Having trouble identifying Yamaha multifunction gauge part number

[jbjitsu]

Anyone have any idea how to find the part number on this gauge?
It is paired with a 2004 Yamaha 200 hp 2 stroke SX200TRC

 

[seasick]

6Y5-8350T-D0-00
most likely

 

[jbjitsu]

thanks.

I just got new(used)boat. Ran for 3 hours no problems then the water detection light came on.

I checked the fuel filter on the engine and saw no water. I dropped the bowl, drained the fuel and reset the red indicating ring.

I could not clear the alarm- maybe button don't work properly, or I had the wrong version of tech manual!

The engine ran fine until I hit 2000 rpm then the buzzer alarm would sound.

There were no other engine alarms in, had great water flow. We fished for a while and let the engine cool.

After, we limped back to the slip I pulled the dash and found the water temp gauge had no wires going to it.

Were these relocated to the multifunction gauge? Can both gauges work in parallel?

I hate to have all alarms tied into one unit and would like redundant display

 

[Parthery]

I'm pretty sure that tach doesn't have a water-in-fuel indicator. If you are in limp mode, it's either due to overheating or low oil.

How much oil is in the tank and motor reservoirs?

 

[jbjitsu]

tank was 3/4 full and motor reservoir was between the lines on the tank
I will top off and do a test run

 

[seasick]

The temp sensors on the SX are in standard config, a sensor(2 of those I think) and a thermal switch. The thermal switch triggers the overheat alarm at a set temperature.
The temp sensors are used by the computer to adjust fuel air mixture as when cold.
If a separate temp analog gauge was installed, there would e another sensor and cables installed on the power head. So the fact that the gauge was not connected may not mean much if there is no separate sensor.
It sounds to me that you have an overheat condition especially if after you let the motor cool, it runs OK.
Could be a lot of things but first thing to do is to check the thermostats and hope one is stuck closed or partially closed
FYI, the 6Yc gauge does not display temperature, just alarms, over heat and oil conditions.

Does you motor gas filter have a wire connected to it?
When you say you reset the red ring, what does that mean? Was it up high before you drained the bowl? It should have slid back down when you emptied the bowl assumingit had water in it. Next time pour the contents into a small glass jar and let it sit for 30 minutes or so to see if water settles
to the bottom of the jar

 

[jbjitsu]

The temp sensors on the SX are in standard config, a sensor(2 of those I think) and a thermal switch. The thermal switch triggers the overheat alarm at a set temperature.
The temp sensors are used by the computer to adjust fuel air mixture as when cold.
If a separate temp analog gauge was installed, there would e another sensor and cables installed on the power head. So the fact that the gauge was not connected may not mean much if there is no separate sensor.
It sounds to me that you have an overheat condition especially if after you let the motor cool, it runs OK.
Could be a lot of things but first thing to do is to check the thermostats and hope one is stuck closed or partially closed
FYI, the 6Yc gauge does not display temperature, just alarms, over heat and oil conditions.

Does you motor gas filter have a wire connected to it?
When you say you reset the red ring, what does that mean? Was it up high before you drained the bowl? It should have slid back down when you emptied the bowl assumingit had water in it. Next time pour the contents into a small glass jar and let it sit for 30 minutes or so to see if water settles
to the bottom of the jar

thanks so much!

I have to go back and check the wiring on the gas filter.

The red ring fell off the split plastic slide tube and was below it in the bowl. I put it back on and carefully spread the the slide tube.

Do you know where i can get a wiring diagram or schematic layout for the controls?

I did let the gas sit for 1/2 an hour and there was no separation of gas and Water.

I will check the thermostats this week too

 

[wspitler]

If your engine fuel filter has a water sensor it will have wires coming out of the bottom of the bowl. Each time I change that filter (2006 F250s) I empty it, check for water, turn on the ignition key (do not start) and then turn the empty bowl upside down which slides the red ring and sets off the "water in the fuel" warning. Of course the wires must be attached to the sensor. As soon as I turn the filter back upright. the warning goes away. No need to reset. Don't forget to turn the ignition switch off after the test. I had a failure of the water sensor on my starboard engine, covered by warranty. Now I check them annually. If your ring comes out of the bowl, you probably need a new bowl and sensor.

 

[seasick]

The red ring has nothing to do with generating an alarm. It is just a visual indicator of there being some lighter fluid in the bowl. The water sensor electronics measures the conductivity of the liquid and that tells it if the tip is in gas or water.
The red ring falling off is somewhat common. Seems like as you have discovered that some new filters have smaller 'legs' that the originals.

Your alarm is not water. When you got the condition, did you happen to look at the gauge, the tach, on the bottom left for a dark bar under the symbol that looks like a thermometer? That is an overheat indication. At this point, I am not sure that is your problem. It may be spark related. Those motors run on 4 cylinders at low revs and all 6 at higher revs. I am not sure what rpms, the switchover occurs but if it is 2,000, there may be an ignition issue. Check you plugs first, especially the lower two.

 

[wspitler]

The red ring has nothing to do with generating an alarm. It is just a visual indicator of there being some lighter fluid in the bowl. The water sensor electronics measures the conductivity of the liquid and that tells it if the tip is in gas or water.
The red ring falling off is somewhat common. Seems like as you have discovered that some new filters have smaller 'legs' that the originals.

