Gulfstream 232 wire run

[Zumytunes]

Hello! Im trying to run a transducer wire from the stbd aft corner up to the dash space.



It looks like the throttle cables & main wire run is on the stbd side but I cant see exactly how the run is, do I need to remove the fuel tank deck hatches? There are no access hatches on the floor on either side of the fuel tank hatches.



Any info is appreciated!

 

[SkunkBoat]

You should not have to remove fuel hatches to run cable.

I don't have that model and they vary by year but there is always a pvc wire chase(or two) running from below that open stern door forward to under the helm.

You can reach down and find it. there will be all of the cables to the motor in it.

Look down in the forward pie hole you should see the pvc pipe but you might not see the open end.




Look in cabin for a pie hole or a removeable panel to access under the dash.

Look at your owners manual it will show you exactly where the pvc pipes are

 

[Fishtales]

I was able to snake wires on both sides of my marlin. For the starboard, I used a wire snake and started at the helm kick planel. You can get to the area where your pic is taken from there and then should be able to get it aft through the rigging tubes (provided you have them).

 

[Zumytunes]

You should not have to remove fuel hatches to run cable.

I don't have that model and they vary by year but there is always a pvc wire chase(or two) running from below that open stern door forward to under the helm.

You can reach down and find it. there will be all of the cables to the motor in it.

Look down in the forward pie hole you should see the pvc pipe but you might not see the open end.

View attachment 25540


Look in cabin for a pie hole or a removeable panel to access under the dash.

Look at your owners manual it will show you exactly where the pvc pipes are

Thanks for the reply, the fuel tank fill & vent and fish hold drain/thru hull are behind that pie hi

You should not have to remove fuel hatches to run cable.

I don't have that model and they vary by year but there is always a pvc wire chase(or two) running from below that open stern door forward to under the helm.

You can reach down and find it. there will be all of the cables to the motor in it.

Look down in the forward pie hole you should see the pvc pipe but you might not see the open end.

View attachment 25540


Thanks for the reply the main tank fuel fill hose/vent & fish hold drain/thru hull are behind that pie hi

It seems pretty far to run a snake from the dash pie hi all the way to that aft corner access, ill give it a go! thanks again

 

[fishbadger]

I'll be running a ducer cable the same way you describe on my 2004 GW232 in the near future. Was fiddling around and ran some tuna cord as a pull thru. From the stb aft corner, that access plate on the stern side of the helm jump seat storage area is like a half-way point. Make that your first run, and then use it as a start for the second half. You won't have to remove anything serious there. From there, the next run will get you to the access plate in the cuddy on the forward side of the helm wall (lower left of the helm access, near the bench seat). It should go straight up to the electronics and your mfd from there. I think taking the collar off the transducer cable may help the process, or at least that's my plan, as it's huge (ps30). At least that's how I have it drawn up. I hope that all makes sense. Good luck!
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[Hookup1]

GW site has user manuals for your boat. My manual (different model) shows where the wire tubes are.

 

[seasick]

Your best approach is to remove the old transducer cable at the helm, tie a thin rope (drag line) to the end and then find where the transducer cable enters the rigging tube (wire chase) in the aft bilge area. Pull from the aft end and as you pull the old cable out you will pull the rope through. You may need to open a panel or access plate in the helm area so that you can 'work' the cable and rope into the rigging tube.
A trick that can really help is to not tie the rope to the connector itself but rather fold back a foot or so of the old and new cables, tape the connector to the cable and then tie the drag line to the end of the loop you formed. The transducer connector will be much less likely to get caught on something that way. That goes for both pulling out the old and pulling back in the new.
When you pull the new cable back through, attach another piece of rope to it and when done leave that rope in the rigging tube and hanging out at both ends. That will make any future pulls a lot easier.
If you will never reuse the old transducer, another option might be to cut the cable aft in the bilge, tie on the new cable with the loop I described and pull the old out from the helm which will pull the new cable in.
Remember that if the cable goes through the transom, into the bilge, make sure you put it through BEFORE you tie it to the drag line and pull it forward

 

[Hookup1]

I use a plastic mesh "Chinese finger" material for pulling cables. Slip about 2 feet over the connector, put a small tywrap on it at the connector and tape the open end to the cable. The other end can go over the old cable connector finished the same way. This gives you the smallest diameter and lets the old connector open up the pathway. The mesh grabs the cable and helps distribute the pulling force to the cable.

I prefer to use the old wire to pull the new wire. It follows the path of the old wire. If you pull out the old wire and use a snake to pull a pulling rope you are more likely to get wrapped around a wire in the tube. I have had success using a shop vac sucking a supermarket plastic shopping bag tied to it thru the tube. Tends to stay on top of everything in the tube giving you a clean pull. Great when you don't have something in there. Old pull ropes on my boat are all tangled up and useless.

https://www.amazon.com/100ft-Expandable-Braided-Sleeving-Sleeve/dp/B073YLYBJF/ref=sxin_25_ac_d_bv?ac_md=4-3-QWJvdmUgJDIw-ac_d_bv_bv_bv&crid=2JCCUCYN21SP3&cv_ct_cx=Braided%2BCable%2BSleeve&keywords=Braided%2BCable%2BSleeve&pd_rd_i=B074GPHW6B&pd_rd_r=a59a0012-5d72-4481-9860-b78047e0ea17&pd_rd_w=EjA3a&pd_rd_wg=DaCir&pf_rd_p=7ec10040-55fa-4e30-bac9-a8516bbcb1b1&pf_rd_r=ZYJBFMSVS238EAAGREZ8&qid=1650483662&sprefix=braided%2Bcable%2Bsleeve%2Caps%2C49&sr=1-4-f4ff053e-b1e8-4d31-8f95-56d755c862ba&th=1

 

[fishbadger]

I use a plastic mesh "Chinese finger" material for pulling cables. Slip about 2 feet over the connector, put a small tywrap on it at the connector and tape the open end to the cable. The other end can go over the old cable connector finished the same way. This gives you the smallest diameter and lets the old connector open up the pathway. The mesh grabs the cable and helps distribute the pulling force to the cable.

