Any one heard of hydraulic lock? I'm told it is a condition that when high seas are splashing the back of your motor when tilted down and not running. This water finds it's way up your exhaust and makes it into number six and five cylinder. You then try to start it and this is when there is a lot of extra pressure and then you have a problem with bent rods or piston and rings. Sounds like this happened while I was trolling with my 9.9 kicker and had my 225 tilted all the way down. Any one heard of this happening???
Hydraulic Lock ???
- Thread starter Double Eagle
- Start date
Yep. It's a very common issue with vehicles that do water crossings when 4-wheeling. Water gets sucked in through the intake and then won't compress like a fuel/air mixture when the piston comes up. End result...bent/broken stuff. It's an immediate failure.
That being said, I'm not sure that would be the case with your outboard. If it was in the down position, I would think any water that got in there would have drained.
Did it start and run for a short period, or did the starter spin it once and then lock up?
That being said, I'm not sure that would be the case with your outboard. If it was in the down position, I would think any water that got in there would have drained.
Did it start and run for a short period, or did the starter spin it once and then lock up?
plymouthgrady
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Can you manually turn the flywheel? To piggyback on gw204, if it did a half to a full revolution and stopped and won't turn by hand, you've got a bent something.-or seized.
New findings
After talking to the insurance company I called the Marina. He told me that he found that my block is cracked now. So we are looking at $4800.00 for a block. It will be interesting to see what the adjuster is going to say, then I will start jumping up and down!!!
On the way in from about ten miles out Sunday, as we were cruising around 3400 rpm it sounded like the muffler fell off. That is the best way to describe what happened. I shut it down right away, then I started it again. Didn't sound good so I shut it down and came in on my 9.9. What ever caused this problem didn't happen on Sunday, it had to happen or start to happen be for then!!!
After talking to the insurance company I called the Marina. He told me that he found that my block is cracked now. So we are looking at $4800.00 for a block. It will be interesting to see what the adjuster is going to say, then I will start jumping up and down!!!
On the way in from about ten miles out Sunday, as we were cruising around 3400 rpm it sounded like the muffler fell off. That is the best way to describe what happened. I shut it down right away, then I started it again. Didn't sound good so I shut it down and came in on my 9.9. What ever caused this problem didn't happen on Sunday, it had to happen or start to happen be for then!!!
If it was water ingestion as you suspect most warranties exclude the damage from warranty coverage.
only way to suck water is if the motor is mounted too low
cracked block, well theres your water intrusion
cracked block, well theres your water intrusion
I believe Double is talking about taking sea water back up the exhaust port, not via intake side.
This can occur when motor is off but not under the circumstances the member stated, IMHO.
Let's say you have one motor off and down, and throttle up the other motor full steam in reverse, much different situation.
This can occur when motor is off but not under the circumstances the member stated, IMHO.
Let's say you have one motor off and down, and throttle up the other motor full steam in reverse, much different situation.
Bob P, My guess would be that trolling with the waves, sometimes four plus footers. The 225 down with the steering rod hooked to the 9.9. In rough seas waves are hitting the back of the 225. If I have to tilt the 225 I loose my steering rod connection. May have to go to a electric steering system!
Motor too low?? It is mounted from the factory!!!! If it is too low it must be Grady's fault!!
Motor too low?? It is mounted from the factory!!!! If it is too low it must be Grady's fault!!
Double Eagle said:
well i have a 228, with a 9.9 and we fish seas over 5 ft daily here
cowling always goes under at least 1 time while fishing, never had a problem
it must b a 4 stroke thing
u never said which grady
Double, did your mechanic say from what end of the motor water entered?
The cowling air intake is designed to trap water and let air pass, to an extent. And since the motor was off, and the throttle intake plenum is up front(?), the water would have to fill the engine bay up to that height of te bottom of the intake runner. That's a lot of water.
I don't think white water will do it, have to submerge head at least partially in solid water for a while, or sooner if the cowl seal is no good.
I've taken breaking waves up the back and to just over the top of my HPDIs, and was worried, killed engines rght away. When I returned to the dock and pulled the cowls, not a drop of water came in.
The cowling seal on my old Johhnies sucked, I has a high water line on the block at the rear, took out the T&T box more than once. I Ihad to seal it with silicone.
You ought to see salt deposit stains on block somewhere if that much water entered engine bay.
The cowling air intake is designed to trap water and let air pass, to an extent. And since the motor was off, and the throttle intake plenum is up front(?), the water would have to fill the engine bay up to that height of te bottom of the intake runner. That's a lot of water.
I don't think white water will do it, have to submerge head at least partially in solid water for a while, or sooner if the cowl seal is no good.
I've taken breaking waves up the back and to just over the top of my HPDIs, and was worried, killed engines rght away. When I returned to the dock and pulled the cowls, not a drop of water came in.
The cowling seal on my old Johhnies sucked, I has a high water line on the block at the rear, took out the T&T box more than once. I Ihad to seal it with silicone.
You ought to see salt deposit stains on block somewhere if that much water entered engine bay.
