Ethanol, Again

ahill

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Currently my main tank is about 50/50 reg gas & E10. My auxillary is all straight reg. gas. Startron is in each.
To avoid ethanol problems for as long as possible I am thinking of switching to my aux tank about 4-5 gallons form the dock and I would then purge the filters & motor of ethanol for the time the boat is idle.
Why shouldn't I do this?
 
Assuming you have twins, I would run 1 motor off each tank then when the aux tank is low fill with E10. Once both tanks are fully commishioned run them howevever you want (1 tank/motor, all aux, all main).
 
My concern is that ethanol begins to evaporate quickly. Some sites have said that in 90 days it is gone. As it has an octane rating of 100+ the resulting fuel is below an octane that will safely operate the motor.
I'm coming in to a period of less usage of the Grady and am concerned that when I do use it the fuel will be sub par, in addition to the damaging effects E10 has on the entire fuel system.
 
i can't stand it anymore, ALCOHOL has NO octane rating. it has no octane at all, it doesn't have heptane, iso butane, or iso hexane..hell it doesn't even have benzene in it. you could add water to your tank till it splits and decant of the water/alcohol (near tropic) mixture and have exactly what is coming out of the refinery blenders before the truck fill. which is where the alcohol is added. trust me on this because i work in the blenders at a refinery. we blend till the knock engines show us what the heptane count is. a heptane count of 7 is a octane count of 93 or high test. then alcohol is added at the truck rack to 10% by weight.
 
Add Stabil or any stablizer of choice, will keep the gas fine for the season since you don't use much.

Collecting condensate water in the gas tank of E10 is another issue.
 
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Ethanol has around 100 octane RATING it doesn't have iso octane but it's RATING is around 100.

Methanol is the corrosive alcohol, Ethanol is a good cleaner but not really corrosive (unless you're a liver or some rubber products).

A lot of sites just spout useless crap. If the Ethanol was gone after 90 days then why worry about phase separation during storing? If all of it did evaporate then you're left with gas the way it used to be.
 
YIKES!
Thanks for the Ethanol & octane lesson. The info related to me was that ethanol boosts the octane of fuel to an acceptable level & when it evaporates the octane level drops to sub par levels for engine operation.
If it has no octane enhancing properties and doesn't evaporate a major concern of many is ill founded.
I guess the short term problem is the fuel system cleansing with resultant residue and long term is phase separation & water accumulation.
 
E10 problems in a nutshell (the size of an F350 cowl).

1. Doesn't mix well with non ethanol fuel.
2. Cleans fuel systems unlike non-ethanol fuel, including the trucks that deliver it and the stations that dispense it. Newer boats should have cleaner fuel systems to begin with - so more of a problem for older boats.
3. Possible alcohol overdose at mixing facility. Good luck trying to prove it.
4. E10's alcohol has affinity to absorb moisture in air or other, like scott towels to a water spill. Use additive that combines water for burning and high turnover in fuel usage. Additives good for maintenance amounts of moisture, not gallons of it (read EZORB instructions).
5 High moisture in fuel can cause phase seperation where alcohol and water combine and seperate from gasoline, oil stays in gasoline. Not good for two stroke premix or VRO type systems. Existing fuel systems are prone to this since water will seperate and stay at bottom out of trouble year after year, until alcohol comes along. Loss of power at the minimum, new powerhead at the max.
6. Degrades faster than non-ethanol fuel, requiring use of stabilizers for low use end users - all year long not just off season.
7. Doesn't produce same amount of power per given gallon since alcohol is less powerful than gasoline, in same quantity. This is effectively a hidden price increase. Has nothing to do with octane rating. In cars, less mpgs reported.
8. Due to the processes of production where alcohol is added later, fuel production costs have increased.
9. Engine design and warranty good at 10% ethanol, not the higher mixes
like E30 that some state is suing over.
10. Disoolves resin in old fiberglass tanks in Bertrams and others, gums up valve stems, loss of RPM, engine rebuild for marina mechanics. Racors useless to stop resin pass through. New alum tank or glass tank relined before marina will put fuel in boat.
11. Can't think of anything else. It's plenty. Had enough?
 
mtbe, was an oxy for fuel, alcohol uses almost no oxygen to burn itself unlike gasoline which uses tons of oxygen. my understanding is ...in a given volume of fuel/air mixture the 10% ethanol actually allows more oxygen for the octane burn, hence "they" call it a oxygenator for gas. ethanol has a "squeeze" rating before detonation like fuel in the presence of 19-20% oxygen. lower btu's but that's why indy cars generate so much power on alcohol because they can dump it into the motor without flooding it. there's plenty of air for the burn esp if you supercharge it!!