I prefer to use the old wire to pull the new wire. It follows the path of the old wire. If you pull out the old wire and use a snake to pull a pulling rope you are more likely to get wrapped around a wire in the tube. I have had success using a shop vac sucking a supermarket plastic shopping bag tied to it thru the tube. Tends to stay on top of everything in the tube giving you a clean pull. Great when you don't have something in there. Old pull ropes on my boat are all tangled up and useless.

https://www.amazon.com/100ft-Expandable-Braided-Sleeving-Sleeve/dp/B073YLYBJF/ref=sxin_25_ac_d_bv?ac_md=4-3-QWJvdmUgJDIw-ac_d_bv_bv_bv&crid=2JCCUCYN21SP3&cv_ct_cx=Braided%2BCable%2BSleeve&keywords=Braided%2BCable%2BSleeve&pd_rd_i=B074GPHW6B&pd_rd_r=a59a0012-5d72-4481-9860-b78047e0ea17&pd_rd_w=EjA3a&pd_rd_wg=DaCir&pf_rd_p=7ec10040-55fa-4e30-bac9-a8516bbcb1b1&pf_rd_r=ZYJBFMSVS238EAAGREZ8&qid=1650483662&sprefix=braided%2Bcable%2Bsleeve%2Caps%2C49&sr=1-4-f4ff053e-b1e8-4d31-8f95-56d755c862ba&th=1

That braided sleeving is a cool idea, thanks for that one. Quick question, if you're replacing a transducer, how do you use the old wire to pull the new wire without cutting the old wire at the 'ducer end? The pull out and the line-in go in opposite directions. Maybe I'm missing something, just trying to learn.
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[seasick]

in my earlier post I said
'If you will never reuse the old transducer, another option might be to cut the cable aft in the bilge, tie on the new cable with the loop I described and pull the old out from the helm which will pull the new cable in.'

 

[Hookup1]

That braided sleeving is a cool idea, thanks for that one. Quick question, if you're replacing a transducer, how do you use the old wire to pull the new wire without cutting the old wire at the 'ducer end? The pull out and the line-in go in opposite directions. Maybe I'm missing something, just trying to learn.
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You are correct. That won't work without cutting the transducer off. My last Garmin transducer has a connector about 3 feet from the transducer. You can separate the long piece and pull it back.

 

[Chessie246G]

connect a pc of paracord to the old transducer wire. pull it thru with the old wire, then use the paracord to pull the new transducer wire back thru. attach a second paracord to the new transducer wire and leave it there just incase you ever need to run something in the future.

 

[Chessie246G]

you can always run it under the gunnel as well.

 

[seasick]

you can always run it under the gunnel as well.

Oh NO.

 

[SkunkBoat]

Electrician's snake from the helm back to the lazarette thru the PVC pipe. tape the plug end of the xducer cable to the snake. Pull the snake.

There has to be a pipe along the stbd side.

 

[seasick]

The snaking can be hit and miss depending on how stuffed or empty the pvc cable chase is. I prefer cutting the old ducer cable aft and using that to pull a rope or the new transducer cable.

The fiberglass snakes are much better than the older metal electrician's snake.
The end you snake from ( aft or forward) may depend on which end is easier to see and access the open end of the rigging pipe.

 

[Zumytunes]

thanks for all the replies & informaiton guys, much appreciated. Unfortunately there is not an old tranducer cable to use but I did receive this below from GW below & will give it go now that I know where the conduit pipe starts

"Hello Justin,



At the helm there is a starboard rigging cover that can be removed and you should see the rigging tube from there that runs aft . This is how the wiring at the helm runs aft.
Hope this helps.

Kind Regards,



Carolyn Ray

Customer Relations

Grady White Boats

 

[seasick]

Yup, that panel has to be removed to get access to the cables to route them up into the control. The old cables will also most likely we tie wrapped to other cables. There should be a lot of stuff behind that panel. On some hulls there is an access plate in the cabin behind the helm that allows access to the rigging tube

 

[Rlloyd]

Zumy, I have a softcopy of the owner's manual for a 2003 Gulfstream, if that's of use to you. It shows (2) 3" PVC runs from the starboard side, up under the jumpseat/fishbox to the helm station. PM me if you'd like a copy of that manual.
Good luck.
Ron

 

[fishbadger]

I ran mine yesterday, it was a piece-a-cake, and I have a busy helm with gadgetry. There are some rigging tubes that go from the stb bilge to that mid-ship access plate (behind the storage access aft of the helm jump seat, the tube breaks there with access), and then to the cuddy, in front of the helm. From there it's straight up, you can cram your hand up into the helm compt. Mine was crowded, but I did manage to jam a big panoptix ducer cable plug through there. Good luck with yours.
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