Hardtop Thickness

phishead

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Does anyone know the actual thickness of the Grady hardtops? edges vs. the raised section? I have a 2004 Gulfstream and am looking to add railings up there. Trying to figure out what type of hardware I should use, bolt through or screw into the core if it's thick enough. thanks in advance for the info.
 

ocnslr

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I would venture to say that you should through-bolt any handrails, regardless of the thickness of the laminated top. Screws might be OK for light-weight or low-load installations, but handrails, antenna mounts, etc. do not meet that description.

JMHO,
Brian
 

phishead

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Thanks.
I just got the specs from Grady in case anyone else is interested.

The Hardtop on your '04 Gulfstream is between 3/4" and 7/8" thick.
 

Fishtales

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The hardtops are not as strong as you may suspect. They are balsa cored with glass on either side.
I would not screw into it. Thru bolt and if you can use backing plates to distribute the mounting force.
 

ocnslr

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Well, another bit regarding balsa cores and anything that might have a heavy load.

In addition to through-bolting, and using a backing plate, you might need to use compression sleeves, or spacers, around the bolts to prevent overcompression (i.e. crushing) of the top itself. These should be cut to a length just a bit less than the thickness of the top.

I did this when I mounted the Taco GrandSlams on our custom hardtop.

Brian
 

ocnslr

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phishead said:
cool. thanks Brian.
do you happen to have any photos of your setup?

All you can see on our installation is the welded-in plates on the underside, placed there by the fabricator, and the Taco mounts on top of the hardtop. You can't see the compression spacers that I inserted during assembly.

Are you looking for underside and topside photos? If so, PM me an email address and I will send you some pics. If I can't find them readily, I'll stop by the boat tomorrow and take them with my Evo.

Brian
 

Fishtales

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I agree with Brian. I used the "tube spacers" on my taco outrigger mounts, top wedge plates and bottom backing plates. I didn't weld the underside backing plates as I've seen many installations and my dealer does it all the time without provided the tube spacers and top/bottom plates are used. 3 years now - no issues.

Welding is the best if you want to take everything apart (wires to hardtop and any electronics out, removal of hardtop itself). Total PIA. I figured for all that work, screw it. Install without welding and if it failed, all I'm out is the cost of the top.

I have some pics in the gallery under marlin.
 

ocnslr

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Fishtales said:
Welding is the best if you want to take everything apart (wires to hardtop and any electronics out, removal of hardtop itself). Total PIA. I figured for all that work, screw it. Install without welding and if it failed, all I'm out is the cost of the top.

Oh, I agree completely - 100+% - with regard to disassembly of the hard top. We bought our Islander new in 2002 with a soft top, and had the hard top fabricated locally about six months later. During the fabrication they asked if I wanted pre-drilled pads for Taco outriggers welded to the frame - before the top was mounted or any wires run. When they said $50 I jumped on it, even though I had no plans for outriggers at that moment. Installed them a few yuears later, when we readied the boat for offshore fishing.

Brian
 

rcrudder

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While we are on hardtops, I have a 228G with the bimini. It is fine except when I want the extra rod holders that typically are welded to the back side of the hardtop. After getting several prices and considering the extra weight, I have decided against this. I get wonderful gas mileage on a 200 HPDI Yamaha and don't want to screw it up.

I saw a pic recently somewhere of a GW with a bimini and a radar arch. This might satisfy the rod holder need and provide a place to hang on to while underway and standing.

Anyone have this setup? How does it work and does anyone have any pics? I might also ask about the cost. The extra weight of an arch should not impact the performance to any great degree.
 

Fishtales

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Hi Guys,
While on the topic of hardtops, what is that new non-canvas, non fiberglass hard top on the small Grady's made out of? I don't like that stuff at all - reeks of "cheap"....
 

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Fishtales said:
I agree with Brian. I used the "tube spacers" on my taco outrigger mounts, top wedge plates and bottom backing plates. I didn't weld the underside backing plates as I've seen many installations and my dealer does it all the time without provided the tube spacers and top/bottom plates are used. 3 years now - no issues.

Welding is the best if you want to take everything apart (wires to hardtop and any electronics out, removal of hardtop itself). Total PIA. I figured for all that work, screw it. Install without welding and if it failed, all I'm out is the cost of the top.

I have some pics in the gallery under marlin.
me too
I agree with you