Debating what else I want to do to "get her ready"

[RussGW270]

So, have not splashed Cow Bell yet....hell, have not started the engines lol. I know they work, I have a video of her running, but, I am debating what next.

She is off at the Fiberglass place having the outer hull totally cleaned up, sanded down where needed, buffed, and all the color blended as much as possible. I felt it was worth the money to remove the stickers myself, then send it to them to remove the old hardware from the bimini and arch that I could not remove. I do not have the arch.. which is a shame...would have liked to give that to someone...but I DO have the bimini.. so, I will get all the hardware back and have that available if someone needs it and comes to get it.

In the meantime, they are going to repair a dime-sized 'notch' of fiberglass that is missing on the back quarter corner. No damage other than it looks like someone hit it and knocked a small piece off. They will be cleaning the transom cap and sealing it and any and all exposed parts of it. That should last a year or three for me to work the funds into replacing that all together. It looked okay, and no apparent damage, just would feel better if it were cleaned up and sealed better.

Then they will repair and patch all the holes from the removed parts on the cockpit.

Then clean up and polish get the hull ready for the new decals.

SO....that brings me to the "next part...

While we wait for the top to arrive....

I am told the water pump and impeller were replaced like 6 months ago and no more than about 10-15 hours on the engines since then. Debating if it would be a waste of funds and time to drop the lower ends and replace all of that... and, what would YOU replace? I cannot, I think... check the exhaust without dropping the lower ends.. so.. in for a dime.. right?

If I drop the lower ends, I may as well replace it all and call it good for the next one to three years, right?

Then, plugs are easy and cheap to replace...

You see the "bunny trail, right? lol

Debating what oil is best for a 2003 and 2004 4-stroke.. brand.. do they make a synthetic blend for boats etc...

Thanks... just looking at what is best, vs what is worth the funds right now.

Russ

 

[Fishtales]

i'd follow the single and three year maintenance cycle that your dealer recommends. been doing it 20 years....

 

[RussGW270]

Agreed. PO says they changed the oilat the end of last summer, and he is asking the mechanic what all was inspected etc at that time.

I am just not sure I want to take it out without checking the exhaust, and to do that I need to drop the lower wnd...so, if it is dropped..MY mind just says swap out what is down there while ya have it off...heh. Then, I will pull the plugs and see how they look, should tell me if there is a possible other issue.

R

 

[wrxhoon]

When I bought my new to me 228, I changed the oil , oil filter, fuel filter , impeller and spark plugs as soon ass I got her here.
I would have the lower unit off change the impeller ( very cheap) and inspect the exhaust then you will know everything is ok . Change the spark plugs again very cheap and easy to replace, new oil, oil filter and fuel filter then you are good for 12 months . You don't need to do water pump again until you notice pressure drop on your gauge or 3 years. If you park so the afternoon sun sits on the leg you may have to do impeller more often. Pump grease on the nipples and grease the control cables ( if you have cables) say every three months. remove the grease the prop every year. I bought this semi synthetic oil for my 4.2 250. Penrite 10W-40 . This is Australian made but I'm sure you can buy something similar in TX.

 

[RussGW270]

That is one large picture... lol

Okay, update:

Let me state, firstly..., I am(was) a Navy mechanic. I learned a long time ago that if I have a doubt....replace it. What I wanted to know from the PO was a "starting point", what I might be able to push out a few months and what I might want to do. The idea was... no way am I NOT going to look at the exhaust before I go out. Since I am going to do that anyway, what can/should I replace while I am doing that....with the idea.. "don't freaking overdo it... you already have enough crap to do...but hit the important stuff and put the rest off till after the summer.." heh

So, emailed the PO.. he contacted the mechanic.. here is what the status is on the engines:

PO thought he had replaced the 2nd engine 6-10 months ago with another 2004 yamaha, turns out it is a TXRB not C...i.e. 2003 model.

PO thought it had 1000 hours on it, turns out the yamaha meter says they both have like 400. No idea how to tell if it is right or wrong.

PO seriously took care of this boat, so this is in no way a reflection on him, just a fact....2 different models, and imo.. not a big deal.

Okay... so, the meters both say 400-ish hours or less.

