similar vintage.

I use a hi-cap manual vacuum pump which usually can suck and hold the oil from both engines.
works very well and very easy, once you get the pump going it continues to suck the oil out. used with Yamaha dip stick adaptor.

to take the filter off is a PITA. I bought a "special" filter wrench adaptor that grabs the top cap as you can NOT put a strap on to the filter due to it's awful location. Filter normally have a downward tilt, so tuck the engine in as far as you can when removing filter. Also use the "special metal" catch pan or use a vinyl coated lead sheet (vinyl covered moldable lead funnel/sheet) to catch the oil. if you don't . . . what a mess! After filter is removed, trim engine up a bit to get a bit of that remaining oil around where the filter was.

pump was about $80.
pump to dip stick adaptor from andy at SIM $20? can't remember the price but worth it!
filter cap wrench around $10
vinyl coated lead sheet $20 >> newpig.com (on sale for $9.99!)

with prep and right tools, this job is very easy.

 

[Graybeard]

I was at the dealer today and the service manager said to use an extractor pump. And he warned me about the oil filter mess. He also said I should bring it in for a 100 hour service. He said it's important to do a compression check and make sure there are no carbon deposits that need to be de-carbonized. I should have asked how much?