I will be taking delivery of a winterized '06 33 Express with twin F250's. I would like to know what needs to be done to the boat and motors to commission it for the spring. Should I pay the yard fee for such a thing or have it dropped in the water upon arrival? It is waxed and bottom painted, just wondering about the systems (gen set, etc) and the Yamaha's. I am familiar with many items, as I currently have a Sailfish (which is for sale on the other forum). Thanks for your feedback...
Commissioning a winterized 33 Express
- Thread starter georgemjr
- Start date
where are you located?
should be pretty much the same as your sailfish, but since you didn't do the winterizing, you should make sure you find out exactly what was done so you can "undo" it. for instance, FP recommends removing the impeller when winterizing the genset. if that was actually done, you obviously need to put it back before you spin it up. (i did not remove mine.)
as far as who does the work, it's up to you. i have my engines serviced every spring (impellers every other year). i let the guys do most everything, except i may do the topsides this year - give me something to do until it is splashed. ron
should be pretty much the same as your sailfish, but since you didn't do the winterizing, you should make sure you find out exactly what was done so you can "undo" it. for instance, FP recommends removing the impeller when winterizing the genset. if that was actually done, you obviously need to put it back before you spin it up. (i did not remove mine.)
as far as who does the work, it's up to you. i have my engines serviced every spring (impellers every other year). i let the guys do most everything, except i may do the topsides this year - give me something to do until it is splashed. ron
At minimun change the oil in the engines even if it was changed in the fall. Oil builds up moisture and acid during the winter lay-up. If the Oil Filters were changed during winterization, they should be OK. Make sure the Fuel / Water Separators are new. If not, change those too. While you have the engine covers off do a liberal spray down of everything with T9 Boeshield. You may want to do a quick check on the lower unit fluid. Just quickly open the screw to make sure the lower unit oil is black. If not change that too.
See if you can get the maintenance records. If the engine impellors and water pumps have not been changed yet you will be living on borrowed time.
Dump the pink stuff out of all the fresh water systems (if there is any and you are not in a freeze zone)
Check the Zincs
Pull the prop and grease the shaft. Re-torque the Prop nut You'll need a 27mm socket and I believe they get torqued to 40 ft/lbs
Check the batteries for fluid - top off with distilled water if needed
Before you launch it, try to check and/or replace anything that would require you to pull it out again. Once it's in, you want to keep it there.
Good Luck
See if you can get the maintenance records. If the engine impellors and water pumps have not been changed yet you will be living on borrowed time.
Dump the pink stuff out of all the fresh water systems (if there is any and you are not in a freeze zone)
Check the Zincs
Pull the prop and grease the shaft. Re-torque the Prop nut You'll need a 27mm socket and I believe they get torqued to 40 ft/lbs
Check the batteries for fluid - top off with distilled water if needed
Before you launch it, try to check and/or replace anything that would require you to pull it out again. Once it's in, you want to keep it there.
Good Luck
Gman25
GreatGrady Captain
Stonewall said:
Stonewall, do you normally change the oil in the fall then drain and refill with new oil in the spring?
2005 300 Marlin w/F250's
Stonewall,
You have to find out when your water pump and thermostats were last changed. Four years you are probably due. I always perform this in the spring commissioning cause its too cold for me in Nov/Dec. I would also pressure test the lower unit. Jack
You have to find out when your water pump and thermostats were last changed. Four years you are probably due. I always perform this in the spring commissioning cause its too cold for me in Nov/Dec. I would also pressure test the lower unit. Jack
Good advice on water pumps and pressuring testing lower unit-
Yamaha sells a pressure tester all set up with a gauge- but I built my own using tubing, barb connections, small hand pump and a gauge. When the lower unit is drained, you connect it to the fill hole and pressurize the interior chamber. Then you wait for a period of time and watch the pressure gauge. THe specifications allows for a certain amount of drop in pressure over a period of time - this is called "Rate of Decay". To give you a sense for the magnatude of this test, my HPDI's I think I pressure to 12.5 PSI and as long as it stays above 10PSI for 20 minutes all is okay.
Tim
Yamaha sells a pressure tester all set up with a gauge- but I built my own using tubing, barb connections, small hand pump and a gauge. When the lower unit is drained, you connect it to the fill hole and pressurize the interior chamber. Then you wait for a period of time and watch the pressure gauge. THe specifications allows for a certain amount of drop in pressure over a period of time - this is called "Rate of Decay". To give you a sense for the magnatude of this test, my HPDI's I think I pressure to 12.5 PSI and as long as it stays above 10PSI for 20 minutes all is okay.
Tim
Gman25 said:
Yes I do. I usually change the oil and filter in the fall. Then in the spring I change the oil again and leave the filter alone.
Gman25
GreatGrady Captain
Stonewall said:
Thanks stonewall, I have seen on sites owners before layup will flush fog and the last thing they do is change the oil. I personally change the oil first then run the engines in a barrel of fresh water. My feeling is I would rather have a fresh coat of new oil on the engine parts as oppposed to leaving a coat of old used oil on the engine parts.
2005 300 Marlin w/F250's