#1 motor had impellers, thermostat, all oil and gas filters and fluids replaced as well as gear lube. The motor was checked, no exhaust issue. No "fix" applied...mechanic said why replace what is not broken?

I will be looking to insure that is the case, no matter what.

#2 motor, he has had for less than a year and all the fluids etc was taken care of right before he got it. They checked for the exhaust issue and said all the heads looked clean. I will be checking that myself, no matter what.

So, my goal will be, when the boat gets back from the fiberglass place, to pull the lower units and check the exhaust on both engines.

My question is....what else would you guys check for on these buggers, while I have them cracked open? I have a lot of stuff to do to get it ready, so trying to focus on essential things for now. If you ask on THT.. all you will hear is "well, if you are opening her up... rebuild and replace all that stuff.. ",, and I am like, it is not broken till you mess with it. If it looks good.. I am in there to see the exhaust only this time.

Thoughts?

Not trying to be cheap, just trying to not add more work over the next couple weeks. My plate is full as heck, and I am only adding things that are blatantly important.

Exhaust is blatant, imo.. and not a huge thing to test for if that is all I am doing atm.

Russ

 

[ocnslr]

Russ, I did most of the oil and filter changes on our F150s, but had to have the boat hauled to have the lower unit lube changed, so did water pumps when needed.

I always asked about the zincs and the mechanics always said no need, never seen them wasted, etc. Anyway, before we moved from Norfolk, Va to FMB I had a lot of work done. Insisted that they pull the zincs to check them. Well, not only were the zincs in need of replacement, but the caps needed to be replaced, so a lot more $$$. So if you are going to put your USN mech skills to use, buy a shop manual for those beasts and check the zincs.

 

[RussGW270]

Yea, you are thinking the same way I am. I know the engines were serviced not too long ago, but it really is not a lot of money to just go through it all and replace them. I tend to TELL them to replace them, I do not care for whether they think they are good. This was why I started a log and will track when and where and what, so all I do is say, “okay, I need these things do e” not “what dis you do?” Oh, and I always ask for the old parts back

Oh, and I tend to do most the engine work myself, but I am used to Mercs so, yea, already downloaded specs and such and called Ram Yamaha. Or Sim whatever it is. They sent kit part numbers etc and diagrams.

I do not mind leaving some stuff to mechanics, but I am nowhere near any boat mechanics where I live and I only know merc ones atm...will take a bit to find a yamaha one I trust. Till then, it’s all me

 

[Fishtales]

There really should be two maintenance cycles - before you drop her in and when you pull her for storage. Most people struggle to put 100 hours on their boats every year except if fishing or trolling a lot.

 

[RussGW270]

Yea, I just think if people actually check their oil etc and listen to their engine, they will find issues before they get too bad.

 

[Fishtales]

I would think so. I check my oil at the dock when spashing, mid season and near the end (why I don't know, it's getting changed anyway). Never had an issue. Probably should check more but don't due to the cowling removal PIA.

 

[glacierbaze]

"PO thought it had 1000 hours on it, turns out the yamaha meter says they both have like 400. No idea how to tell if it is right or wrong."

Are you getting 400 hours off of a gauge, or from an engine readout? Didn't you get a printout of all hours@rpm range before buying the boat?

 

[RussGW270]

No, I did not get a readout. And before anyone gives me any flak for it, I can rebuild those engines myself if I have to. I am not worried about them. My concern was/is the hull and it appears to be fine. The engines appear to be fine and will have a very thorough inspection once I get the boat back.

Oh, when I say no idea how to tell if it is right or wrong, I do not have a meter for it. I also did not have a chance to do anything as I do not know a yamaha tech. Right now, no-one will give me the time of day because I plan to do the maintenance myself, so no money for them. My guess is I will need to buy an electronic reader if I can get one, but that is not on my list right now, maybe next month. For now, trying to do the obvious things till then.

Not trying to sound defensive, but the boat is purchased heh...I have videos of it running well, I started them up here at the house and they run smooth, I just have not torn i to them simply due to timing. ...and now rain, it seems lol

All will be well with the world and this boat will be ready for her maiden voyage by the end of the month, barring the top arriving heh.

Russ

 

[Fishtales]

With all the work you've done to this point, all that is needed is plug and water! Just don't sweat the details.