Your alarm is not water. When you got the condition, did you happen to look at the gauge, the tach, on the bottom left for a dark bar under the symbol that looks like a thermometer? That is an overheat indication. At this point, I am not sure that is your problem. It may be spark related. Those motors run on 4 cylinders at low revs and all 6 at higher revs. I am not sure what rpms, the switchover occurs but if it is 2,000, there may be an ignition issue. Check you plugs first, especially the lower two.

Maybe my filter bowl is different, but if the electronics measures conductivity to set off the alarm, why does the alarm sound when I turn my bowl upside down and the ring slides to the top of the bowl? I surmised that the ring was either magnetized or ferrous and it's movement was sensed by the pole that it slides on, setting off the alarm. How would turning the bowl inverted have it change it's sense of conductivity? Your explanation would seem pretty complex from a design standpoint since pure (no ions) water is nearly non-conductive and salt water is much more so and other liquids vary considerably. Anyway, I know how to test mine and it is repeatable.

 

[seasick]

Are there any wires connected to the filter housing?
. As to turning the bowl, I am not sure how you did that without the gas spilling out.

 

[seasick]

Maybe my filter bowl is different, but if the electronics measures conductivity to set off the alarm, why does the alarm sound when I turn my bowl upside down and the ring slides to the top of the bowl? I surmised that the ring was either magnetized or ferrous and it's movement was sensed by the pole that it slides on, setting off the alarm. How would turning the bowl inverted have it change it's sense of conductivity? Your explanation would seem pretty complex from a design standpoint since pure (no ions) water is nearly non-conductive and salt water is much more so and other liquids vary considerably. Anyway, I know how to test mine and it is repeatable.

On the 4 stroke I worked on, once the water alarm is tripped, the horn will not stop sounding until the water condition is cleared AND the ignition is cycled off and then on. That was a few years ago but I am 100% certain the ignition had to be cycled.

Regarding the motor is question, there is no electronic water sensor on that engine. The red ring is just a float that is lighter than water but heavier than gasoline. This is a SX200 2004 motor isn't it?
Also , you mentioned that originally the red ring had fallen off the filter ears and settled to the bottom of the bowl. In that instance, how could it have signaled an alarm if there were some sort of magnetic switch on the filter element?

 

[wspitler]

On the 4 stroke I worked on, once the water alarm is tripped, the horn will not stop sounding until the water condition is cleared AND the ignition is cycled off and then on. That was a few years ago but I am 100% certain the ignition had to be cycled.

Regarding the motor is question, there is no electronic water sensor on that engine. The red ring is just a float that is lighter than water but heavier than gasoline. This is a SX200 2004 motor isn't it?
Also , you mentioned that originally the red ring had fallen off the filter ears and settled to the bottom of the bowl. In that instance, how could it have signaled an alarm if there were some sort of magnetic switch on the filter element?

I didn't mention anything about a red ring falling off? That must have been jbjitsu. I test mine with the bowl empty. The sliding ring sets off the alarm. Also mine will not put the engine in limp mode, as I have had warnings underway with only the alarm. Mine did fail to alarm once, but I replaced it under warranty. Mine resets the alarm as soon as the ring falls to the bottom of the bowl by turning the empty bowl upright. No need to cycle the ignition. Apparently a totally different system on my F150 and F250s..

 

[jbjitsu]

Are there any wires connected to the filter housing?
. As to turning the bowl, I am not sure how you did that without the gas spilling out.

when we got back to the slip i put a rag under the fuel filter bowl and dumped the contents into a plastic container.
After listening to some great advice here, it seems to bean an oil tank issue.
I filled the on engine oil tank and will test run tomorrow.

 

[jbjitsu]

when we got back to the slip i put a rag under the fuel filter bowl and dumped the contents into a plastic container.
After listening to some great advice here, it seems to bean an oil tank issue.
I filled the on engine oil tank and will test run tomorrow.

no wires connected to the fuel supply bowl

 

[jbjitsu]

Anyone have any idea how to find the part number on this gauge?
It is paired with a 2004 Yamaha 200 hp 2 stroke SX200TRC

Does anyone know where I can find a wiring diagram for these gauges?

 

[seasick]

Does anyone know where I can find a wiring diagram for these gauges?

Wspilter,
sorry about the confusion. I have a habit of replying to a specific post and then commenting on several different posts in the thread.
I am going to do it again
The original poster commented about having to reset the ring that had dropped off.
My knowledge of the fuel system is based on a lot of 2 stroke diagnostics but limited 4 stroke so I guess as mentioned, the water alarm works differently'

On the SX motor, a n overheat alarm does not trigger the limp mode.
A low main tank oil condition will. If that goes away after sitting ( with the ignition on) and then the motor runs fine for a while, the issue is usually slow refill of the man oil tank from the remote (locker) oil tank. Most often that is due to a clogged oil screen on the back of the remote tank, and not as often a bad oil pump on that tank. It is easy to check if the tank is low. As soon as the condition occurs, turn off that ignition . Wait for the boat to stop, pull the cowling and look at the oil tank. If it is empty, turn on the ignition but do not start the motor and see if the tank refills. That could take a bit of time. If it does, the oil flow is low.

The wiring diagrams for all the engine and instrumentation are in the rigging manual for the motors but those manuals are somewhat specific to model year. I do not know of a specific web location where you cab download a specific year's rigging manual. That said, a large part of the info is common to many model years, especially the older gauges.

 

[seasick]

I found this link. It may hep

https://www.perfprotech.com/store/app_themes/ppt/images/product-specs/yamaha-rigging-single.pdf