Freedom 275 outrigger installation

[Steepfisher33]

I came here today for advice on installing outriggers on my father’s boat, a Freedom 275. He’s looking to purchase a kit centered on the Taco GS280 mount. My summer job as a kid was working at a boat yard, and I did assist on these sorts of installations over those years, and so my father has asked me to see about installing them when I visit this summer.

This isn’t my field anymore (nor ever really), so I’m doing research to support my case when I go to send my father to a professional. I haven’t been able to find a ton of information about installing outriggers on a Freedom 275 online. What I remember is that there are easy boats to install outriggers on, and there are difficult boats. Sometimes you just measure really well, drill the T-Top with a hole saw, seal everything up then bolt everything up in a two hour job. Sometimes you have to weld up the frame a ton to strengthen it, or sometimes you have to weld backing plates to the frame to take the actual weight before you drill the T-Top. (I guess T-top is the wrong word here, but I’m used to putting them on center consoles). Sometimes the top has to be removed for the welding, and that’s a huge PITA. Honestly I could do the first one just fine, I’d just have to look up the correct sealants and stuff. The welding is way out of my wheelhouse.

I can’t find good photos of our hard top on my phone, or where we would mount the outriggers at in photos online of the models either. However, the research I have done and my memory leads me to believe that this particular job requires the welding of backing plates. I do not recalling noticing that Grady White had pre-installed mounting points for them, and do not believe they are there. Is anyone able to advise me on if I’m correct about this?

Has anyone put outriggers on a Feedom 275? What’d you use? How’d it go? Does the top have to be removed? Would anyone be able to give me a guesstimate on the labor cost for the job I hope this is, having backing plates welded on and the outriggers installed? I know what the outrigger kit itself will cost. I know the cost will balloon if the top has to be removed.

 

[B-Shell]

There is a 275 across the slip from me and I will look at it today. Will try to send you a picture if I can my experiences the top on these freedoms have a thicker spot that is made for the outriggers. It’s a very simple installation process of just drilling the center hole and the four bolt holes.
I took mine apart this off-season to service them and there’s really not much to it. I would assume that the new outriggers come with a mounting template. You would want to use that from the bottom side to locate the holes because it would be much more difficult to reference the correct from the top.

 

[Fishtales]

The first thing to check is the hardtop frame. Are their supports already welded in? If so, I would approach it from the underside using the supports as the guide for hardtop rod holder as a guide and using a hole saw for the outrigger base and the proper size drill bit for the mounting bolts. I installed mine years ago but since the plates were not welded into the hardtop frame, I ended up drilling from the top and using tube spacers, wedges and a backing plate right on the hardtop itself just outside the hardtop frame.

Some tips I remember:
- Dry fit everything before sealing.
- I sealed inside the holes for the outrigger and mounting holes. The hardtop was balsa cored (it may be composite today). Either way, sealing to prevent water intrusion is critical.
- I used a Taco plastic wedge plate under the topside of the mount and the wedge was sealed to the hardtop. This kept the outrigger base level as there was a hardtop rolloff on my GW.
- I sealed the outrigger base on the topside of the wedge plate well too. The objective was to seal under the entire top of the base so no water could get in (basically creating a double seal for the outrigger top side.
- I used tube spacers to ensure the hardtop did not deflect at the bolt points when tightened. If you go this route, you have to drill the mounting holes larger in diameter to accept the plastic tube and select the tube spacer so your mounting bolts go through the inner diameter of the tube spacer. I also sealed these prior to installing into the hardtop. This is actually the first step of the installation when all the holes are drilled.
- I sealed the underside of the backing plate. I didn't seal the underside of the hardtop mount as this part rotates. So make sure you seal the hardtop mount hole well priot to installing the top of the outrigger base.

The biggest thing was prepping properly and drilling the first hole. Once you do this, your committed and can focus 100% on the install. I'll see if I can find my thread on this install.

 

[Fishtales]

Here's one.

Hardtop Thickness

Does anyone know the actual thickness of the Grady hardtops? edges vs. the raised section? I have a 2004 Gulfstream and am looking to add railings up there. Trying to figure out what type of hardware I should use, bolt through or screw into the core if it's thick enough. thanks in advance for...

www.greatgrady.com

 

[Fishtales]

Outrigger Install on Grady 232 Hardtop Weld or Backer Plate?

I've got a 2007 Grady White Gulfsteam 232 and am looking to mount Taco 1.5" Outriggers to the hardtop. Is the hardtop sturdy enough to support the outriggers with just backer plate? Or do I need to weld a plate in to the aluminum frame to support them? Thanks in advance.

www.greatgrady.com

 

[Fishtales]

Last one....

Hardtop Outriggers - Done

Hi, Finally got up the nads to install these. Need to drill a 3" hole in the hardtop and (4) 9/16" mounting holes. Had to measure 5X and drill once. I put in the Taco GS270s with 15' telescope poles and used the Taco premium rigging kit along with the line caddys. Bought everything on...

www.greatgrady.com

 

[Fishtales]

Sorry, one final thing. If you don't have the plates in and want them installed, you'll likely need to loosen and isolate from the fiberglass with something as the pipes will get hot and you'll need to remove any wiring inside the pipes which may or may not be a big PIA. GW runs some wiring through the hardtop frame pipes and you may also have some of your electronic cables in there too. I opted not to do all this in 2008. 16 years later, no issues with the hardtop.

 

[B-Shell]

Here are 3 pics. 1 is a 2023 275 with welded in plates on the frame. 2. Is an older 275 with the bases mounted with a backing plate inside the Hardtop frame. Sorry hard to see with the enclosure. 3. Is my 307 with same base as #1. If you have the plates already installed it should be pretty easy. If not it will be more of involved

 

[Steepfisher33]

Hey thanks to both of you for the help. I think my father’s is a 2020. I never noticed the mounting points in the top, but clearly I wasn’t looking. I want the job done right and I think that is going to include welding it in place and maybe taking the top apart because of wiring and electronics. The good news is that you have provided me with a very powerful case that if he’s going to install outriggers the boatyard should do it. The thought of melting the wires in the tubes to the electronics up top will scare him silly. The bad news is that if all the electronics and top have to be taken apart to do this right that this is indeed an expensive job. Was definitely a mistake to not do it back in the day.

 

[amj6135]

I just installed the Gemlux Delux bases on my 2018 Freedom 275. Super easy install with the welded in bases on the frame. Only trouble was the frame was in the way of the drill when drilling from the bottom on some of the holes.

 

[B-Shell]

Hey thanks to both of you for the help. I think my father’s is a 2020. I never noticed the mounting points in the top, but clearly I wasn’t looking. I want the job done right and I think that is going to include welding it in place and maybe taking the top apart because of wiring and electronics. The good news is that you have provided me with a very powerful case that if he’s going to install outriggers the boatyard should do it. The thought of melting the wires in the tubes to the electronics up top will scare him silly. The bad news is that if all the electronics and top have to be taken apart to do this right that this is indeed an expensive job. Was definitely a mistake to not do it back in the day.

It may not be as bad as you think. There are only the spreader lights and the anchor light there. Any radar, sunshade, etc is run up through the post in front of the helm, behind the windshield.
When I had my rear top post bases rewelded they were able to jack them up just enough to slip something underneath to not harm the top of the gunnel.
But when in doubt let it be someone professionals problem!

 

[Fishtales]

If the welded price is too much, you can do it without the plates. Taco will supply instructions. I went with the telescoping poles to keep them tight and out of the way when not in use. I was thinking this might reduce pressure on the bases but prob no difference. Good luck.