Need help from users. When mounting downriggers what is the best angle, 45 out from the corner or 90 out from the gunnel? Also, any other input appreciated, best brand, boom length etc.
Down rigger angle.
- Thread starter cdwood
- Start date
Get a good pair of electric downriggers. I had owned and used the same pair of electric Cannon Mag 10's for over 10 yrs without a problem. Occassionally minor repairs were required due to normal wear and tear especially on the terminal clips on the cables. Can't speak for other brands... these are all I ever used. The mag 10's were rated for salt water back then.. don't know if they still are. However... I only used them in salt water 2 or 3 times and hosed them down well at the end of the day. I mostly fished Lake Ontario and the Hudson River.
As far as angle goes... use a swivel base w/multiple stops and you can change the angle to suit your needs on any given day. I also used double rod holders on each rigger to cover multiple depths... you can use more but it can get labor intensive when you have a fish on.
One feature I loved... mine had the automatic "short-stop" feature. Once you have the rods clear with a fish on just flick(don't have to hold it) the toggle to bring up the ball & cable and it will stop once the cable clears the water leaving the ball just at the surface. That keeps the ball from swinging around while you are fighting the fish. But it's not in the water far enough to worry about the fish wrapping around it. This feature requires steel(stainless) cable with copper wire weaved in it(standard on mag-10)... I know a number of guys have replaced their steel cables with some type of heavy braided line to reduce drag at deeper depths and eliminate the cable "singing". I have fished to 90' with cable without a problem by just going to a heavier ball... not sure the braided line has enough advantage to trade off the "short-stop" feature. Probably depends on the condions and depths you usually fish in. You can also pay a lot more money for programable riggers which can make you life even easier... but the mag 10's handle all the basics real well.
Boom lengths... most are telescoping now. Mine were fixed at 4'. I don't think I would have used them much shorter. I think the telesoping booms range from 2' to over 4' so yu are pretty well covered length wise.
One other point... the swivel bases allow you to remove your riggers very easily just by losening one thumb knob... plus they have a special lock to prevent anyone from getting at that thumb knob. I always felt better taking mine off the boat. Also... use a backing plate when you mount the base. Don't rely on the rigger clutch(drag).
As far as angle goes... use a swivel base w/multiple stops and you can change the angle to suit your needs on any given day. I also used double rod holders on each rigger to cover multiple depths... you can use more but it can get labor intensive when you have a fish on.
One feature I loved... mine had the automatic "short-stop" feature. Once you have the rods clear with a fish on just flick(don't have to hold it) the toggle to bring up the ball & cable and it will stop once the cable clears the water leaving the ball just at the surface. That keeps the ball from swinging around while you are fighting the fish. But it's not in the water far enough to worry about the fish wrapping around it. This feature requires steel(stainless) cable with copper wire weaved in it(standard on mag-10)... I know a number of guys have replaced their steel cables with some type of heavy braided line to reduce drag at deeper depths and eliminate the cable "singing". I have fished to 90' with cable without a problem by just going to a heavier ball... not sure the braided line has enough advantage to trade off the "short-stop" feature. Probably depends on the condions and depths you usually fish in. You can also pay a lot more money for programable riggers which can make you life even easier... but the mag 10's handle all the basics real well.
Boom lengths... most are telescoping now. Mine were fixed at 4'. I don't think I would have used them much shorter. I think the telesoping booms range from 2' to over 4' so yu are pretty well covered length wise.
One other point... the swivel bases allow you to remove your riggers very easily just by losening one thumb knob... plus they have a special lock to prevent anyone from getting at that thumb knob. I always felt better taking mine off the boat. Also... use a backing plate when you mount the base. Don't rely on the rigger clutch(drag).
Have Penn 625s with 4' boom and swivel bases. They are mounted on the larger rod holder mounts so I can pop them in when live bait king fishing.
I run mine 45 degrees out on the rear rod holders to keep them away from the engines.
I run mine 45 degrees out on the rear rod holders to keep them away from the engines.
I have used the electronic Scotty for 3 years in only salt water and have had no problems. I wish i could say the same for a lot of my other electronic gear.
Considering the strain we normally fish 30-100ft with a 10lb ball in offshore conditions.....it handles everything very well.
I replaced the stainless cable with 100lb? braid and a 250lb mono end.
The Scotty has clips that you can position any where on the line for the auto stop and retrieve feature. I had a manual Cannon prior to this and i still have it just don't use it anymore.
I have mine on a custom built stainless bracket that has a gimble and slides into a perpindicular rod holder so only one stainless flush fitting on the boat.
Considering the strain we normally fish 30-100ft with a 10lb ball in offshore conditions.....it handles everything very well.
I replaced the stainless cable with 100lb? braid and a 250lb mono end.
The Scotty has clips that you can position any where on the line for the auto stop and retrieve feature. I had a manual Cannon prior to this and i still have it just don't use it anymore.
I have mine on a custom built stainless bracket that has a gimble and slides into a perpindicular rod holder so only one stainless flush fitting on the boat.
Not sure why you need to know what angle. Is it because you have a euro transom? I have a 226 which does not have a euro transom and I prefer mine straight back. One on each side of the boat. As previously suggested, use a swivel base. Especially if your not sure what angle to use.
Fishtales
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Hi,
I also use the Scotty strongarms. As recommeneded get the swivel mounts that are hard mounted on the gunnel. I wouldn't use a gimbal mount as the locking pin is the only thing in the rod holder that will hold the gimbal mount in place. If it ever lets loose the down rigger could jerk hard to aft. Unless your going to use them a lot, the manual ones are fine.
I also use the Scotty strongarms. As recommeneded get the swivel mounts that are hard mounted on the gunnel. I wouldn't use a gimbal mount as the locking pin is the only thing in the rod holder that will hold the gimbal mount in place. If it ever lets loose the down rigger could jerk hard to aft. Unless your going to use them a lot, the manual ones are fine.
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templ ... ISO-8859-1
Here is a swival base on Cabels'a website. Most are universally drilled to accept all makes of downriggers. There are also different heights available. On the Great Lakes most down riggers and rod holders are mounted on "tracks". You can also see these on the Cabela's site. The benefit of tracks is the ease of dismounting downriggers and adjusting the position front to back.
Here is a swival base on Cabels'a website. Most are universally drilled to accept all makes of downriggers. There are also different heights available. On the Great Lakes most down riggers and rod holders are mounted on "tracks". You can also see these on the Cabela's site. The benefit of tracks is the ease of dismounting downriggers and adjusting the position front to back.
on my 282 i have Scotty electric with 60" boom on swivel mounts.
the DRs are mounted about 10" ahead of the aft gunnel rod holders.
I swing the boom out perpendicular to the boat when trolling.
with a drift or current running a beam and doing a tight turn trolling is a slight concern of the lines possibly hitting one of the twin props. I plan to experiment with the limits of angles of the DR line with the boat on the trailer to see how much can be induced before the lines enter the prop danger zones. Single engine application should near eliminate lines in the prop.
the DRs are mounted about 10" ahead of the aft gunnel rod holders.
I swing the boom out perpendicular to the boat when trolling.
with a drift or current running a beam and doing a tight turn trolling is a slight concern of the lines possibly hitting one of the twin props. I plan to experiment with the limits of angles of the DR line with the boat on the trailer to see how much can be induced before the lines enter the prop danger zones. Single engine application should near eliminate lines in the prop.