I don't think that water in the cylinder will cause the block to crack. perhaps a bent/broken rod or a busted piston. If none of the above are broken, I suspect the crack was due to something else.
It is possible that if the motor was really hot (really really hot) and then got cold water on it, a crack is possible. Since you heard a loud noise 'like a muffler let go' something on the exhaust side cracked.
It is possible that if the motor was really hot (really really hot) and then got cold water on it, a crack is possible. Since you heard a loud noise 'like a muffler let go' something on the exhaust side cracked.
Re: New findings
If you were cruising at 3400 it wasn't hydro-locked. I can't see the starter having enough torque to crack the block if a cylinder had some water in it. Hell it's an outboard if it can't take being splashed what good is it? Which motor is it? If it's a 2 stroke, water may have gotten in the 2 oil and wrecked havoc. For a 4 stroke something had to let go like a rod bolt, or one cylinder went real lean (for 2 or 4 stroke), 3400 isn't that high of RPM.
Double Eagle said:
If you were cruising at 3400 it wasn't hydro-locked. I can't see the starter having enough torque to crack the block if a cylinder had some water in it. Hell it's an outboard if it can't take being splashed what good is it? Which motor is it? If it's a 2 stroke, water may have gotten in the 2 oil and wrecked havoc. For a 4 stroke something had to let go like a rod bolt, or one cylinder went real lean (for 2 or 4 stroke), 3400 isn't that high of RPM.
The Good News Guys !!!!!!!!!
The good news is that a $6200.00 repair is going to cost me $502.00. My insurance is covering the damage and I'm not going to ask them why!!! They are mailing me a check!!! I still want to know what happened. When I first got my Grady new in 1997 I trolled with it for around 6 years. At that time I was having trouble with it shutting down when the hammer was down, seemed like it was running out of gas. Took it to a Grady dealer and they said that the cylinder walls were coked. They said that meant that there was a carbon build up and it needed honed and ringed and that would fix the problem. Well guess what they were wrong. I went back three weeks in a row until the problem was solved. There was a gas line from the fuel tank that was collapsing inside and shutting down the fuel flow. I heard there was a recall on the hose. So sense all of that work was done I have put 176 hours on the 225. Not many hours for this block thing to happen. My concern is what if any thing did I do wrong. How do I treat my 225 when I get it back so it last for as long as it can!!! It is a 225 Saltwater series 2 stroke
The good news is that a $6200.00 repair is going to cost me $502.00. My insurance is covering the damage and I'm not going to ask them why!!! They are mailing me a check!!! I still want to know what happened. When I first got my Grady new in 1997 I trolled with it for around 6 years. At that time I was having trouble with it shutting down when the hammer was down, seemed like it was running out of gas. Took it to a Grady dealer and they said that the cylinder walls were coked. They said that meant that there was a carbon build up and it needed honed and ringed and that would fix the problem. Well guess what they were wrong. I went back three weeks in a row until the problem was solved. There was a gas line from the fuel tank that was collapsing inside and shutting down the fuel flow. I heard there was a recall on the hose. So sense all of that work was done I have put 176 hours on the 225. Not many hours for this block thing to happen. My concern is what if any thing did I do wrong. How do I treat my 225 when I get it back so it last for as long as it can!!! It is a 225 Saltwater series 2 stroke
first see if it mounted to low
second always check the water separators
third oil and water do not mix
let us know how it blew up
second always check the water separators
third oil and water do not mix
let us know how it blew up
plymouthgrady
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From the way you describe it, it sounds very similar to a situation I had. I was cruising and engine made a not-so-pleasant noise before rrrr, rrrring to a stop and the flywheel would not manually turn.
Among other things, the main issue was that one of the cylinders top dead center (TDC) was off. Basically, the piston was not at the top of the cylinder before the spark. It could only take the stress for so long before failure. To quote my mechanic, "Mike it looks like a hand grenade went off under there." Cracked block-assisted by the rod going through it.
Among other things, the main issue was that one of the cylinders top dead center (TDC) was off. Basically, the piston was not at the top of the cylinder before the spark. It could only take the stress for so long before failure. To quote my mechanic, "Mike it looks like a hand grenade went off under there." Cracked block-assisted by the rod going through it.
Picked boat up today!!!
Picked my boat up today. I looked at my old block and seen the three cracks at the bottom of the left cylinder. He told me that I should just be careful and watch where the waves are be for I crank over my motor. Make sure that the motor is not down in a wave and I am up on top of one. We also added 1 1/2 gal of oil to my gas for break in. I am just lucky that my insurance picked up all but $500.00 of the tab. Total bill was $6200.00
Picked my boat up today. I looked at my old block and seen the three cracks at the bottom of the left cylinder. He told me that I should just be careful and watch where the waves are be for I crank over my motor. Make sure that the motor is not down in a wave and I am up on top of one. We also added 1 1/2 gal of oil to my gas for break in. I am just lucky that my insurance picked up all but $500.00 of the tab. Total bill was $6200.00